Browning Hi-Power Grease or Oil?

Not so. Many guns, especially semi-autos require lubrication of moving parts and surfaces. The problem is excess lube which attracts dirt and grit.

Put 10,000 rds thru' a gun without lube and compare it to one that has been properly lubed. Which do you think will have better tolerances?
 
I have found the red Automatic Transmission Fluid is a good cheap and slippery oil. Powder solvents and CLP just don't do it for my guns. I have also found that BHPs work, 'the wetter the better'. So oil the slide and rails, and on the various cross pins. Expect some to splash off the first few shots too.

What I've also found from practical experience, once the gun has burnt on a layer of soot, leave it alone. Goose the barrel for large grains of unburnt powder or gross fouling, but otherwise, the gun is probably gonna survive. The old military rule of a light coat of oil is wrong. Browning handguns, like Browning machine guns, absolutely need oil to function. The well-trained and observant soldier will know when and how to keep those firearms ready for action. Once you realize dry is the enemy of motion with a BHP, you'll be on your way.

And, to dredge up a paraphrase from another thread, no machine ever suffered from running the wrong oil, but no machine survives without any oil.
 
I've read that the US soldiers in the sandbox could not get enough CLP through the system, so it was often included in care packages from home.

I use grease on the op rod slot on the receiver of my Garand and the shoulders of the locking lugs. If US GIs had to do that in combat, they must have picked up no end of dirt and grit, especially in the Pacific.
 
Sharps '74 said:
I've read that the US soldiers in the sandbox could not get enough CLP through the system, so it was often included in care packages from home.

I use grease on the op rod slot on the receiver of my Garand and the shoulders of the locking lugs. If US GIs had to do that in combat, they must have picked up no end of dirt and grit, especially in the Pacific.
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Yup lots of CLP in the desert or the gun gets compacted with poo dust. I always tell the guys, oily mud beats dry sand. Tried every thing over there from dry graphite to fancy gun oil's and CLP worked every time "on small arms"


Thin grease will would fine for Civi ranges and last way longer than oil, but you should clean your gun after every range trip any ways.

if you oil the rails, outside of the barrel and guide rod. you will never have any issues.
 
When my guns first start showing the signs of malfunctioning, they get cleaned. I saw too many good guns get ruined in the Army through over zealous, stupid cleaning which accelerated wear and did nothing good.
 
Sharps '74 said:
When my guns first start showing the signs of malfunctioning, they get cleaned. I saw too many good guns get ruined in the Army through over zealous, stupid cleaning which accelerated wear and did nothing good.
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Well there's "army" cleaning and than there's proper cleaning.

I don't use steel wool or oven cleaner on my guns :p
 
I'm a fan of a very light application of Lithium Die Makers Grease on the slides and barrel bushings. It keeps strippers in dies running for 10 s of thousands of cycles before requiring PMs; that's good enough for me.
 
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