:confused: Broke my LMT - MRP Locking Bolt!!!

+1 to the guys at questar!!!! They are a special order item, but got the notification from them today they had a couple and they are on their way! So range trip this weekend!

Thanks again to the guys at questar! Thumbs up! You will have more of my business when the funds allow it!
 
On closer inspection, got scared/frustrated after I found the broken bolt, the second bolt also broke! So the LMT bolts do work properly and just snap before damage is done to the rifle. I guess you do get what you pay for! I'm glad I have LMT! I will never do this again, it's off to the hardware store to purchase a proper torque wrench.
 
I am getting a LMT MRP soon and I have read a lot about bolt problems. So I have a few questions. Are these problems because of people just doing stupid things or should I be aware of any things not to do.

Also, I have been told to replace the torque wrench that comes with it. In particular one person told me it was “junk”. And now I see someone else say theirs was defective. What torque wrench are you guys using for your MRP? I looked around a bit and could not find anything that appeared to be of any higher quality.
 
50calshooter said:
BTW t1ctacal (Claven2?) you should man up and continue the discussion in your original cgn name, not use another account to do so.... How convenient that your first post is in this particular thread. :rolleyes:
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Pardon???

Any CGN mod can verify I post only from one name and one IP address.
 
Mirk said:
I am getting a LMT MRP soon and I have read a lot about bolt problems. So I have a few questions. Are these problems because of people just doing stupid things or should I be aware of any things not to do.

Also, I have been told to replace the torque wrench that comes with it. In particular one person told me it was “junk”. And now I see someone else say theirs was defective. What torque wrench are you guys using for your MRP? I looked around a bit and could not find anything that appeared to be of any higher quality.
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I think the issues relate directly ot over-torquing the factor ysupplied fasteners.

My opinion (and everyone has one) is that the design is good, but either the supplied torque wrenches are not calibrated to tight enough tolerance, or some of the fasteners are yielding at lower torque than the design value.

This doesn;t make it a bad product, just a QA issue with either the bolts or the wrenches - this is assuming it's nto simple user error, which it could also be.

I wouldn't let that stop me from buying one.
 
Mirk said:
I am getting a LMT MRP soon and I have read a lot about bolt problems. So I have a few questions. Are these problems because of people just doing stupid things or should I be aware of any things not to do.

Also, I have been told to replace the torque wrench that comes with it. In particular one person told me it was “junk”. And now I see someone else say theirs was defective. What torque wrench are you guys using for your MRP? I looked around a bit and could not find anything that appeared to be of any higher quality.
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Mine was a stupid mistake, but it appears the bolts will give out before you can cause damage to the receiver. The torque wrench I got with it will be replaced. It's lowest setting is 120 inch pounds and then it goes all the way up into the 400 inch pound area, I think. But once you pass the 120 mark it is almost impossible to figure out where you are until you hit the next mark at 240. So it's my first torque wrench but it's not marked very clearly and I will replace it because of this event.

But questar is excellent I'm glad they are the guys standing behind LMT. Get an MRP I love mine.
 
I already bought the LMT! I am just waiting for it to get to me.

I am mainly wondering about this so called torque wrench now. Apparently a lot of people aren’t very trusting of it so I was thinking of picking one up before the LMT arrives. I just got no clue where to find a good quality one that is suitable.

And, yes the guys at Questar are awesome, especially Mark, he hooked me up.
 
If you want really good quality, get something like snapon - but frankly, that's overkill if this is all you use it for.

Maybe get a mastercraft next time it comes on sale - will probably be fine.
 
Claven2 said:
Maybe get a mastercraft next time it comes on sale - will probably be fine.
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aka "mastercrap". Given that it appears to be a precise torque requirement, the cheapest I'd go would be Craftsman. A good torque wrench is a lifetime investment, doesn't hurt to pony up for something that will reliably do what it is supposed to.
 
AFAIK, the Craftsman stuff is made in the same Taiwanese factory as the better mastercraft wrenches.

Anyhow, most wrenches will advertise their tolerance unless you get one of the craptastic Princess Auto wrenches.

Just buy one that will suit your needs wrt tolerances.
 
If the instructions say to torque the fastener 'dry' or 'unlubricated', then do that. Don't add anything in that case! If it says lube, then do that...

The force in the screw that you will end up applying at the specified torque will be much higher for a lubricated thread than for a dry thread. That is why you must follow their instruction to the t.

That appears to me to be a custom shoulder bolt with a ground shank and cut threads. Not some hardware store mass produced item.
 
No TQ wrench works well if the value you want is at the begining or end of its range.

i:e , you want 140 in-lbs? Then find one with that spec in the MIDDLE of its range.

Anything that low of TQ requires just hand snug really, use a multi screwdriver with the right hex and snug it good, you wont be able to TQ much more than that anyway.
 
Yeah, I used to work at a Crappy Tire and IMHO "Mastercrap" pretty much sums it up. Also, I already know Snap-On is above and beyond my needs and price range. The one that appears to come with the LMT looks to be on par with Princess Auto; in fact I wouldn't be surprised if it was the same one.

I used to do a lot of automotive repair work and have a full Craftsmen tool set including torque wrench. Just happens to be I never needed anything for 140 inch pounds and don't have one that goes so low. My needs now being firearms and not cars I was wondering what other LMT owners are using. Ideally I need something for all my firearms needs. Is the general consensus just to us any torque wrench?
 
ESQ said:
If the instructions say to torque the fastener 'dry' or 'unlubricated', then do that. Don't add anything in that case! If it says lube, then do that...

The force in the screw that you will end up applying at the specified torque will be much higher for a lubricated thread than for a dry thread. That is why you must follow their instruction to the t.

That appears to me to be a custom shoulder bolt with a ground shank and cut threads. Not some hardware store mass produced item.
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I don't believe LMT specifies dry or lubed. I have read the instruction books on their website and don't recall anything about it.
 
If you want a good inch-pound torque driver, get a Utica. Picked one up on a US site for about $90 usd, and comes with a calibration certificate. If you're tightening a lot of stuff on expensive items ( scope rings, action screws, and apparently MRP bolts!), it will pay for itself quickly.
 
Adamg_55 said:
Mine was a stupid mistake, but it appears the bolts will give out before you can cause damage to the receiver. The torque wrench I got with it will be replaced. It's lowest setting is 120 inch pounds and then it goes all the way up into the 400 inch pound area, I think. But once you pass the 120 mark it is almost impossible to figure out where you are until you hit the next mark at 240. So it's my first torque wrench but it's not marked very clearly and I will replace it because of this event.

But questar is excellent I'm glad they are the guys standing behind LMT. Get an MRP I love mine.
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Mirk said:
I already bought the LMT! I am just waiting for it to get to me.

I am mainly wondering about this so called torque wrench now. Apparently a lot of people aren’t very trusting of it so I was thinking of picking one up before the LMT arrives. I just got no clue where to find a good quality one that is suitable.

And, yes the guys at Questar are awesome, especially Mark, he hooked me up.
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Hey mistakes happen and I did the same thing, most people are more familiar with foot pounds rather then inch pounds so it can be a learning curve to get the feel for it.

My supplied torque wrench came set from factory and I kept going, waiting to hear the click or for it to break. It never did, and with me being more familiar with foot pounds I didn't have a feel for it to begin with.

I went to Acklands and bought a killer torque wrench, a Stanley PROTO (~$200 bucks but worth the investment IMO) it clicks and breaks free smooth, no problem. One thing I read in the instructions is that after use make sure to return the torque wrench to zero/lowest setting for storage. This rang alarm bells for me because all the LMT torque wrenches get set from factory and then sit for who knows how long. Perhaps thats why a couple have been failing.

Anyway you will find as an LMT owner that Questar & LMT will bend over backwards to make you happy, just amazing customer support all around. The guys at LMT made a point to call me and follow up on my purchase after all the torque wrench stuff was settled.


Claven2 said:
AFAIK, the Craftsman stuff is made in the same Taiwanese factory as the better mastercraft wrenches.

Anyhow, most wrenches will advertise their tolerance unless you get one of the craptastic Princess Auto wrenches.

Just buy one that will suit your needs wrt tolerances.
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BTW I was just buggin' ya earlier :p

And all the torque wrenches from LMT are stamped made in china so it's no wonder a few have been un-reliable...
 
Looking through my standard fasterner catalogue the generic black oxide torx bolts dont come with a class rating in that finish. Sounds like they could be abit brittle.
 
50calshooter said:
Correction, maby both of you should consult to LMT. Clearly your knowledge in the design and engineering of their uppers is vastly superior to that of their own. :rolleyes:

BTW t1ctacal (Claven2?) you should man up and continue the discussion in your original cgn name, not use another account to do so.... How convenient that your first post is in this particular thread. :rolleyes:
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BTW, call out posts and what you just posted are not allowed. You are also incorrect about the multi account accusations. Enough of this.
 
it actually doesnt matter if you return the torque wrench to zero after use, spring steel can sit under tension for an infinite time period and still keep exactly the same spring rate. The only thing that can affect it is heat, corrosion, chemical and exceding its yield point.
 
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