- Location
- Nova Scotia
That receiver is impressive. Cost much?
May need to hit him up to do my RRB..
May need to hit him up to do my RRB..
Building a Classic Sporting rifle
- Thread starter Evanguy
- Start date
well we don't deal in money. we deal in hours. he did say it was 10 hours work but I had left the old bluing and didn't prep it with a 400 grit finish,(honestly had no plans on getting it cch, just happened to have it with me one day i was talking to him) so if i had glass beaded it and then hit it with 400 it would have been about 8 hours work.
i dont know what he charges for an hour for labor. so i honestly have no idea of the cost.
https://oldguns.ca/restoration-services
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EDIT- dec 10- i was talking to oskar tonight. This receiver would have cost 375$.
He has 3 size cruscibles 5",10" and 15" 300$, 350$, 375$.
25$ for prep work. Total cost listed.
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so you can see in the pics the areas that torque up to each other. green tightens into the green area first then the red is threaded to meet the red
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Appreciate this very much, Evanguy. It's all clear to me now, and the pictures confirm what I understood tiriaq to say. My problem envisioning it was that I have never adapted a barrel to a receiver with an inner face like that. On receivers like mine, that do not have the inner face, there's nothing to torque the barrel up to if you don't machine a step in the barrel. On the actions that have it, your system is clearly the answer. I'm impressed - and thanks!
i got the bolt polished and the handle flattened off and moved ahead. ill try a stock on the receiver and see how it fits/feels. its not as subtle as i like, i may bent it back a little, But it does look good in the receiver so i may just not compare it to he LEC bolt and leave it.
the pics make it look all scratched to crap (should have used cell phone opposed to D3500) but in hand its very smooth and looks good it has a 600grit with oil rub, after bead blasting and 400 grit.
i have a friend who will lend me a real nice factory lee speed stock i can borrow for copying. if anyone knows a guy who can copy a stock please pm me. even just a rough copy with no finish work.
the pics make it look all scratched to crap (should have used cell phone opposed to D3500) but in hand its very smooth and looks good it has a 600grit with oil rub, after bead blasting and 400 grit.
i have a friend who will lend me a real nice factory lee speed stock i can borrow for copying. if anyone knows a guy who can copy a stock please pm me. even just a rough copy with no finish work.
Maybe a bit to the rear would be better, although with a stock in place you will have a better idea of the feel. The finish you are getting is excellent.
I've used PJ's Radocy rust bluing (hot water process) with pleasing results. You might want to experiment with it, see if it gives the results you would like.
I've used PJ's Radocy rust bluing (hot water process) with pleasing results. You might want to experiment with it, see if it gives the results you would like.
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Yeah i moved it back a little. It fits with the line on the butt stock socket better. More like the lec bolt.
I have a little more polish work to do still. Ill post some more pics of it tonight when i get home and its fully polished
Thanks il check out PJ's Radocy hot water bluing. Sounds interesting and looks like it should give the results im looking for.
I have a little more polish work to do still. Ill post some more pics of it tonight when i get home and its fully polished
Thanks il check out PJ's Radocy hot water bluing. Sounds interesting and looks like it should give the results im looking for.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Bolt knob - I have noticed how different the "Enfield's" were compared to mausers from about that time?? Mausers tended to have straight bolts - significant hand movement from shooting position, to grasping and operating the bolt and then back to the shooting position - the "Enfield's" just seem to start and end up at much more "ergonomic" position - had read that bolt knob position (plus "#### on close") also contributed to the relatively high rate of fire that was possible with the No. 1's, that simply could not be matched with the mausers - especially the straight bolt handle ones. Do not know if it is important on the OP's rifle, but have also read how the knob can be "too close" to trigger on hard recoiling rifles. I do not doubt at all that there is a "cosmetic" element, as well, but I am pretty much ignorant about those kind of nuances. OP will explain better...
I think that the straight bolt on the Mauser (and the Mosin) was intended purposely as insurance against cold weather, dirty, and high stress use. It is easy to use with mittens and not as likely to freeze or stick shut, and it can be 'slapped' open and closed. The bent bolt on Mauser sporting rifles of the same era as the military rifles was not an add-on, it was original; the straight bolt was chosen on purpose.
You're right. In fact, the dog-leg bolt handle of the P14 family is result of the design requirement that the relationship between bolt knob and trigger had to approximate that of the Lee-Enfield, in keeping with then-British Army policy of maintaining high rates of aimed fire. Ditto the insistence on ####-on-close. The British firmly believed that both these items were instrumental in rapid cycling. The "too close" was also a reference to the P14: Its' frequent post-service use as the basis for many big-bore rifles, such as .416 and .458, combined with big hands and the manner in which some people handled a rifle, could result in a rap on the knuckle. Personally, I've never had it happen, but everyone has his own style. I've never heard of it being an issue with the Lee-Enfield, probably because it wasn't commonly used as a donor action for "elephant guns".
Well in my case it purely for looks. It sets it apart from the more common lee enfield bolt with the round knob.
The lee enfield bolt design is really good. All of them had the same style other then the carbine,they were used on horse back with scabbards. So they had the bold handle flattened to the receiver with the knob cut down flat and sweped ahead as to not catch anything. Also a few other mods not related to the receiver to aid in this.
All the other lee metford and enfields have a very well designed bolt and handle. Infact you never let the bolt go while firing quickly. Its at a position that you grip the bolt with your thumb and pointer finger and work the trigger with your middle finger
I like the look of the LEC bolts my self, even more so with no safety and where i dont need it to be fast i can go with looks over function.
Im building a 500 jeffery on a p14 action. Im very excited about the dog lag bolt handle on that. Seems very usable and robust. Less style more practical i think.
The lee enfield bolt design is really good. All of them had the same style other then the carbine,they were used on horse back with scabbards. So they had the bold handle flattened to the receiver with the knob cut down flat and sweped ahead as to not catch anything. Also a few other mods not related to the receiver to aid in this.
All the other lee metford and enfields have a very well designed bolt and handle. Infact you never let the bolt go while firing quickly. Its at a position that you grip the bolt with your thumb and pointer finger and work the trigger with your middle finger
I like the look of the LEC bolts my self, even more so with no safety and where i dont need it to be fast i can go with looks over function.
Im building a 500 jeffery on a p14 action. Im very excited about the dog lag bolt handle on that. Seems very usable and robust. Less style more practical i think.
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A fellow P14 man - welcome to the club, brother! I personally like the dog-leg; gives them character and it's distinctive. It falls right to my hand every time and I've never bashed my knuckle.
I never knew the rationale for the Lee-Enfield forward sweep, but now that you've explained it, I can understand it completely. Makes perfect sense.
ive been polishing parts of this rifle, im not sure why exactly. maybe its because i want to get stuff done on it but until i get some wood or start blueing the parts im running out of things to do.
the mag is being made by someone else, all the machining work is done. i guess i could start to figure out what im doing for sights. other then that its the wood and to put on finish on the parts in the white and i can start assembling this rifle.
i tired to use a stock from lee speed i have here but the receiver didnt want to fit and i didnt want to do anything to the wood to make it fit so that was a bust, although the wood is pretty beat up anyway so it wouldn't have done it justice
here is the dust cover. im not sure how to get the little stains out of the metal. i dont want to polish it any more and risk loosing the crispness of the engraving but it would be sweet if the stains were gone. oh well the bluing will cover them i hope.
i don't mind the pits although i may get them filled then polish it back off, im not sure yet. opinions would be nice on that one. or should i skip the "bsa" engraved one and just use a mint condition mill spec one with no engraving but no pitting at all
the mag is being made by someone else, all the machining work is done. i guess i could start to figure out what im doing for sights. other then that its the wood and to put on finish on the parts in the white and i can start assembling this rifle.
i tired to use a stock from lee speed i have here but the receiver didnt want to fit and i didnt want to do anything to the wood to make it fit so that was a bust, although the wood is pretty beat up anyway so it wouldn't have done it justice
here is the dust cover. im not sure how to get the little stains out of the metal. i dont want to polish it any more and risk loosing the crispness of the engraving but it would be sweet if the stains were gone. oh well the bluing will cover them i hope.
i don't mind the pits although i may get them filled then polish it back off, im not sure yet. opinions would be nice on that one. or should i skip the "bsa" engraved one and just use a mint condition mill spec one with no engraving but no pitting at all
Looks damn good. I have seen some videos of refining worn engraving using a laser engraver on a model 92 Winchester. Was pretty much a scan of the old tang stamp and it was touched up using a computer. The tang was then put on a table jig and the laser zapped it up. Looked perfect after. Although this was a video. But sure was slick.
I was thinking about contacting vulcan buy i decided to go another way.
I eneded up sending the cocking piece, dust cover and trigger guard to get CCH.
After looking at the rifle in a spoter stock and loads of gogle pics. i think it could use more cch and still look fine. Lots of the receiver is covered in wood.
Ill leave the bolt and bolt head polished. But i plan to turn the bolt handle up at the ball. More like a butterknife mauser handle. Ill get pics when im done.
So now for metal work i still need the mag, sights, mid barrel sling mount. And for finishes i need to get the barel and sleeve blued. I should get on those this weekend
I eneded up sending the cocking piece, dust cover and trigger guard to get CCH.
After looking at the rifle in a spoter stock and loads of gogle pics. i think it could use more cch and still look fine. Lots of the receiver is covered in wood.
Ill leave the bolt and bolt head polished. But i plan to turn the bolt handle up at the ball. More like a butterknife mauser handle. Ill get pics when im done.
So now for metal work i still need the mag, sights, mid barrel sling mount. And for finishes i need to get the barel and sleeve blued. I should get on those this weekend
Well in my case it purely for looks. It sets it apart from the more common lee enfield bolt with the round knob.
The lee enfield bolt design is really good. All of them had the same style other then the carbine,they were used on horse back with scabbards. So they had the bold handle flattened to the receiver with the knob cut down flat and sweped ahead as to not catch anything. Also a few other mods not related to the receiver to aid in this.
All the other lee metford and enfields have a very well designed bolt and handle. Infact you never let the bolt go while firing quickly. Its at a position that you grip the bolt with your thumb and pointer finger and work the trigger with your middle finger
I like the look of the LEC bolts my self, even more so with no safety and where i dont need it to be fast i can go with looks over function.
Im building a 500 jeffery on a p14 action. Im very excited about the dog lag bolt handle on that. Seems very usable and robust. Less style more practical i think.
Don’t move the bolt handle ahead for looks.
It is moved ahead in that pic you quoted.
I dont mean move it ahead as much as i mean sweep the handle ahead down near the ball.
