do any of you have experience bedding an original sks stock? all id like to do is fill up everything that's a void with epoxy based product such as minwax high performance filler. I dont think i have much to loose considering im thinking of going to a tapco soon either way. Im just if any of you have tried something like that. Thanks for the Advice!
bedding my sks stock
- Thread starter animalamidon
- Start date
In most cases, pretty much. Unless it is obviously loose. But a blob of epoxy putty, some Pam and five minutes, there isn't much on TV anyway.
Speaking of which, I just worked out that "House" is a pun on "Holmes". Took me a year to clue in, Sherlock. Mind you, I think I have Creutzfeldt–Jakob disease now.
I have done it and I found it quite worthwhile. My major reason for this work was to eliminate the vertical stringing I was getting. It also helped with the horizontal stringing as well of course.
Viewed from the right
Viewed from the left
The cut out on the left side of the stock is for the Weaver scope mount.
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Also bed the under side of the reciever were it touches the top of the stock and all the way down behind the trigger bar. Then there is 1 more area. It's the very front of the stock were the metal flap touches the front of the stock that has a whole for the cleaning rod. When these 3 areas are completley "movement free" and with a proper trigger job you will then see how great of a deal these SkS's can be 
Then it will be time for mounting a optic!
Then it will be time for mounting a optic!
fat tony
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Also bed the under side of the reciever were it touches the top of the stock and all the way down behind the trigger bar. Then there is 1 more area. It's the very front of the stock were the metal flap touches the front of the stock that has a whole for the cleaning rod. When these 3 areas are completley "movement free" and with a proper trigger job you will then see how great of a deal these SkS's can be
Then it will be time for mounting a optic!
Satain, it seems like this should be a 'multi - step' bedding job, that is, bed in one area, then wait for that to cure, then go onto the next one. I have visions of a sea of JB Weld engulfing my SKS.
No screws. I used a sharp chisel to remove the dirty/oiled/cosmolined wood to allow the epoxy to bond to clean wood.
As for epoxy I use Brownell's Accraglas. It works for me.
Also bed the under side of the reciever were it touches the top of the stock and all the way down behind the trigger bar. Then there is 1 more area. It's the very front of the stock were the metal flap touches the front of the stock that has a whole for the cleaning rod. When these 3 areas are completley "movement free" and with a proper trigger job you will then see how great of a deal these SkS's can be
Then it will be time for mounting a optic!
I thought my photos showed that the receiver was bedded on the sides and bottom. Perhaps the images aren't clear.
I'm not sure what you mean about "all the way down behind the trigger bar". If you mean the post that the trigger group clips on to, then wouldn't bedding behind that lock the receiver into the stock permanently as the receiver rotates out and does not lift straight out as in a conventional rifle action? Do you have any photos of what you mean?
I question the advantage of bedding the ferrule at the end of the fore stock. The barrel gets very hot after only a few rounds and because of that I would think that it should be floated. What are your groups like since you've bedded it there? Any photos of the bedding?
CT
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Bedding that trigger bar when done properly, will not stick the rifle to the stock. Try blue 3m tape and white lithium spray grease. Now when this is done it act's as an anchor for not only the stock but also for the trigger. Especially with all that metal crashing back wards to reset the trigger. Plus it adds to the repeatability of trigger pull & if the trigger spring in the stock doesn't provide enough downwards pressure to the trigger group I usually replace it to and use the same bedding compound to keep it in place.
As for the ferrule. I wish we could weld it to the barrel but I am afraid that's as smart as putting your M14 inside of a dishwasher. The idea of making this as tight of a fit as possible comes down to barrel harmonics. As repeatability is the key to accuracy.
I get on average when using my posp scope 2.5 to 3 inches at a 100 meters with my Marstar SkS between Norinco silver box, Czech surplus & the list goes on.
I wasn't worried about permanently adhering the receiver to the stock. Kiwi neutral works wonders.
After a bit of head scratching (and sleep) I think I understand what you've done. Pack the bedding into the area where the rear of the trigger bar and stock meet. When the receiver is inserted, it will push out any excessive compound. In effect the trigger bar is only bearing/bedded closest to the trigger.
Thanks for the clarification. When I can get about again I'll take a look at your suggestion.
CT
I don't see the point to bedding the barrel on the SKS given the bayonet on the end of the berrel has the ability to shake around and it itself is not bedded. This would seriously impact the harmonics of the barrel and "repeatability" of shots. Although I'm sure it is helpful to a degree, the result may not warrant the effort.
We should get some befor/after pics of the groupings to convince the skeptics this is a worthwhile modification.
We should get some befor/after pics of the groupings to convince the skeptics this is a worthwhile modification.
fat tony
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Yeah, it's probably a complete waste of time, I might also consider making a trip to the gunsmiths mandatory after every range trip - make sure it's done 'right' by a professional.
You are kidding, right? The SKS "harmonic balancer" is the first thing you bed.
A guy on "The Internets" said the bayonet was removable, I take that with a grain of corrosive potassium chloride.
give me a day or so
give me a day or so. I have to get a sd to usb adaptor. but the the dimensions are diameter .375, length .992, aperture about .170 . I just made it out of a piece of crap mild steel. I turned it drilled it and countersunk it in one chucking and threw a knurl on to make it look like the guy who made actualy knew something. I stuck it in the mill an put a flat on it and drilled and tapped the two holes. easy and cheap just like the owner
give me a day or so. I have to get a sd to usb adaptor. but the the dimensions are diameter .375, length .992, aperture about .170 . I just made it out of a piece of crap mild steel. I turned it drilled it and countersunk it in one chucking and threw a knurl on to make it look like the guy who made actualy knew something. I stuck it in the mill an put a flat on it and drilled and tapped the two holes. easy and cheap just like the owner
