Buy once cry once, the quality reloading set for beginners

C10

C10

Regular
Rating - 100%
2   0   0
Location
East coast
Hey Gun Nutz,
I’m looking to get into reloading, the goal is precision. I’m looking to piece together a reloading kit that’s versatile and good quality. Id like to hear from you, if you were starting over and only wanted to buy the gear once what would you buy and where from? Here is the list that I’m looking at.
Frankford arsenal m-press
Frankford arsenal intellidropper
RCBS two die set for each calibre
Frankford arsenal priming tool
Frankford arsenal case trim and prep centre
Imperial sizing wax
Frankford arsenal funnel kit
Amazon callipers
Amazon reloading tray
Hornady oal gauge
Hornady modified cases
Hornady headspace gauge kit
Hornady bullet comparator kit
Amazon bullet puller

Any advice is appreciated!
Cheers,
C10
 
I would get Lee 3 or 4 die sets for rifles.

Their sizing/de priming dies let you easily tap out stuck cases and the decapping pin using a punch. This will avoid much suffering.

Also Lee carbide pistol dies are the most affordable around.

Buy quality caliper from Canadian tire even some mastercraft ones you can warranty in person. Measuring cartridge overall length is invaluable.

The gauges are all kinda useless frankly.
 
I had these questions several months ago, received a lot of offers, advises and tips.
The Forum was a great help.
For a die set and trimming/measuring I decided for "buy ones cry ones", and I got myself everything from LEE Wilson.
Presses and measuring scales I collected from second hand.
My interest is a single cal Win 308 only.
 
  • Like
Reactions: C10
LEE precision manufactures some pretty fair tooling at a decent price point, but having said that I would be a bit careful about spending money on their progressive presses unless you are patient and deliberate around mechanical equipment. the lee classic single station press is stout and is capable of accepting 1-1/4x12 dies for the 50 bmg and standard 7/8x14 dies with the adapter in place for standard dies. whatever die sets you choose for your rifles, add a lee neck collet die for each because those neck collet dies do a very good job of getting excellent concentricity of the case neck. somebody mentioned 10-10 scale, they are really good if they have been taken care of and RCBS in oroville will send you a kit to refresh it if you are OCD. a small electric scale can be used for speed but check it once in a while with the 10-10. the only other comment I will make is check out the new auto trickler v4 before spending your money on a powder dispenser. reloading is mentally rewarding in many ways if you are patient and methodical.... and like throwing money at powder, primers, and bullets.
 
I’ve used a few different presses. Redding Boss or T7 is high quality.

Lee pistol caliber dies are my preferred. Lyman dies are really nice.

Sometimes the tools make the difference but the process is more important IMO.
 
  • Like
Reactions: C10
My views are not shared by many , but they have been proven time and again. It seems that many people think that the utmost in precision instruments ( read expensive as well) are absolutely essential for the best accuracy
The truth is however , unless you are a master class shooter shooting at 1,000 meters and beyond , you mostly will not benefit from the most expensive and precise tools .
This is because the biggest variable in the whole setup is the human element.
I have done extensive tests to prove this out and the results have always been the same , regardless of the shooter.
Good hand loading habits and practices with economical gear will trump inexperience with the most expensive gear every time .
Lee has a deluxe die set that works great. And the RCBS FL dies also work well.
A decent beam scale like a 10-10 , and a good powder thrower like the RCBS will save hundreds of dollars for a new reloader until they get familiar with proper hand loading practices.
Cat
 
Last edited:
barsik and iron cat both gave excellent advice,
learning technique and good habits first.
The precision part will follow mastering fundamentals.
 
  • Like
Reactions: C10
I started with a progressive Lee press and it was “easy” for me but I am mechanically inclined. That said I do have a drawer or crushed cases and mulligans to pull apart from my self-learning curve.

However anyone can do it, I think people overwhelm themselves with 3d printed automated ads ons creating more moving things to go wrong and stop the process.

A 4 stage is great for pistol/lever cartridges especially for crimping which is critical on lever guns or feeding fussy semi auto pistols.

The best approach is to load one case at a time and dial in each of the 4 stages and do that for a while one cartridge at a time before getting to the bliss of having 4 stations go at once.

Most people’s hang ups are threading the die too deep into the press, crushing cases, or crimping cases while bullet seating (Lee dies do it simultaneously with bullet seating die) or over flaring case mouths on powder drop stage. (This will make sense later)

People could easily get overwhelmed once you add on brass feeders and bullet feeders that add the number of things to go wrong and make it hard to stop the process and make an adjustment to a die or something. The brass feeding arm can’t be stopped with a half stroke of the press lever and brass could spill out as one eg.

Invest in a quality scale and check powder charges often. Powder charge is the most dangerous aspevt especially if using high density/low volume powder like Titegroup.

I’d recommend starting with VV N110/N320/N340 (cartridge depending) or low density powders that will over flow cases if double charged. (Having a 38 special go off like 357mag was a wake for me that could’ve gone terrible)

Above all stick to he rules and books. Don’t extrapolate powder charges as pressure changes aren’t linear. Compare across different manuals and publishes free data say from Speer or VV or hogdon online sources.

Have fun, don’t die!
 
  • Like
Reactions: C10
Most people buy all this stuff and then realize reloading is extremely time consuming. Good luck paying your mortgage once you start buying amp annealers, tricklers and the latest thing some reloader channel tells you is awesome. Are you single? You will be if you spend all your time in a reloading room lol.
 
AfroCowboy said:
I started with a progressive Lee press and it was “easy” for me but I am mechanically inclined. That said I do have a drawer or crushed cases and mulligans to pull apart from my self-learning curve.

However anyone can do it, I think people overwhelm themselves with 3d printed automated ads ons creating more moving things to go wrong and stop the process.

A 4 stage is great for pistol/lever cartridges especially for crimping which is critical on lever guns or feeding fussy semi auto pistols.

The best approach is to load one case at a time and dial in each of the 4 stages and do that for a while one cartridge at a time before getting to the bliss of having 4 stations go at once.

Most people’s hang ups are threading the die too deep into the press, crushing cases, or crimping cases while bullet seating (Lee dies do it simultaneously with bullet seating die) or over flaring case mouths on powder drop stage. (This will make sense later)

People could easily get overwhelmed once you add on brass feeders and bullet feeders that add the number of things to go wrong and make it hard to stop the process and make an adjustment to a die or something. The brass feeding arm can’t be stopped with a half stroke of the press lever and brass could spill out as one eg.

Invest in a quality scale and check powder charges often. Powder charge is the most dangerous aspevt especially if using high density/low volume powder like Titegroup.

I’d recommend starting with VV N110/N320/N340 (cartridge depending) or low density powders that will over flow cases if double charged. (Having a 38 special go off like 357mag was a wake for me that could’ve gone terrible)

Above all stick to he rules and books. Don’t extrapolate powder charges as pressure changes aren’t linear. Compare across different manuals and publishes free data say from Speer or VV or hogdon online sources.

Have fun, don’t die!
Click to expand...
Hahaha the “don’t die” cracked me up! I appreciate the advice and that is why I plan to start with loading for the lever actions.
 
MAXGORDON said:
Most people buy all this stuff and then realize reloading is extremely time consuming. Good luck paying your mortgage once you start buying amp annealers, tricklers and the latest thing some reloader channel tells you is awesome. Are you single? You will be if you spend all your time in a reloading room lol.
Click to expand...
Hahaha I work away so when I’m home I’ve got time. After a short while being home the misses gets sick of me which will be good time to reload😂
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom