cheap chu wood refinishing?

The rifle in post #72 is sporting a synthetic handguard. Synthetic handguards are pretty much the defacto standard and come in solid and slotted variations. Slotted are not very popular (kind of starwarish and fragile).

This is a wallnut handguard that I purchased from Brownells.

M305WHG.jpg


Damned..... I need to replace that carpet some day!
 
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What paint can I apply to my Chu wood stalk that will result in a textured hard wearing finish? I'm thinking flat black, OD or gunship grey. Camo is beyond my skill sets. Also, what kind of prep coat needs to be applied?
 
Canadian Tire spray on bed liner, will give you a hard, durable and textured finish. You can paint over it or leave it. It's almost a flat colour. It comes in black, and I think, grey. It's what I use on all my fiberglass stocks that I do. Easy to use, hard as nails and dries fast. And it's cheap to boot.

Make sure the chu wood is clean ( I use the dishwasher, you gotta get that oil out) and dry. Give it a quick sand and spray away.
 
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Cool....Spray on, I like that idea. I knew someone would have an easy and cheap solution!

Can you post a pic?
 
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Chinese Spaghetti Wood

Is it not a waste of time refinishing a chu wood stock that expands and allows the action to sit loosely in the stock ? I have seen tight shooting chu norcs that spring loose after just a few rounds --I have HEARD people SAY that their chu shoots well but I have never SEEN that. :confused:
 
I had pretty good luck pillar bedding my Chu stock. Yes it shot loose; but it took about 400 rounds. I'd have no hesitation to do another, and I'd make the 'pillars' larger and do a bit more reinforcing. I'm sure I could get a useful life of 500 rounds from the first bedding, and even longer out of subsequent re-beddings.
 
Either Or it seems--

So what are the options at that point? Go to a real hardwood or USGI fibreglass?

Fiberglass is good but I like the wood look , metal stock liner in a walnut and the stiffer forend - When epoxy bedded , if you store the rifle with the trigger guard unhooked it stays a tight stock. But I do hate stock dings dents and scratches. HMMMM ------- maybe stick on walnut veneer over a fiberglass G.I. :eek:
That I have never seen - maybe my next project :rolleyes:
 
May as well throw in my 2 cents. First of all the M14 was designed as a battle rifle and not meant to be purty. It's only the last 15 years or so where gung ho guys have decided to trick them out. Hey, I jumped on the bandwagon 7 years ago and have had the dubious pleasure of tricking out many.

In it's heyday, the M14 was a killing machine sitting in a hardwood stock. Most notably walnut, but birch, maple, ash and others were used. It wasn't until the early to mid 60s that a fiberglass stock was even thought of. Why? Because the wood stock was deemed too heavy to pack around in the bush.

A battle rifle itself doesn't depend on accuracy of fire. It depends more on volume at a sustained rate of fire on a perceived target.

It wasn't until the M14 outshot the M1 Garand in service rifle matches did a truly tuned M14 make the pages of US service rifle history.

You want a tight Norinco, you can use a synthetic or bed a USGI walnut or birch stock. I have both and score the same with both. I also have a 6 year old bedded chu wood that comes pretty close.:p
 
Agreed

May as well throw in my 2 cents. First of all the M14 was designed as a battle rifle and not meant to be purty. It's only the last 15 years or so where gung ho guys have decided to trick them out. Hey, I jumped on the bandwagon 7 years ago and have had the dubious pleasure of tricking out many.

In it's heyday, the M14 was a killing machine sitting in a hardwood stock. Most notably walnut, but birch, maple, ash and others were used. It wasn't until the early to mid 60s that a fiberglass stock was even thought of. Why? Because the wood stock was deemed too heavy to pack around in the bush.

A battle rifle itself doesn't depend on accuracy of fire. It depends more on volume at a sustained rate of fire on a perceived target.

It wasn't until the M14 outshot the M1 Garand in service rifle matches did a truly tuned M14 make the pages of US service rifle history.

You want a tight Norinco, you can use a synthetic or bed a USGI walnut or birch stock. I have both and score the same with both. I also have a 6 year old bedded chu wood that comes pretty close.:p

I seem to remember the older norc and polytech wood to be stiffer, you couldnt put a dent in it with your fingernail. Wish I would have kept those old stocks --:(
By the way , the fiberglass I believe came in not for weight but because of damp jungle rot springing the wood stocks loose.
 
Here's a point to ponder.... I have no dishwasher at my place, so that method is out. What I do have is a bathtub and dish soap. How much soap, and how long a soak would pull the crud from the lumber? And can I get away with leaving on any of the metal bits, other than the butt plate?
 
I have no dishwasher at my place, so that method is out. What I do have is a bathtub and dish soap. And can I get away with leaving on any of the metal bits, other than the butt plate?

I would try the car wash before attempting the bathtub. I left all the metal including the butt plate on when I stuffed mine in the dishwasher.
 
I don't think the local car washes would appreciate me washing a rifle stock in their bays. I caught flak the last time I pressure washed 6 months worth of crud off a pair of work boots.
 
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