I put a small piece of foam in the bottom of my hammer and now it does not deform the Bullets , works for me
Collet and pliers type damage the bullets; Inertia does not. Inertia is a bit of a pain if you have a lot to do.
Collet and pliers type damage the bullets; Inertia does not. Inertia is a bit of a pain if you have a lot to do.
What are you all using for bullet pullers, press mounted collets or hammer style kinetic pullers? I’ve been buying the last of the gear I need and a bullet pullers is on the list, I can see one coming in handy for a few reasons. I have two single stage presses at my disposal but can’t decide which way to go, any recommendations?
The collet bullet pullers work well with sporting ammunition unless you run into crimped ammo with bullets having deep crimping grooves. They are less useful with cast rifle bullets for a similar reason, and useless for many handgun bullets, so how useful the collet puller will be for you, depends upon the style of bullets you intend to pull. If you intend to pull a high volume of surplus rifle ammo, for Mexican Match where a different style of bullet replaces the FMJ, not only do heavy crimps have to be overcome, but also occasionally some sort of sealing compound as well. The collet won't hold the bullet tight enough to pull them. What I use for these are a pair of plyer style wire strippers/crimpers, the ones that have wide handles that will lie flat on top of the press, and have the wire strippers between the handles. These bite into the FMJs and allow them to be pulled with little damage to the bullet, typically it leaves a couple of small indents in the jacket, but if you aren't squeezing the handles tight enough, it'll strip copper from the bullet when you lower the ram. The FMJs can be loaded with low velocity loads for small game. Pulling apart pistol ammo is best done with a kinetic puller, but with heavily crimped light weight bullets, it can take a lot of pounding. I generally consider a kinetic puller a consumable item, so I don't worry about damaging the striking surface and get faster results striking a steel plate, anvil, or concrete than I do a wood block.
Any suggestions or tips for pulling 38 special flush seated wadcutters? I was given them and have no desire to try them out, even though I trust the loader and the load.
I would second the comment on striking something other than a block of wood. I bought my puller for making 303 from 7.62x54r, and it couldn't overcome the sealant on the bullet when hitting wood. I use a ~6x6x2" brick. Sits on the ground by the reloading bench when not in use.
The best surface there is to strike a hammer type bullet puller against is a LEAD BLOCK. It won't damage the hammer and won't move when it's struck. I have an RCBS kinetic puller with an aluminum handle, that has pulled thousands of rounds of everything from 8x63 Swede to 5.56Nato as well as surplus 9x19, and the list goes on, with the same hammer.
I was using a hardwood block before and went through a couple of hammers.
For most ammo, there is enough room on the straight wall, under the ogive to get a decent grip on the bullet with a collet type puller.
About the only thing that will pull these is the hammer-type kinetic puller. Flush seated wad cutters don't leave anything for a collet to grab.