Buying 7.5mm ammo

IMR 4227 burn rate is slower than tightgroup. You want faster powder in this type of revolver cartridge due to gap between cylinder and barrel which wastes gas when bullet jumps it. You have to have complete burn of powder in the cartridge case before bullet jumps the gap.With 4227 it may be wasted and still be burning after that resulting in blow by.
I used 4227 in 7.62 Ng cartridge and even with the gas seal I still had some residue of this powder in cases and barrel. It fired ok and for that cartridge 7 to 8 gr was ok. May be if I used mag primers it would be ok however I decided not to use it in these cartridges.
May be Kurgan or Drslav have more experiments with 4227, mine ended with 7.62 cartridges.


I did not use any other powder than Trailboss. This might change as the TB is hard to find.
 
I took a few rounds of 1962 headstamp 7.5 Swiss Ordnance BP revolver ammo to the range on Sunday with a pile of my handloads. Out of 9 BP rounds, I could only fire two out of my revolver, 4 fired out of my Martini Cadet (after trying in my revolver) with multiple attempts, and 3 were complete duds. Crap. Clearly, the primers were well past their expiration dates And the wax residue from the bullets was a PIA to clean out of the bores and chambers. Handload gents.
 
Unique, Trailboss, IMR700, Bullseye, perhaps IMR800, Titegroup, and similar powders would all work in 7.5 swiss revolver. And several others as well.

I need to start casting bullets for 7.5 Swiss and 7.7 Swedish revolvers. What's a good bullet mold design? Anybody got a favourite mold or bullet?
 
My 1962 headstamp military FMJ cartridges measure .318" !!

Due to the relative scarcity of the Swiss 1882 revolver and factory ammo here in Canada, there's plenty of confusion. This is probably compounded by some variability in bore measurements. This revolver had a production run from 1882ish to the early 1930s.

I have seen excellent accuracy and performance with .314" 100 grain soft lead wadcutters (H&N brand for 32 S&W Long). I have mainly used your .314" 112 grain lead SWCs in my Martini Cadet, which normally requires a .315-.316" heeled lead projectile. They've been great.
 
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... just as an aside, I also use recycled .312" 100 grain lead round nose bullets pulled from factory 32-20 cartridges and .311" 71.2 grain FMJs designed for 32 ACP cartridges. Both give ok performance from my Swiss 1882 revolver.
 
I was under the impression that the 7.5 swiss revolver bullets were .308".

The Swedish revolver are 309. I went to checked the barrel. They are listed at 314 but they are paper patched.i can't say for swiss but apparently they are supposed to be interchangeable. I cut my brass to same spec as french service revolver brass and neck down with 30 luger. As for casting any 314 round nose would be nice. Say..90-100 grain maybe. I prefer those over wad cutters. Just look nicer.
 
... just as an aside, I also use recycled .312" 100 grain lead round nose bullets pulled from factory 32-20 cartridges and .311" 71.2 grain FMJs designed for 32 ACP cartridges. Both give ok performance from my Swiss 1882 revolver.

Did you ever slug the barrel with a 314 and see what the actual bore diameter is? I'm curious.
 
My 1962 headstamp military FMJ cartridges measure .318" !!

Due to the relative scarcity of the Swiss 1882 revolver and factory ammo here in Canada, there's plenty of confusion. This is probably compounded by some variability in bore measurements. This revolver had a production run from 1882ish to the early 1930s.

I have seen excellent accuracy and performance with .314" 100 grain soft lead wadcutters (H&N brand for 32 S&W Long). I have mainly used your .314" 112 grain lead SWCs in my Martini Cadet, which normally requires a .315-.316" heeled lead projectile. They've been great.

Hey, thanks - compliments are always accepted, LOL.

I've been looking at carrying soft lead flat based bullets for the swiss and swede revolvers but there seems to be so much variation in bore dimensions that I've held back looking for clarification.
 
Did you ever slug the barrel with a 314 and see what the actual bore diameter is? I'm curious.

I don't really see the point. I just re-measured the factory FMJ military ammo, and I was wrong, it wasn't .318", it is .319"!
The .314" soft lead wadcutters are outstanding. If the forcing cone is swaging them down to .308", then so be it.
What I find intriguing is that I don't get the same accuracy with .312" 100 grain lead round nose bullets or .311" 71 grain 32 ACP FMJs.

When I find some time, I'll slug the bore just for sh|ts 'n giggles.
 
When I find some time, I'll slug the bore just for sh|ts 'n giggles.

No need to torture yourself or revolver with slugging the barrel, just do this.


Besides sluggin of the bore will give you accurate diameter of the throat not muzzle. As you hammer led slug from muzzle end it will expand to the diameter of the beginning of rifling and not the end, where it counts for accuracy.
 
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