Bedding your scope base...

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ghostntheshell

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Good day folks.

I have recently begun a search to find great rings and a base for my Remington 700 5r.
The search led me to many rings and bases - and Ken Farrell products have caught my attention.

Of course I learned that these bases have a groove specifically for bedding the base. To be honest - I wasn't even aware people bedded their bases until I read that. I have since researched and understand why it *can* be a good idea in certain situations.

My question is this:

Who here beds their scope bases?
If you have - share your technique! Or recommend me a competent gun smith in the GTA (a little east / west / north of GTA is ok).
 
It's easy to do one piece base... paste wax on the action and two screws... clean the base with acetone... I mix up the epoxy (I use Acra-Glas Gel) and place a coat on the base where it will contact the action... using the front hole and the rear hole and two screws, very lightly tighten the screws just enough to hold the base in place without any stress, tap the base forward lightly, clean off excess epoxy, let it cure. The next day remove it and drill the screw holes clear and install the base good and snug. Blue Loctite can be used on the screw threads.
 
I've done it numerous times, the first time was amazingly flawless. The second time I got careless, and forgot to apply the release or plug the screw holes... So I didn't so much bed the scope base as glue it on. It was a .308 and stayed perfectly attached for a few years!

Currently, I use almost the exact same technique as Dennis (Guntech), except I don't do the "tap forward" thing, not yet anyway. It's a great trick and I'll use it from now on!
I plug the action holes with melted wax (warm the gun with a heatgun to ensure a good fill) and I use my SynLube 531 as the release.

The only drawback to the Farrell mounts (which I get from Mystic Precision) is that they are (generally) quite tall. Don't buy your expensive rings until you have the base mounted and figure what you're going to need.
 
The green Locktite act as a bedding agent filling as all the inegality when you tight your bases diseapear making the pressure after torquing all equal, some rifles of mine showned a good improvement in accuracy after i did it... JP.
 
Release agent? SynLube 531. This is the stuff that Ian Robertson uses, and if you know anyone that uses more release agent than that guy, pass along his recommendation too!
 
In light of Splatter's recommendation for SynLube 531... While I can assure you that I haven't bedded more than Mr. Robertson (actions, anyway), if you are looking for something that you might have on your shelf... Hornady One-Shot spray case lube works well too as a release agent. Bedded scope rails and rifle actions several times using this. Another that many recommend is Kiwi neutral shoe polish, but I have no experience with it.
 
Instructions came with my Farrel base stating it may be necessary to bed the base if... It has a test of tightening one screw, then another and checking for light(indicating gap) between receiver and base: This base wasn't for the round receiver of a Remington 700, but for a flat Tikka T3. If light showed between the gap the base should be bedded. I had hardly a sliver so did not bother, but since I have the rifle disassembled for fitting a custom stock, I might do so. Bedding receiver to stock, I used a film of Vaseline: A common product with but another use. (flame suit on for impending avalanche of double entendres and jokes) I used black shoe polish once, as it was the only kind I had when bedding my Rem700, and the gun blue did NOT agree too well with the polish - as a release agent it worked well, but some of the blue was released as well. Has anyone tried spray on silicone lube? It dries after application, so the contours would be exact if the lubricant prevented adhesion.
 
New Camper said:
...Bedding receiver to stock, I used a film of Vaseline: A common product with but another use....
Click to expand...

While making sure that the barrelled action releases from the stock is a vital function of the release compound, it's no the only factor in deciding if the release is well suited to the task.
The reason that guys use things like a thin coat of paste-type floor wax, or neutral shoe polish, and then buff it to a shine, is because the coating is almost immeasurably thin and uniform, and they get a good release. You should never see evidence of the release. You should see the tiniest machining marks and imperfections mirrored in the bedding compound.
I think it would be pretty hard to use Vaseline to that effect.
I've used JPW, and PVA as release agents, and I've used PAM cooking spray too.
The Synlube stuff was tough to find, and at a bit over 15 bux for the spray can, it was kind of expensive; but I think it was totally worth it.
 
Splatter said:
While making sure that the barrelled action releases from the stock is a vital function of the release compound, it's no the only factor in deciding if the release is well suited to the task.
The reason that guys use things like a thin coat of paste-type floor wax, or neutral shoe polish, and then buff it to a shine, is because the coating is almost immeasurably thin and uniform, and they get a good release. You should never see evidence of the release. You should see the tiniest machining marks and imperfections mirrored in the bedding compound.
I think it would be pretty hard to use Vaseline to that effect.
I've used JPW, and PVA as release agents, and I've used PAM cooking spray too.
The Synlube stuff was tough to find, and at a bit over 15 bux for the spray can, it was kind of expensive; but I think it was totally worth it.
Click to expand...

Yes, I understand that any substance applied liberally will likely form pockets much like a lubricated case shoulder will dimple when resized and Vaseline being thicker will have a greater tendency to do so even in small quantities. I used it a few weeks ago for my T3 stock, and as you mentioned, the machining imperfections are noted in the JB weld bedding I made. I am still new to this process, and for my benefit and any others as well, I am glad you pointed this factor out.

A couple problems I consider/noticed with bedding is getting the right amount of compound present so as not to leave air pockets(I tend to do this, not wanting to force the stuff through cracks in the packing I use to protect important areas) and not to put on so much that hydraulic pressure might keep the receiver from setting low into the stock where it should, and avoiding big gobs oozing out everywhere/wasting: Of course JB weld isn't expensive so that concern should be a low priority. Maybe a hint of OCD there, trying to get the right amount to avoid having to remove the excess. Next time around, I will examine a sacrificial piece with the spray silicone lubricant for release and if effective, then on a receiver.
 
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