Clay shooting basics for choosing a gun?

Faast Andy

Faast Andy

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I am looking at over/under shotguns in 12Ga for shooting clays… when I say that I mean, sporting clays, trap and skeet shooting.
As an absolute beginner and novice bird hunter, I have just enough information to know how little I actually know before I buy a sports specific shotgun.
I’m currently using my old but functional semi auto 12 gauge, but find that ergonomically loading is more difficult and longer than a break action would be.
Before I “pull the trigger” on a big purchase, I had some very specific questions about single and double trigger models, different styles of selectors, extractors versus ejectors, and benefits of palm swell models? Pro’s and cons etc?
I’d like ejectors (I think) because they seem to be quicker and look cooler..
I heard that some models have strange barrel selection switches that aren’t easy to master? (Specifically Turkish made guns)
I have a Combo gun (12Ga/222REM)with double trigger setup that is fairly easy to master but has no “selector switch” other than choosing the correct trigger…
Once i figure out these basics I will move on to decide which feel better coming to the shoulder I think? Or I may just have more different questions…
I look forward to hearing from those already in the sport, your opinions will be appreciated!
Steve
 
Beretta or browning pic a model with a adjustable stock seeing as you want to try different games 28"-30"
that's about it 2000-4500$
bob your uncle
 
Choose a versatile clays gun, like a Crossover or CX, with adjustable stock, and 30", or even 32" barrels. Clay guns have one trigger, and ejectors, and don't have an auto safety I prefer the barrel selector separate from the safety, as it is with my Blaser and Krieghoff shotguns, but since I never use the safety or selector, on my clays guns, it really doesn't matter.
 
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Best bet is go to a sporting range and shoulder all you can. If it comes up and sits in place that’s a good start. Do not get anything that you have to move once the gun is up.
 
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If you want to get serious about clays a single selective trigger is best. Most clay guns have ejectors
If you're just out to shoot casually and have fun buy what ever you like that points where you look when you shoulder it.
As for dual triggers I shoot skeet and sporting with dual trigger sxs guns without issue. I also prefer it for hunting. While I prefer sxs over over unders I like single triggers in an ou
You dont need a high end clay marketed gun to break clays. Big name clay guns are built to withstand more use and are generally heavier and thicker than game guns. If you can master a consistent mount and shoot fast a game gun may suit you better

Id find a local skeet range and just go in and talk with shooters. Most guys will let you shoulder or even shoot their guns use that as a base line to see what fits you
 
brybenn said:
If you want to get serious about clays a single selective trigger is best. Most clay guns have ejectors
If you're just out to shoot casually and have fun buy what ever you like that points where you look when you shoulder it.
As for dual triggers I shoot skeet and sporting with dual trigger sxs guns without issue. I also prefer it for hunting. While I prefer sxs over over unders I like single triggers in an ou
You dont need a high end clay marketed gun to break clays. Big name clay guns are built to withstand more use and are generally heavier and thicker than game guns. If you can master a consistent mount and shoot fast a game gun may suit you better

Id find a local skeet range and just go in and talk with shooters. Most guys will let you shoulder or even shoot their guns use that as a base line to see what fits you
Click to expand...
Single selective trigger? That term and LOP (length of pull?) are ones i need more info on…I suppose shouldering different ones is the way to go with these? Any thoughts on different stocks?
 
I guess it depends on what you think you'll enjoy the most.
For hunting birds (grouse/woodcock), where you'll be doing more walking than shooting...
- Something in the 5 1/2-6 lbs range is nice
- Since I'm often on mountain side of walking through aspen... I prefer shorter barrels (25"-26")

For clays
- Seems like most folks are going with something in the 7-8 lbs range, and longer-is-better seems to be the trend for barrels.

Singe vs double trigger
- I'm probably getting old and clumsy... so working the safety/barrel selector simultaneously while wearing gloves, is not something I'm good with. So I prefer 2 triggers... But one any given years, I'll only shoot a few rounds of clays, to get me back in the swing of things before bird-season!
- I tried hunting with a single trigger, and leaving the selector on the open-choke, and it worked ok (I guess)... but felt kind of weird (and had me trying to squeeze my finger between the trigger guard and said trigger :unsure: )

LOP. the distance between the butplate and the trigger... Depends on your body type, arm length, do have a long neck (or not)
- Adjustable stocks are nice, since you can easily change things... Whether they're pretty or not, it's for you to decide.

But yeah, socializing at the club and trying as much stuff as you can is probably the best option.
 
sillymike said:
I guess it depends on what you think you'll enjoy the most.
For hunting birds (grouse/woodcock), where you'll be doing more walking than shooting...
- Something in the 5 1/2-6 lbs range is nice
- Since I'm often on mountain side of walking through aspen... I prefer shorter barrels (25"-26")

For clays
- Seems like most folks are going with something in the 7-8 lbs range, and longer-is-better seems to be the trend for barrels.

Singe vs double trigger
- I'm probably getting old and clumsy... so working the safety/barrel selector simultaneously while wearing gloves, is not something I'm good with. So I prefer 2 triggers... But one any given years, I'll only shoot a few rounds of clays, to get me back in the swing of things before bird-season!
- I tried hunting with a single trigger, and leaving the selector on the open-choke, and it worked ok (I guess)... but felt kind of weird (and had me trying to squeeze my finger between the trigger guard and said trigger :unsure: )

LOP. the distance between the butplate and the trigger... Depends on your body type, arm length, do have a long neck (or not)
- Adjustable stocks are nice, since you can easily change things... Whether they're pretty or not, it's for you to decide.

But yeah, socializing at the club and trying as much stuff as you can is probably the best option.
Click to expand...

For clays a gun under 8lbs is not going to be comfortable to shoot any volume with. All my clay target guns are in excess of 8lbs and in the case of my main trap gun 9+lbs.

That weight eats up alot of recoil because even the best fitting gun still has recoil and when it comes to volume shooting repeated recoil is something you want to be able to tame.

From my experience trap is the one discipline that requires it's own gun. Skeet, sporting, 5-stand I can run a crossover or my field guns but for trap even just casual trap out comes my dedicated trap gun(s).
 
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Faast Andy said:
Single selective trigger? That term and LOP (length of pull?) are ones i need more info on…I suppose shouldering different ones is the way to go with these? Any thoughts on different stocks?
Click to expand...
Single selective trigger are just that. One trigger blade but has a switch usually built into the safety that allows you to choose the order the barrels fire. Top first or bottom first. Theres various ways to accomplish the switch whether its the placement of the safety switch when you take it off safe or a sliding switch located on the safety tab itself. Others have the switch inside the trigger gaurd
Dual triggers are faster for bird hunting
Clay games you generally know where the targets are coming from so its easy to prepare which barrel to fire first
 
brybenn said:
Single selective trigger are just that. One trigger blade but has a switch usually built into the safety that allows you to choose the order the barrels fire. Top first or bottom first. Theres various ways to accomplish the switch whether its the placement of the safety switch when you take it off safe or a sliding switch located on the safety tab itself. Others have the switch inside the trigger gaurd
Dual triggers are faster for bird hunting
Clay games you generally know where the targets are coming from so its easy to prepare which barrel to fire first
Click to expand...
Trying to operate a single selective trigger as a bird flushes, is a great way to end up with the selector part way , and the gun not firing. While I only use single trigger guns for clays, I hunt upland with two trigger SxS shotguns.
 
SuperCub said:
The adjustable stock made a huge difference for fit and eliminating cheek slap for me. Worth the extra cost for sure.

Now I can't blame poor fit for my poor shooting but at least it's more fun when I miss now. :)
Click to expand...
Thanks for the insight, I’m zeroing in on a final choice. Looking at the Stoeger Condor Competition as it is equipped with a full set of chokes, vented ribs, ported barrels and (for my rh model) a palm swell grip. Has all the options I wanted in the category for trying out the sport without the pricetag of most of the more prestigious brands.
 
All good ,you can purchase what you think is best ,those prestigious brands cost more for a reason ,but you can always upgrade if it does not work out ,heck most of us are in a constant state of that lol.
 
brybenn said:
If you want to get serious about clays a single selective trigger is best. Most clay guns have ejectors
If you're just out to shoot casually and have fun buy what ever you like that points where you look when you shoulder it.
As for dual triggers I shoot skeet and sporting with dual trigger sxs guns without issue. I also prefer it for hunting. While I prefer sxs over over unders I like single triggers in an ou
You dont need a high end clay marketed gun to break clays. Big name clay guns are built to withstand more use and are generally heavier and thicker than game guns. If you can master a consistent mount and shoot fast a game gun may suit you better

Id find a local skeet range and just go in and talk with shooters. Most guys will let you shoulder or even shoot their guns use that as a base line to see what fits you
Click to expand...
actually it's the opposite clay guns are built slimmer invspensive guns carry more weight leaser quality metals and less refining
because it costs labour money to refine a action and bbl's
the actions on entry level guns are always larger and heavier
 
Faast Andy said:
Thanks for the insight, I’m zeroing in on a final choice. Looking at the Stoeger Condor Competition as it is equipped with a full set of chokes, vented ribs, ported barrels and (for my rh model) a palm swell grip. Has all the options I wanted in the category for trying out the sport without the pricetag of most of the more prestigious brands.
Click to expand...
You don't just pay more for prestige, you pay more to be able to shoot a shotgun hundreds of thousands of rounds without issues. Any shotgun can have issues, but the quality shotguns have far fewer issues. I bought my current clays guns six years ago, one has about 40k rounds through it, the other has about 20k rounds through it, and zero issues from either one. We often see the cheaper Turkish guns fail within a few thousand rounds, and a couple of Stoeger O/U shotguns had firing pin issues ,pretty much from new.
 
struff55 said:
actually it's the opposite clay guns are built slimmer invspensive guns carry more weight leaser quality metals and less refining
because it costs labour money to refine a action and bbl's
the actions on entry level guns are always larger and heavier
Click to expand...
You may want to check the weights of competition clay guns vs cheap imports and game guns. Good quality Clay guns are built to take high volume shooting and reduce recoil
 
Faast Andy said:
Thanks for the insight, I’m zeroing in on a final choice. Looking at the Stoeger Condor Competition as it is equipped with a full set of chokes, vented ribs, ported barrels and (for my rh model) a palm swell grip. Has all the options I wanted in the category for trying out the sport without the pricetag of most of the more prestigious brands.
Click to expand...
I went thru the same process a couple of years ago when I started getting in to Trap. I decided to get an entry level Turkish O/U to try it out. I have been very fortunate to end up with a gun that has given me zero issues for the last two years. I picked up an Akkar-Churchill 812 Oxycap. I have over 5000 rounds thru it presently and have no complaints. However, there is a reality that you need to look at when buying a Turkish O/U. I will never get my money out of this gun, resale isn’t the best on these, and if it breaks something chances of getting warranty coverage is slim to none. That being said, this is a very enjoyable shotgun, has been used for youth and ladies intro to Trap on at least 4 occasions where it was run hard all day and never missed a beat.
I am now at the stage when I will be upgrading to a “B” gun, I’ve been looking hard at the Cynergy line, I like the look of them and the crossover models seem like they will fit my needs. The Churchill will become a loaner, I have no desire to sell it.
I have been fortunate to have numerous Trap guys let me shoot their higher end guns and there is definitely a difference, I understand that now lol.
Not to rain on your parade, but I know two friends who have bought the Condor Trap and both have failed within a couple of thousands rounds, both with firing pin issues.
If I were starting over again, I would be looking at a used “B” gun or Winchester 101 in the $1500 range. Good luck in your search, hope you find what works for you and you enjoy it 👍
 
stubblejumper said:
You don't just pay more for prestige, you pay more to be able to shoot a shotgun hundreds of thousands of rounds without issues. Any shotgun can have issues, but the quality shotguns have far fewer issues. I bought my current clays guns six years ago, one has about 40k rounds through it, the other has about 20k rounds through it, and zero issues from either one. We often see the cheaper Turkish guns fail within a few thousand rounds, and a couple of Stoeger O/U shotguns had firing pin issues ,pretty much from new.
Click to expand...
On top of that, if one buys a quality used gun at a fair price, that gun will retain most of it's value down the road whereas a new Stoeger will not.

There is good reason that the used "B" guns always get recommended. I bought a used Citori Hunter about 10 years ago and just sold that same gun for $450 more than what I paid for it.
 
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