casting for 9mm

dearslayer

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I was wanting to give casting bullets for 9mm and .40 S&W a try in the next little while. I have a couple old pots and some lead but I need to purchase Lee Molds for each caliber but I'm not sure which ones to order. Can someone suggest which ones I should get from the image attached? Should I get the 2 cavity or 6 cavity, Micro band or Gas Check?? Any help for a rookie would be appreciated.
 

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I would start with one double mold to learn with

Spend a lot of time watching videos specific to Lee molds.

Stop in at Castboolits and do a little more searching on Lee molds.

Great molds to learn on as they are cheap.

Handgun bullets usually don't need gas checks. Save learning about that for another day.

I use the 356-125-2R
 
My two favorites off that chart are #90465 for 9mm and #90433 for 40cal.
I spray my molds with liquid graphite and the bullets fall out and the graphite lubricates the sprule. New molds I have to assist the bullet out with a welding glove for a while till it is broken in. Every thousand bullets I re-spray the face and sprule with liquid graphite.
I have 38 bullet molds.
I'm on my 3rd 20lb melting pot.
Then you get a toaster oven and start powder coating them....
 
Over the past 25+ years, I find steel moulds work better for me... Still use my RCBS 9mm and .45 moulds that I purchased in 1994... I started with double cavity moulds (not by choice perse), later procured 6 cavity H&G for 148gn. WC for .357. I think it makes sense to start with double cavity moulds first to understand how things work...

I do have a bunch of Lee 2 and 6 cavity moulds as well, even designed and get them to cut me a 6 cavity custom .32WC mould some 15 years ago... Still use those as well...
 
I tried both the TL-356-124-2R and the TL-356-124-TC and neither one worked worth a damn. Tumbling bullets and poor accuracy. Tried different loads and different seating depths in different guns to no avail. They both fed fine but that doesn't matter much if they're flying sideways. A friend of mine tried the TL-356-124-TC with the same poor results.

I use the 6 cavity 356-125-2R and powder coat the bullets with much greater success. It's a tack driver with my CZ-75 Tactical Sport pistols and my 9mm STI Trojan.

At 9mm velocities gas checks aren't needed, especially if you powder coat.
 
Ok this may be a stupid question but to avoid having to purchase a 6 cavity down the road once experience is achieved would it make sense to purchase the 6 cavity from the get go and only use two cavities when starting out and once skills are acquired then continue to use all 6 cavities or would this method go against the idea of breaking in the mold only using two and not the other 4?
 
Ok this may be a stupid question but to avoid having to purchase a 6 cavity down the road once experience is achieved would it make sense to purchase the 6 cavity from the get go and only use two cavities when starting out and once skills are acquired then continue to use all 6 cavities or would this method go against the idea of breaking in the mold only using two and not the other 4?

Big issue is controlling the heat of the mold
 
I would start with one double mold to learn with

Spend a lot of time watching videos specific to Lee molds.

Stop in at Castboolits and do a little more searching on Lee molds.

Great molds to learn on as they are cheap.

Handgun bullets usually don't need gas checks. Save learning about that for another day.

I use the 356-125-2R

I agree with yomomma. I use the 356120 type, but in a Lyman version. 5 gr. of Unique sized @ .356
 
Big issue is controlling the heat of the mold


Aw ok gotcha. That makes more sense. Thanks. So next question is how do I best clean these two old pots that I have? They were given to me a while back. I haven't even turned the one on. If I remember correctly I did turn the Lee pot on when I first acquired it just to see if it actually worked but never left it on long. Are they worth keeping or would I be better served with a new pot to lessen the troubles I may encounter as a beginner? On
 

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tyvek suit goggles, respirator, gloves, drill, wire brush, mineral spirits, garbage bag, paper towels.

Work in a shop or garage

Spread garbage bag out on your work surface. Put on your PPE. Soak pot with mineral spirits and use elbo grease to clean rust out of pot. Keep surfaces wet with mineral spirits, this will keep the dust down.

Once it is decently clean, wipe with mineral spirits and paper towels.

One last wipe with alcohol. Now throw all PPE, wipes, garbage bag into another garbage bag. Tie up and now go wash your hands well. 90% of all lead enters through the mouth

Take it to a dump that takes in hazardous waste.

Yes worth keeping
 
Well a tyvek suit I don't have. Everything else I do. So your saying the most important thing is to remove any rust and built up lead from the inside of the pots. Is this correct?
 
Lead is not the issue. Rust particles can contaminate you lead, Dampen heat transfer, etc

If you don't have a tyvek suit old coveralls or other clothing will be just fine. Wash them and yourself right afterwards.

Its all meant to keep lead exposure (dust) to a minimum. Lead is actually quite safe as long as you keep it out of your mouth
 
Also 9mm is a fairly high pressure pistol round. For best results you will want to match BHN hardness of the bullet to the chamber pressure. The lee manual explains it quite well. 9mm used to be considered a fussy round to cast for but now it is easy. With Heat treating and powder coating it is easy to make great projectiles.
 
Lead is not the issue. Rust particles can contaminate you lead, Dampen heat transfer, etc

If you don't have a tyvek suit old coveralls or other clothing will be just fine. Wash them and yourself right afterwards.

Its all meant to keep lead exposure (dust) to a minimum. Lead is actually quite safe as long as you keep it out of your mouth
Well I filled the pot with mineral spirits to let it soak for a bit before attempting to scrub it. Not sure if the soak will help but I'll check it after dinner. Can't see much dust to come off it while filled with liquid but will dawn the mask once emptied and if more dry scraping is necessary.
 
Well I filled the pot with mineral spirits to let it soak for a bit before attempting to scrub it. Not sure if the soak will help but I'll check it after dinner. Can't see much dust to come off it while filled with liquid but will dawn the mask once emptied and if more dry scraping is necessary.

More so when you chuck up the wire wheel and have at it.

Careful pot may leak. Was thinking more of just coating it rather than filling it up
 
So I started cleaning and decided that perhaps I better open this thing up to have a look to see it's condition on the inside. The heating coil looks like it's seen better days. It looks like the outer aluminum wrap and bottom aluminum cover has been pounded on or manipulated at some point and the pot is leaning quite a bit I'm not sure if that's the correct angle. I'm sure it wasn't like that from the factory as new. I'm wondering if replacement parts are available and if they are is it worth the cost versus buying a new pot.
 

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