Browning BLR in ROUGH shape.

So I took the darn thing apart today... I see why people say not to.

I'm glad I did, there was literal mud inside of this POS. Wtf. Guy must of used it as a paddle in the marsh.

What's crazy to me is that they dont have timing marks on the spur gears... would help with assembly, even at the factory.

I will try to figure that out so its easier in the future to clean.

I stuck the bore scope in to try to see how the barrel is threaded into the extension, but still have no idea.

I'm definitely worried about the bore picking up a lot of copper and creating higher pressures after 20 rounds.
 
So I took the darn thing apart today... I see why people say not to.

I'm glad I did, there was literal mud inside of this POS. Wtf. Guy must of used it as a paddle in the marsh.

What's crazy to me is that they dont have timing marks on the spur gears... would help with assembly, even at the factory.

I will try to figure that out so its easier in the future to clean.

I stuck the bore scope in to try to see how the barrel is threaded into the extension, but still have no idea.

I'm definitely worried about the bore picking up a lot of copper and creating higher pressures after 20 rounds.
Hunterhenderson has a pile of experience with the Browning BLR platform rifles. He may be of assistance in the timing or reassembly of these challenging designs.....:)
 
As someone who has a lot of old milsurps i woulx deal with it by:
1- full cleaning. Take it apart and clean everything
2- shoot it to see how it performs

If you get a good result, then think about rust bluing the finishing loss and refinishing the wood

If you get lucky acetone will remove the finish. Its the best option b/c it will not impact the wood at all. But nake sure you do it outside as it is highly flammible.
 
I've seen that video, the guy talks way too much.

He doesn't put the gear in properly, he just keeps trying it. Nothing wrong with that.

But he never mentions that the spur gear has two different counts of teeth. So you can't just put it in and rotate it until it fits, because if you go 180 with it, it will engage the rack very similar to the other side, but about .020" different. You cant really feel it, but there would be play. Kind of scary. I'm going to use a dial and double check the bolt is seated all the way forward after assembly.

It's actually crazy, what a dumb design. All it needs are two dots like a timing set on an engine... that would solve everything.
 
Hunterhenderson has a pile of experience with the Browning BLR platform rifles. He may be of assistance in the timing or reassembly of these challenging designs.....:)
They are pretty finicky for sure, there certainly are some tricks to it, I duct tape the bolt in when you are installing the gears, if you dont it will almost always be out a few teeth and wont shoot
 
They are pretty finicky for sure, there certainly are some tricks to it, I duct tape the bolt in when you are installing the gears, if you dont it will almost always be out a few teeth and wont shoot

Can you think of a reason why having timing marks would not work?

Duct Taping the bolt shut is a good idea, masking tape is for people working on other people's guns lol.
 
Well, I've been looking into .358 win and I think I'm even more up in arms about what to do with this thing.

But, looking at bullets that deflect less if hitting twigs, the .358 wins every day... so I don't know!!!!!!!
Over the years numerous of the more serious gunwriters have set up tests where they fired bullets of different calibers and weights through brush to test deflection. To summarize those articles, about the only thing that meaningfully minimizes deflection after hitting branches and twigs is a shotgun slug, and maybe a nod of the head to something like a .54 caliber muzzle loader of around the same weight.

Bill Leeper rebarelled a new .308 Winchester to .358 Winchester for my left handed wife to use. Everything she's shot with that Barnes 180 grain out to around 300 yards has ended up in the freezer. The "brush rifle" smear is just that when you look at what a .358 can push those 180 grain bullets at. If I had any qualms arise about the reliability of the 180 grain bullets, Barnes 200 grain TTSX would do just fine.

Zzzzz.JPG

The other plus for the .35 calibers is that buying bulk lead pistol bullets and sending them out the barrel with a few grains of powder at about 1000 fps can amount to a lot of fun recreational shooting for very little money.


5-46.jpg
 
Over the years numerous of the more serious gunwriters have set up tests where they fired bullets of different calibers and weights through brush to test deflection. To summarize those articles, about the only thing that meaningfully minimizes deflection after hitting branches and twigs is a shotgun slug, and maybe a nod of the head to something like a .54 caliber muzzle loader of around the same weight.

Bill Leeper rebarelled a new .308 Winchester to .358 Winchester for my left handed wife to use. Everything she's shot with that Barnes 180 grain out to around 300 yards has ended up in the freezer. The "brush rifle" smear is just that when you look at what a .358 can push those 180 grain bullets at. If I had any qualms arise about the reliability of the 180 grain bullets, Barnes 200 grain TTSX would do just fine.

View attachment 1083470

The other plus for the .35 calibers is that buying bulk lead pistol bullets and sending them out the barrel with a few grains of powder at about 1000 fps can amount to a lot of fun recreational shooting for very little money.


View attachment 1083468

.358 win is a cool cartridge.
I'm definitely thinking about it.

That picture cant be right. A 180gn bullet out of a. 358 win at 2930fps?
 
What about a .358 makes a good deer/bear gun over a 7mm-08?
Practically speaking .......... Nothing. Mostly just boils down to preference given proper bullets are employed.

The last moose I shot was with a 7x57 with 160gr NPs. It died toot sweet. I would expect the same results with my 358Win.
 
Ok so the MF that owned this thing before is diabolical.

He or she... RED LOCTITED the hammer pin. Holy cow. Because both sides are slotted I stabbed myself a bunch with a flat blade screwdriver... It was so tight, I had to take two flat 1/4 inch bits, and pinch them in the vise with the gun/screw in between. Then I used two 1/4" wrenches to loosen. FML. that was the hardest thing.
 
On the bright side, I'm pretty sure timing these things is easy. They are designed differently then the first Gen1 Blr which were a pain. These are a breeze. A member was kind to send me the service manual. But it was the old one. Wondering why they changed the rack size on the new ones, and the little spacer's use, I figured out the purpose of the spacer and the fact that the rack is only 1/3 the width of the gap in the action. Compared to the gen1 blr which is the full width. After I shoot this thing either today or tomorrow, I will try to post pictures of the timing procedure. Its honestly easy. I think they dont have timing marks because of wear. As they wear, you have to adjust the timing.
 
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