Cant adjust scope on su16F ? Shooting 24MOA too low even with max adjustment

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Kryogen

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I have an su16F, and I tried mounting a bushnell 5-15 tactical on a perp mount on the keltec.

Even with the scope adjusted to the maximum, I am still shooting 6 inches low at 25 yards. that's 24 moa too low.

Wtf am I doing wrong? the mount is securely attached to the keltec rail, and the scope is properly torqued in the perp.

Any clue why I cant adjust the scope enough to shoot?
 
I know the rail is somewhat out of whack because the rear iron needs to be leftmost to fire straight. Maybe it's also up and down screwed?
Would have to try it on the ar15 at the restricted range next time I go.... next wednesday maybe.

Any other ideas why it would not work? seems strange to me that I just cant get the scope to intersect the shooting line. Like the rail is looking up and barrel is looking down or something? would have to place a level on both and see?
 
I'm guessing you don't own a boresighter.
I had an su16. Didn't have any issues with it.
Do you have backup irons other than stock.
My guess it the rail is out but your scope/mount is too.
 
should I buy a boresighter?
I usually fire a bullet at 25y, then move the reticle to the bullet, then fire at 100, move reticle to hole... 2 bullets and it's done 95%......
sent an email to vault....that su16 is starting to annoy me a bit
 
Zeroing groups are not one round affairs. 3 or more rounds and adjust for the mean average. The fact your rear iron is adjusted heavily to one side is not an indication of something wrong. Irons are windage adjustable for zeroing, not for dialing in for the wind. Same way most magnified optics are setup/run. Correct the lateral/windage for zero and leave it alone.

Tdc
 
Like I said, try the scope on another gun (as is). The su22 and su16 both stock rear sights where way out to lunch. The first thing I did was took them off when I got the rifles.
Anyway a bore sighter will help alot. If you do want to go that route.
 
Try again at a further distance. Minimum 50 meters. With your height over bore running the PEPR mount your already aiming at the ground. That optic has very minimal internal elevation adjustment. If it's the one I'm thinking its 40 MOA at a 100. The .223 round hasn't really even started its arc yet maxing your elevation far to early.
 
tried at 100 and I just could not hit a sheet of paper any way I tried it.
Now that I clicked it to the max and I know that I am 24 moa too low, I could try shooting it 2 feet above the sheet and see.....

what a waste of time with junk.

(I understand that irons are to be adjusted, but really, when you have to adjust to left most to get it to shoot straight, something is a tad off.....)
Also, front post has to be screwed completely in to fire level at 100 yards.
 
TDC said:
Zeroing groups are not one round affairs. 3 or more rounds and adjust for the mean average. The fact your rear iron is adjusted heavily to one side is not an indication of something wrong. Irons are windage adjustable for zeroing, not for dialing in for the wind. Same way most magnified optics are setup/run. Correct the lateral/windage for zero and leave it alone.

Tdc
Click to expand...

Ohhh that's something I did not know, interresting. I always stop shooting a rifle after 1 round maybe that's why I can never get a rifle to shoot straight.
Are you kidding me or something?
 
Omg 40moa, are you kidding me! No wonder it's shooting low. Take the darn mount off. It's not the guns fault at all. Did you not know the gun is ment for 50yds maybe 100 max? You should check the reviews in gun mags. Almost every one tested at 50yds not the standard 100yds. With 40moa were you planning on shooting 500+ yds?
 
little_airwolf said:
Omg 40moa, are you kidding me! No wonder it's shooting low. Take the darn mount off. It's not the guns fault at all. Did you not know the gun is ment for 50yds maybe 100 max? You should check the reviews in gun mags. Almost every one tested at 50yds not the standard 100yds. With 40moa were you planning on shooting 500+ yds?
Click to expand...

Wtf are you talking about. Re read the post
 
Hi, Kryogen, I have a SU-16 as well, I'm wondering from your description if,as already suggested, the molded rail is too high at the muzzle end? That would result in your scope's objective being higher than the ocular and obviously lowers the muzzle. I've got a bushnell trophy 3-9x40 mounted on mine and can hit the paper, but the grouping is about 4" at 100m. It's still new, only about 150 rounds through it, so I'm hoping that with some more shooting to break it in and trying different bullet weights, I'll find something this will give me 11/2 to 2", I'd like to use if for hunting coyotes over a call at 100 -150 meters :)
It you can, maybe measure the distance between the picatinny rail of the rifle and the underside of the main body tube at the ocular end and then at the objective end, I'm guessing there will be a diffence. If this is the case, you might be able to compensate/level the scope using rings like the burris signature series that have the inserts designed for that purpose.
Just a suggestion, hopefully it helps :) K
 
Rail seems to be a bit off level (pointing up when barrel is level). Not so much, but a bit. Should the rail be pointing down a bit, or just level with the barrel?

wtf is wrong with this setup.....
 
I dunno what the explanation is, but with my SU16 I tried to zero it at 20yd and had the same issue as you, ran out of adjustment on the scope while still 6 inches low. I moved it back to 50yd and I was shooting high all of the sudden, zeroed it at 50yd and moved back to 100 and had no problem. Ended up getting some 1" groups at 100. Not sure why it did that but don't panic. I was using the Leupold 1 piece cantilever rail, similar to the PEPR.
 
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