Best Moose Caliber

JasonG61 said:
What do you all think the best Moose hunting caliber is? I am thinking of going with a .300 Ultramag..thoughts?
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That 300 UM will certainly do the trick.
My question is how many times can you hit a 10" plate at say 100 yds. standing, or with a rest.
It's where you hit them that counts.
I had a 338 WM and then graduated to a 30-06 and then a 308 W. No more moose hunting for me a few years back now.

Try the 30-06 first and then graduate to something bigger if you need it.
 
I've seen more moose killed by my family members with 308 Win than any other cartridge. Using 180gr Partitions and Accubonds. We also use 300 WM for those who are able to shoot it well but it's just to stretch the range across a swamp or meadow. The increased close range energy is totally unnecessary. I've used 200gr ELD-X but you have to be very careful with shot placement at close range. Rib cage only. Accubonds are more versatile.
 
last time I checked moose don't wear armour.. plenty taken with 3006, 308, 7mm08 3030 and way back even 243. Just sayin, But f you shoot a 300 ultra consistently well then rock on.
 
Threads like this one are always fun and entertaining. Bullet placement is paramount (accuracy) followed by penetration & expansion. Two dozen or more cartridges out there will do the job.
 
First I think you need to figure out what type of hunt you do, plan to do or even could do. Rd hunting, sitting on a clear cut, pipe line or field that you drive to, then your 9 lb+, 26" barreled, hard to find ammo for 300 ultra mag sniper gun may be your perfect weapon and caliber. If you like to call them close, hunt the thick stuff, get away from the rds and masses or even climb a mnt and hunt one where the sheep live I say there are far better calibers and guns. If you only hunt the thick stuff, sit in a tree, and watch close then any fat thumper cartridge like the 45-70, 444, 450 or even a 30-30 will be just fine. I say why limit yourself or hinder yourself with any of the 2 options above. Get a shorter barreled light easy to pack short action cartridge in any one of a dozen calibers already mentioned and your playing field is wide open. Shot dozens of moose, they are not hard to put down and generally stand around for a second shot, die relatively quick and right where they were hit if you stay calm, quiet and don't spook them after their lungs are obliviated.

Of course any choice of weapon and caliber assumes you will have a good bullet, be able to put it where and when its needed and practiced enough that your weapon is an extension of your arm. That means NOT afraid of the shoulder punch, gun weight and length. Also remember that you can practice X3 as much with a 308 vice a 300 Ultra mag for the same amount spent.

All moose hunting is fun, not as much left in BC now, how long will there be any GOS? Also something to consider.

MJB
 
I have shot over 40 moose with a Remington model 700 BDL deluxe rifle in 7mm magnum with internal magazine.
THE BULLET I USED WAS A 160 GRAIN SIERRA BOATTAIL
I now use a Savage 99 in 308 with a detachable magazine..
BULLET I USE IS A 160 GRAIN HORNADY BOATTAIL.
I also have a new Savage 7mm Magnum, with accutrigger and accustock, it has a detachable magazine.
STILL USE 160 GRAIN SIERRAS BOATTAIL.
I have not had the chance to use the new 7mm.
 
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7.62x54r, get the S&B 180gr, there is not a living animal on the earth that will withstand it, and the mosin is basic but unbeatable.
 
Always about chambering.

A better question what be, what chambering shouldn't I use under "x" circumstances when hunting for moose.

What is the maximum distance you can comfortably hit a milk jug ? standing, prone? sitting? rested?

Then a choice of appropriate chambering can be selected.

If you are going to be shooting no further than 200 yards then there isn't much that won't work.

If you want and are competent 100% of the time to 500 then that changes things.

And where did the OP go?
 
here is an easy formula.

Hornady Index of Terminal Standards (HITS)

HITS = Bullet Weight2 / Bullet Diameter2 / 7000 x Impact Velocity / 100
Alternatively, recognizing that some of the terms constitute the sectional density:

HITS = Bullet Weight x Sectional Density x Impact Velocity / 100
Having calculated this value, one then compares the score to four categories:

500 or Below -- Small game weighing less than 50 lbs
501 to 900 -- Medium game with a body weight of 50 to 300 lbs (e.g., deer, black bear and caribou)
901 to 1500 -- Large and heavy, but non-dangerous game weighing from 300 to 2000 lbs (e.g., elk, moose, African plains game, bison, etc)
1501 or Above -- Dangerous game of any weight (including, for example, big cats)
 
Russian 54R, ya!

It's the 45 vs 40, vs 9mm discussion all over again. A fast medium weight bullet like 150 grainers, a bit slower but heavier 180 grainers, or heavy 300-400 grain heavyweights bullets but alot slower? I think a big part of the equasion is the rifle weight. Plus it's already been mentioned that you should choose a rifle you shoot best.

I like a 340 grain 45-70 bullet in a Marlin 1895 lever gun.
 
I agree that shot placement is number one but I don’t go by the rule that you can use anything, just shoot them in the right spot. Hunting is not perfect and field shots are rarely perfect. I want to use a cartridge and bullet that will work if things go wrong not a combo that will only work when everything is perfect.

For example, my last bull moose I shot with my .375 Ruger (not that you need a .375 for moose) at 350 yards with a 250gr TTSX. He was quartering towards me a bit more than I thought and I hit directly in the shoulder joint. The bullet smashed the joint, went through the lungs and was recovered on the off side.
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Would a guy shooting a .270 Win with some Federal blue box or a 6.5 Creedmoor with an ELDX or Berger been OK? I don’t know.
 
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