vanondemand
Member
- Location
- Vancouver, B.C.
Ive been trying to sight in my Mossberg 715t flat top rifle, however its shoots too low. I've maxed out my rear sight elevation but it still shoots too low. What could I be doing wrong 
Can't sight in!
- Thread starter vanondemand
- Start date
vanondemand
Member
- Location
- Vancouver, B.C.
5 & 10 ft, CCI
vanondemand
Member
- Location
- Vancouver, B.C.
Problem with that is you can no longer see where your hitting on regular paper targets with a small 22
Kayser Sose
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Southern Van Isle
Yeah you'll need a spotting scope or binos. You would be too low at that short distance...
Another idea would be to centre the group windage-wise, then try it out farther away to adjust for elevation. Again, at 5-10 feet, it WOULD be low.
Another idea would be to centre the group windage-wise, then try it out farther away to adjust for elevation. Again, at 5-10 feet, it WOULD be low.
Ive been trying to sight in my Mossberg 715t flat top rifle, however its shoots too low. I've maxed out my rear sight elevation but it still shoots too low. What could I be doing wrong
Just get a red dot and forget irons or plastics in this case
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First of all, you have to shoot a GROUP to see if they are all landing in the same area. Try four round or five round groups; that way if you get one flyer you will be pretty sure it is you and not the rifle. Shoot off a steady bench using sandbags or a support, not leaning over the hood of a truck or offhand.
Shoot at 25 yards to start with. Shooting at 5 and 10 FEET is a waste of amunition. Once you get a zero at 25 yards, then move to the 50 yard target and zero the scope there. If you set your zero at 50 yards so that it is about one inch high, you should be about right on at 75 yards and about three inches low at 100 yards. This differs slightly depending upon how high your scope is mounted.
This is a practical sight setting for the .22 rimfire. If you think about it, how many targets are you going to shoot at at 5 or 10 feet, compared with ones at 25 or 50 yards or more?
What did you do wrong? You made a very common mistake thinking it was better to zero a rifle at a very close range. The problem is that your scope is several inches above your barrel, and at a close range, the line of sight with the scope is at a steep angle to hit dead center a few feet.
To illustrate this, take a piece of paper and draw two lines across the length of it, making them about one inch apart. then on the bottom line, place a mark one inch from the edge (representing 10 feet) and another one 7 1/2 inches from the edge (representing 75 feet or 25 yards.) Then from the top line at the edge, draw a line from the edge to the 1 inch mark and to the 7 1/2 inch mark, and you will immediately see how steep the angle of sight is at the very close distance, and how much you will have to adjust the scope to hit at that very close distance. You will run of of adjustment when you try it, as you have found out.
The ALTERNATIVE method is to measure the distance from the center of your bore to the center of the scope. At 10 feet, you put up a target, and ABOVE the target, THE SAME DISTANCE AS YOUR MEASUREMENT, you put a small sticker or dot. YOU AIM AT THE DOT WITH YOUR ROUNDS LANDING ON THE TARGET BELOW.
This method is not as good but it does give you an idea of the HORIZONTAL distance to zero but less accurate in the VERTICAL one. Also, many scopes do not really focus right and give a clear picture at 5 or 10 feet, and PARALLAX enters into the factor. Usually a scope for a .22 rifle is Parallax set for 50 or 100 yards, while a high powered scope is set for 100 or 200 yards. This means that moving your eye even slightly will magnify any sighting errors at the very close range.
.
First of all, you have to shoot a GROUP to see if they are all landing in the same area. Try four round or five round groups; that way if you get one flyer you will be pretty sure it is you and not the rifle. Shoot off a steady bench using sandbags or a support, not leaning over the hood of a truck or offhand.
Shoot at 25 yards to start with. Shooting at 5 and 10 FEET is a waste of amunition. Once you get a zero at 25 yards, then move to the 50 yard target and zero the scope there. If you set your zero at 50 yards so that it is about one inch high, you should be about right on at 75 yards and about three inches low at 100 yards. This differs slightly depending upon how high your scope is mounted.
This is a practical sight setting for the .22 rimfire. If you think about it, how many targets are you going to shoot at at 5 or 10 feet, compared with ones at 25 or 50 yards or more?
What did you do wrong? You made a very common mistake thinking it was better to zero a rifle at a very close range. The problem is that your scope is several inches above your barrel, and at a close range, the line of sight with the scope is at a steep angle to hit dead center a few feet.
To illustrate this, take a piece of paper and draw two lines across the length of it, making them about one inch apart. then on the bottom line, place a mark one inch from the edge (representing 10 feet) and another one 7 1/2 inches from the edge (representing 75 feet or 25 yards.) Then from the top line at the edge, draw a line from the edge to the 1 inch mark and to the 7 1/2 inch mark, and you will immediately see how steep the angle of sight is at the very close distance, and how much you will have to adjust the scope to hit at that very close distance. You will run of of adjustment when you try it, as you have found out.
The ALTERNATIVE method is to measure the distance from the center of your bore to the center of the scope. At 10 feet, you put up a target, and ABOVE the target, THE SAME DISTANCE AS YOUR MEASUREMENT, you put a small sticker or dot. YOU AIM AT THE DOT WITH YOUR ROUNDS LANDING ON THE TARGET BELOW.
This method is not as good but it does give you an idea of the HORIZONTAL distance to zero but less accurate in the VERTICAL one. Also, many scopes do not really focus right and give a clear picture at 5 or 10 feet, and PARALLAX enters into the factor. Usually a scope for a .22 rifle is Parallax set for 50 or 100 yards, while a high powered scope is set for 100 or 200 yards. This means that moving your eye even slightly will magnify any sighting errors at the very close range.
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Well, that would be the problem. On a gun with the tall sights this has you will never get on at 10ft. If you did, it would be zeroed for about 200yds. You need to start out farther, like 25yds.
So, shoot a 5 round group and then walk up and see where it ended up and adjust from there. Or take another scoped rifle to check your POI with. Even a crappy 4x will show .22 holes at 25yds.
Mark
what are you talking about? your saying your trying to sight in at 5 FEET? thats insane.
i can shoot off my truck hood with my 10/22 at white paper targets at 40 to 45 YARDS and see the majority of the shots placed.(without a scope) if you can only see shots taken at 5 or 10 FEET, you must be legally blind.
I sight my 10/22's for zero at 40 yards, the average gopher shooing distance for me.
vanondemand
Member
- Location
- Vancouver, B.C.
I must be...
5 feet? trying to sight in a bayonet? lol
but on topic, 5 feet wouldn't be ideal. If you aligned your bullet path and the path of your sight at 5 feet, it would mean anything past that distance would be hitting well under the target. would probably mean towards like 20 feet or so, the bullets would be close to hitting the ground if you were trying to shoot straight
but on topic, 5 feet wouldn't be ideal. If you aligned your bullet path and the path of your sight at 5 feet, it would mean anything past that distance would be hitting well under the target. would probably mean towards like 20 feet or so, the bullets would be close to hitting the ground if you were trying to shoot straight
or possibly a Ncstar laser, they have about the same usable range as a bayonet
