Bullet pullers?

I like the Hornady collet style, works slick

I still use an RCBS inertia hammer for pulling apart a small amount
 
I have both types of pullers. and rcbs one with different collets,
and a steel one that I made with 3/4" steel tubing.
I just welded a handle on it and us a shelholder to hold the bullet.
I only use this one when I can't use the rcbs one.
I use a big birch log to hit on.
 
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Collet and pliers type damage the bullets; Inertia does not. Inertia is a bit of a pain if you have a lot to do.
 
Collet and pliers type damage the bullets; Inertia does not. Inertia is a bit of a pain if you have a lot to do.

It depends a lot on the bullet profile and how tight it is in the case. A bullet with a lot of taper doesn't allow the collet to get a good grip on the bullet for pulling and over tightening can lead to bullet deformation. Bullets with a profile that allow the collet to get a good grip without over tightening will not get damaged.
I used a kinetic puller for years and when it wore out I got the RCBS collet puller and I've been very happy with it.
 
What are you all using for bullet pullers, press mounted collets or hammer style kinetic pullers? I’ve been buying the last of the gear I need and a bullet pullers is on the list, I can see one coming in handy for a few reasons. I have two single stage presses at my disposal but can’t decide which way to go, any recommendations?

If you Reload long enough you will find you want to have both.
Myself I have the RCBS collet Tool which works well when needed. Unfortunately the Collets are now a hellufalot more expensive then they used to be. Then there is the Kinetic Hammer which frankly I don't like but sometimes there is no other way around it. In this Tool I prefer to use regular Shell holders instead the Mickey Mouse Aluminum gripper.

Cheers
 
The collet bullet pullers work well with sporting ammunition unless you run into crimped ammo with bullets having deep crimping grooves. They are less useful with cast rifle bullets for a similar reason, and useless for many handgun bullets, so how useful the collet puller will be for you, depends upon the style of bullets you intend to pull. If you intend to pull a high volume of surplus rifle ammo, for Mexican Match where a different style of bullet replaces the FMJ, not only do heavy crimps have to be overcome, but also occasionally some sort of sealing compound as well. The collet won't hold the bullet tight enough to pull them. What I use for these are a pair of plyer style wire strippers/crimpers, the ones that have wide handles that will lie flat on top of the press, and have the wire strippers between the handles. These bite into the FMJs and allow them to be pulled with little damage to the bullet, typically it leaves a couple of small indents in the jacket, but if you aren't squeezing the handles tight enough, it'll strip copper from the bullet when you lower the ram. The FMJs can be loaded with low velocity loads for small game. Pulling apart pistol ammo is best done with a kinetic puller, but with heavily crimped light weight bullets, it can take a lot of pounding. I generally consider a kinetic puller a consumable item, so I don't worry about damaging the striking surface and get faster results striking a steel plate, anvil, or concrete than I do a wood block.

I would second the comment on striking something other than a block of wood. I bought my puller for making 303 from 7.62x54r, and it couldn't overcome the sealant on the bullet when hitting wood. I use a ~6x6x2" brick. Sits on the ground by the reloading bench when not in use.
 
Any suggestions or tips for pulling 38 special flush seated wadcutters? I was given them and have no desire to try them out, even though I trust the loader and the load.
 
Any suggestions or tips for pulling 38 special flush seated wadcutters? I was given them and have no desire to try them out, even though I trust the loader and the load.

About the only thing that will pull these is the hammer-type kinetic puller. Flush seated wad cutters don't leave anything for a collet to grab.
 
I would second the comment on striking something other than a block of wood. I bought my puller for making 303 from 7.62x54r, and it couldn't overcome the sealant on the bullet when hitting wood. I use a ~6x6x2" brick. Sits on the ground by the reloading bench when not in use.

The best surface there is to strike a hammer type bullet puller against is a LEAD BLOCK. It won't damage the hammer and won't move when it's struck. I have an RCBS kinetic puller with an aluminum handle, that has pulled thousands of rounds of everything from 8x63 Swede to 5.56Nato as well as surplus 9x19, and the list goes on, with the same hammer.

I was using a hardwood block before and went through a couple of hammers.

For most ammo, there is enough room on the straight wall, under the ogive to get a decent grip on the bullet with a collet type puller.
 
The best surface there is to strike a hammer type bullet puller against is a LEAD BLOCK. It won't damage the hammer and won't move when it's struck. I have an RCBS kinetic puller with an aluminum handle, that has pulled thousands of rounds of everything from 8x63 Swede to 5.56Nato as well as surplus 9x19, and the list goes on, with the same hammer.

I was using a hardwood block before and went through a couple of hammers.

For most ammo, there is enough room on the straight wall, under the ogive to get a decent grip on the bullet with a collet type puller.

I have a piece of beech lumber 2 1/4 x 3 clamped to the leg of my bench with one end on the floor, and the other long enough to be a couple inches taller than the bench. That works the very best for me; less strikes and less vibration that the concrete floor. Being long, I think it gives a bit of rebound that helps move the bullet.
 
After smacking the 38 spl full wadcutter loads until my arm hurt and only managing to pull 7 bullets, I gave up on the idea! I think I will just shoot them!
 
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