Chiappa 9mm M1 Carbine Review

beltfed

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I've been sort of on the hunt for a 9mm sub-gun/carbine on and off for the last year or so.
Some of the things that have thrown me off has been initial costs, quality issues and limited capacity (in some that are restricted to 5 rounds such as the Famae). Oddly enough, because most all of my shooting is done on a range, the restricted nature of some was an attribute that weighted very low on the scale with me.
Some of the front runners were the JR Carbine, the Theuron Defence Carbine and a Lone Wolf AR that takes Glock mags - all for the fact I have two Glocks (a 17 and a 21SF) and a host of magazines that I know to be cheap(er), abundant and extremely reliable.

I have over the years owned several copies of M1 carbines in .30 Cal, in some cases never shooting them due to their collectibility. A few years ago I purchased a decent '43 dated National Postal Meter example with the post WWII arsenal refurbishments. It shoots quite well as M1 carbines go so I graduated from spending roughly 30-35$ on 50 rounds of factory Winchester or Remington ammunition and started reloading for it. With a Sierra 110 FMJ over VV N110 with Winchester small rifle primers the M1 can print 10 round groups into about 3-4" at 100 yards. This is pretty decent by M1 standards especially considering it has it's original 43' dated inland marked barrel and a 7 lb trigger. At 5 lbs 71/2 oz., small size and very light recoil the M1 is a handy little rifle good for just about anyone. Some of the drawbacks being that ammunition (no, not that Tulla Cr*P) is a little expensive and sometimes a bit of a pain to source. While reloading is easy, sometimes sourcing the .308 bullets these use and the brass can be difficult as well. The majority of USGI examples are restricted, while some of the civilian models were not very well received due to quality control and poor reliability.
Compounding all of this is the fact M1s can be, and generally are, finicky with magazines.

Recently I've been narrowing my search for something non-restricted and something my two girls can handle (8 and 10 yrs old) for camping trips and impromptu range sessions.
Enter the Chiappa M1-9. I read about this thing a bit on this forum and others and never really gave it much pause until this past weekend when I handled one at Calgary Shooting Centre. A small statured 9mm carbine resembling an M1 that takes Beretta 92 magazines for under 500$ - that is a fairly good mix that got my impulse buy. As I was on my way to the outdoor range, and had some 9mm hand loads with me I figured I'd give it a whirl. I headed out to the range and promptly set up a target at the 100 yard point. As the ammo I had with me is a light 'production load' for my Glock, I was curious, but not overly optimistic on how it would perform with this stuff. Chiappa recommends 150-300 rounds [edit: read the manual again and it states 100-150 rounds] for a break in period (where presumably you can expect some grief until things get smoothed out).
The first 10 rounds fired without a hitch, but alas only one round on target (low to the right on an IPSC metric target).
Dialling it back to 50 yards, I fired the next 40 rounds getting the sights dialled for windage and elevation. The rifle had several stoppages per magazine due to rounds mis-feeding into the top of the chamber, but it generally printed 10 rounds 'minute of A zone' on an IPSC metric at 50 meters.
I fired a total of 100 rounds of hand loads (4.2 grains of Tightgroup over 124 Berry's, Federal primers, 1.15" oal) and had at least 2 dozen stoppages in that first range outing.
More to follow:
 
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First detail strip and cleaning:

I believe Chiappa has based this M1-9 on their M1-22 .22 rimfire rifles.
The instructions they have supplied pretty much suck and their documentation for a detail strip are non-existent.

So here's mine:

Step one (after you have completed your ACTS and PROVE):
Loosen the front barrel band and slide it forward on the barrel, removing it from the stock and top hand guard.
My synthetic stocked version has a set screw inserted on the left side (which I later found out was put there to keep the tightened barrel band from walking forward under firing).





Once you have the barrel band sorted, you can slide off the top hand guard.
You now need to remove the magazine release button (unscrewing it from the mag catch - it is held on with a thread fastener so best to wrap it with several layers of tape and use a pair of plyers to unscrew it). This needs to be done if the magwell is going to slide out of the stock.


Next remove the rear stock screw and nut:


Now cam the rifle assembly out of the stock:


Once you have the assembly out you can remove the trigger and magwell assembly from the receiver group by punching out the roll pin and sliding the trigger group to the rear:



Now for the sucky part:
Chiappa believes this is all you need to do to assemble and maintain your rifle without the need for a gunsmith.
No need to remove the recoil spring or bolt from the receiver.
They have not provided any instruction, and quite frankly I'm puzzled on how to do it.
So after a bit, I shrugged my shoulders and cleaned as best I could so I was able to make the range outing for the next day:
 
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First (real) range report:

OK, so this is technically the second outing, but really the first was more or less a function test.
It functioned, and did so on some rather soft ammunition.
As stated Chiappa recommends up to 300 rounds [edit: re-read the 'instruction manual' and it states in bold: "Please allow 100-150 rounds for initial "Break-In" period" - which is utter B/S - it should read 1000-1500 rounds] as a 'break in' to smooth thing over. Personally I'm not a fan of 'break in periods' as I like my firearms working out of the box - I'm of the mindset that these 'break in periods' are just an excuse for a poorly assembled/designed/built firearm.
For 400$ I guess I can swallow a bit of break in....
With a 10 pound trigger (yeah, 10 lbs on a lyman digital gauge which is accurate...) and an afternoon of frustra..., er, I mean stoppage drills ahead, I'm not much expecting a great deal of accuracy. I do want to record my findings in relation to what I would expect from a carbine of this type though.
With the 'right' ammo I don't think it is unreasonable to expect 2" @ 25m and 4" @ 50m with a reasonably rested rifle chambered in 9mm.

So I packed up 100 rounds each of the factory ammo I had and some 124 grain Montana Gold FMJ hand loads that closely resemble a factory offering and headed to the range with the intention of firing groups at 25 yards and 50 yards with each of 50 rounds, sending a total of 400 rounds down range.
As it turned out, I was hit by some pretty nasty afternoon thunder showers and only concluded the 25 yard testing, so the 50 yard stuff will have to wait.

The Ammo: From left to right: Ruag 9mm (incidentally the most accurate 9mm I've ever ran across), GECO 124 gr., IVI Ball, 124 gr. Handloads.


The shooting position was sitting benched with a front rest only.
I fired two ten round groups with the 100m sight setting (unless noted otherwise), sighting with a 6 o'clock hold on the coloured circle, recording each and then firing 30 rounds of each type of ammo starting with Ruag :




Next up was the IVI. This stuff proved very difficult to run reliably (even more so than the others) in part I believe due to the longer loading and blunt nose:




GECO was next:


I failed to complete a proper 30 round group of the GECO ammo as by this point the wind was absolutely howling and the rain was coming in sheets.

At this stage of the session I had fired 150 rounds on top of the 100 rounds from the day previous for a total of 250 rounds.
I had LOTS of stoppages; far too many to keep track of. I think some of it may have been me even limp wristing it (it is blowback after all), so a very firm grip and rearward pull into the shoulder should definitely help (here's to hoping).

I finished by putting 50 rounds of hand loads down range at this point with 10 round mag dumps standing position with a very firm hard hold. I had three stoppages - so while not perfect, this thing is (I believe) working in.

Edited to add 50m shoot:

Was out again today as I had a day off.
Brought the same ammo with me with the exception of IVI as the M1 didn't appear to favour it at all.
Bit the bullet as it were and bought two Beretta 92 mags (70$ each - ouch!) and Fired another 200 round all total.
The total stoppages were about a dozen - all failures to feed (I'll cover that in a different post). The Beretta magazines ran very well, with only a few stoppages happening during their use, the remainder with the Pro-Mag that came with the rifle.
First 50 rounds were to get it on target and adjust for windage when I realized the rear sight assembly was loose in the dovetail. The sight has a set-screw in the base to lock it down into the dovetail, but unfortunately the sight has to be taken apart to get at the grub screw.
having sorted that out I promptly dropped the tiny ball bearing that fits into the windage screw detent -awesome.
So with the sight back together less the ball bearing, the sight windage doesn't 'click' at each adjustment and I'm a little leery that it will hold its setting.
anyhow, onto the shooting:
As with the 25 yard range report, I used a front rest, sitting benched, no rear support. Not exactly the best position for accuracy, but gives a decent account of what the rifle will do.
First up was the GEKO 124gr. FMJ - 30 rounds at 50 yards using the 200m sight setting with a 6 o'clock hold on the black target circle:

Just brutal is all I have to say of this target. I don't think this is indicative of any one thing be it the rifle, ammo or my shooting in this particular case, but it is what it is. I was holding onto the gun with a death grip at the barrel band as to not induce limp wristed induced stoppages, though so that may have also played a part in the dismal showing.

Next is the Ruag :

This is much better, but I believe there is quite a bit of sloppiness that could still be attributed to a rather nasty 10 lb trigger pull.

I then did some offhand shooting with a final target containing 55 rounds of mixed ammo at 50 yards (Ruag , GEKO and some hand loads):

This was a better result than the rested GEKO group which I'm now leaning heavily toward thinking that resting the fore end of this rifle, and the design of the barrel band is not doing it any favours at all.


Next up is some comparison photos and maybe a trigger job
Stay tuned.
 
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Adding some photos and comparison photos of my USGI M1:

Here is a photo of the two stocks lined up. Here we can see the relief in the top to allow for the extra (left side) action lever arm on the Chiappa 9mm that is not present on an original M1

Another view from the right:


Another view of the left side of the action interface with the top of the stock


Top of the synthetic stock with my original M1 placed into it. A snug fit.


Front barrel band and original barrelled receiver in the Chiappa synthetic stock - the USGI barrel band and bayonet lug work just fine.


Rear iron site comparison between USGI (left) and Chiappa (right)


view of oiler and sling in the synthetic stock




Angle of attack for a round entering into the chamber



With the bolt held open with the charging handle slide stop, and a magazine inserted it is apparent the bolt is over riding the round:

It is hard to make out in this photo, but with the charging handle pulled back on a loaded magazine, the bolt just barely has purchase on the rear of the round to force it into the chamber:
 
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Don't rule out a 3D print Glock mag lower. ;) Can you put a Glock mag up to it, and the bolt to see if it's possible? It might not be possible with the tight dimensions, however. Thoughts?
 
Please keep reporting. It is not unusual to find a gun only works well with a certain shape bullet or maybe a certain OAL with it.

My M1 Carbine works very well with berry's plated bullets and 2400, but only with USGI mags.
 
Thanks for the report.

I have never owned an M1 carbine and based on your review, this isn't the one I'll buy should I get one!
Mmmm..I think I will follow your advise. Was really interested but I will not tolerate ANY gun that has FTF or FTE issues. I own 8 hand guns and 5 rifles that work flawlessly. Life is way to short. I grew up with junk guns and worked for hours on end tying to get them to work correctly,..now I dispise it !
 
I honestly think we are spoiled with quality military surplus for cheap (for sure) and inexpensive Chinese guns (to a degree).

Pull apart an old mauser or K31 - the machining is artisan and one can buy these things for a few hundred dollars.

Today's quality costs real world dollars.
 
Adding some photos and comparison photos of my USGI M1:

Here is a photo of the two stocks lined up. Here we can see the relief in the top to allow for the extra (left side) action lever arm on the Chiappa 9mm that is not present on an original M1

Another view of the left side of the action interface with the top of the stock


Rear iron site comparison between USGI (left) and Chiappa (right)



Angle of attack for a round entering into the chamber



With the bolt held open with the charging handle slide stop, and a magazine inserted it is apparent the bolt is over riding the round:

It is hard to make out in this photo, but with the charging handle pulled back on a loaded magazine, the bolt just barely has purchase on the rear of the round to force it into the chamber:


Finally some good pic's of the action on this thing .
Thanks you saved me from ordering one .
Good luck with yours & no offence to anyone that bought one but that thing looks like a POS
:rolleyes:
 
It may work better with the Beretta 40 mags as the 9mm rounds would sit higher up out of the mag and give the bolt more of the round to grab, just an idea.
 
It may work better with the Beretta 40 mags as the 9mm rounds would sit higher up out of the mag and give the bolt more of the round to grab, just an idea.

I can't find any 96 mags here in Calgary, so I'll likely order them in.
 
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