The Outsider
CGN Regular
Here's part of my Savage 1899 and 99 collection.
can't quite get them in one pic anymore....
made between 1897 - 1984
Calibers include.....
303 Savage
250-3000
22HP
300 Savage
38-55
30-30
308
358
375
7mm-08
No tang cracks, extra holes, or other real issues anywhere!!
I know of a way to prevent the infamous Savage model 99 tang crack,
This will allow you to shoot and enjoy your classic Savage model 1899 or 99 without any worries of the tang cracking,
or having to do costly repairs or modifications, that could affect it's value.
The savage 99, unlike other lever guns, is hammerless with a rotary magazine.
Because of the way the bolt works, there isn't much wood in the tang area.
That, combined with other factors such as stock bolts working loose, wood shrinkage and drying out over time, improper inletting at the factory, can result in the tang cracking from repeated firing.
This is a way to prevent the tang from developing a crack, or stopping an existing crack from spreading.......
Basically you have to remove the buttstock and shim up the recoil lug on the lower tang.
When done right, this will allow some relief on the upper tang where the wood meets the metal.
Remove the butt plate and insert a 10" long flathead screwdriver to remove the stock bolt.
Be careful when removing the stock, make sure the screwdriver is not between the bolt head and the wood as this could cause a crack.
I use brass shims, (available at machine shops or tool supply shops)
Cut it to the right size using good quality side cutters and a cutting wheel on a Dremel tool.
Bend it around the recoil lug so it fits in snugly between there and the wood.
Drill or punch a hole in the brass shim so the stock bolt will pass through.
Trim and taper all edges with a die grinder of some sort like the Dremel tool with the stone bit attachment.
make sure there are no sharp edges, steep edges, or burrs.
Make sure the shim is thick enough to provide the necessary relief on the upper tang, but not so thick that you can't bend it around the lug,
about 20mm thick seems to work fine for me.
Put the buttstock on and tighten everything back up.
Link to my tutorial here on CGN with pics.....
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/foru...l-99-tang-crack-prevention-tutorial-with-pics
1914 SRC in 30-30....
1908 1899B (octagonal barrel) in 303....
can't quite get them in one pic anymore....
made between 1897 - 1984
Calibers include.....
303 Savage
250-3000
22HP
300 Savage
38-55
30-30
308
358
375
7mm-08
No tang cracks, extra holes, or other real issues anywhere!!
I know of a way to prevent the infamous Savage model 99 tang crack,
This will allow you to shoot and enjoy your classic Savage model 1899 or 99 without any worries of the tang cracking,
or having to do costly repairs or modifications, that could affect it's value.
The savage 99, unlike other lever guns, is hammerless with a rotary magazine.
Because of the way the bolt works, there isn't much wood in the tang area.
That, combined with other factors such as stock bolts working loose, wood shrinkage and drying out over time, improper inletting at the factory, can result in the tang cracking from repeated firing.
This is a way to prevent the tang from developing a crack, or stopping an existing crack from spreading.......
Basically you have to remove the buttstock and shim up the recoil lug on the lower tang.
When done right, this will allow some relief on the upper tang where the wood meets the metal.
Remove the butt plate and insert a 10" long flathead screwdriver to remove the stock bolt.
Be careful when removing the stock, make sure the screwdriver is not between the bolt head and the wood as this could cause a crack.
I use brass shims, (available at machine shops or tool supply shops)
Cut it to the right size using good quality side cutters and a cutting wheel on a Dremel tool.
Bend it around the recoil lug so it fits in snugly between there and the wood.
Drill or punch a hole in the brass shim so the stock bolt will pass through.
Trim and taper all edges with a die grinder of some sort like the Dremel tool with the stone bit attachment.
make sure there are no sharp edges, steep edges, or burrs.
Make sure the shim is thick enough to provide the necessary relief on the upper tang, but not so thick that you can't bend it around the lug,
about 20mm thick seems to work fine for me.
Put the buttstock on and tighten everything back up.
Link to my tutorial here on CGN with pics.....
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/foru...l-99-tang-crack-prevention-tutorial-with-pics
1914 SRC in 30-30....
1908 1899B (octagonal barrel) in 303....
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