Cooey 12g 840 model help

Yes might be a bit before I have it completely finished, working in healthcare you don’t have a lot of free time. I just got my hands on some circa 1850 paint and varnish remover!! Just have to do the barrel and then I can start on the wood. I do have a few pieces all finished, I’ll take some pics of the few things I’ve done so far.
 
Well so far I have been able to strip the gun down and clean it all up and I reblued the action, I think it looks okay. Just wish it was able to go a bit darker, but unfortunately this is as dark as it will get. 3-5coats is the spot it seems. All though the hammer is like REALLY hard to pull, VERY stiff spring.

Here some pics so far, what do you guys think ??







 
I’m just still a bit Leary on fully submerging the barrel for inside/outside, I can see some rust inside the barrel, mostly where you would slide a shell in
 
If you haven’t tried it yet. Wrap a 12g brush or mop on a section of rod with some steel wool, spray some oil on and put it in a drip and spin away for awhile. Make sure you wrap enough steel wool to get a snug fit while it spins, it will remove the rust and polish the chamber/barrel. Start there and see how it looks.
 
Butcherbill said:
If you haven’t tried it yet. Wrap a 12g brush or mop on a section of rod with some steel wool, spray some oil on and put it in a drip and spin away for awhile. Make sure you wrap enough steel wool to get a snug fit while it spins, it will remove the rust and polish the chamber/barrel. Start there and see how it looks.
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I never would have thought of that lol I’ll give that a try tomorrow after work :))
 
I did exactly that on a friend's older Model 12 Winchester - the steel wool polished that chamber more clean than I think it had been in 30 years!!! He was getting sticky extraction some times - once that chamber was shiny clean, looks like a mirror in there - all his problems went away.

If you were going to try to do the whole length of the barrel - might have to watch that you keep the cleaning rod centered - I do not think you want it dragging on the inside - likely better to go half way from muzzle and half way from chamber end.
 
Butcherbill said:
It’s works great, if I need to clean plastic wad fouling from a barrel it’s the only way I do it now.
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Well I gave it a shot and I still have rust spots inside but it’s as smooth as glass in there when feeling with finger. Maybe I should just dip entire barrel in the rust remover 🤔






 
Butcherbill said:
You might have to, hard to get into the pitting/low spots with steel wool.
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Ya ThTs what I was thinking as much as I don’t wanna I think I might have to, I just don’t the idea of the inside of the barrel being porous is all. As any rust no matter how deep it is will be removed and can leave the metal very rough and porous like. Dunno how I would reblue the inside of the barrel tho is all either ��
 
Try wrapping a metal Brillo type pad around the brush/mop instead of steel wool, you should be able to find one that’s brass or steel. It might get into the pitting better. Or if you can find some kind of oversize brass bore brush, maybe a 50bmg brush. I don’t know if it would have stiffer bristles than a .12g brush?

You’ll need something that will get into the crevices of those pits, if you had to reblue it I’d just really soak a big enough cotton patch in cold blue and push it through a few times. Make it out of an old t-shirt or rag.

As far as the evaporust, I would find some polished steel with no rust on it and see what a soak did to it. I’m guessing if it’s not acidic like vinegar it won’t etch the polished surface of the barrel, and if it did you could try polishing it with steel wool and oil or something soft and mothers paste polish. I mean it’s just a smooth pipe, it’s not rifled so even if it’s not shiny smooth whatever shells your shooting aren’t going to really notice it if I had to guess.
 
Get a can of Fluid Film.
Shake the chit out of it.
Spray a generous amount in there and let it sit over night.
Get a stiff barrel brush and a short cleaning rod.
Stuff the end of the rod into a variable speed drill.
Secure the barrel into a soft jawed clamping device.
You should be able to figure the rest out from here.
 
Hmm maybe a small piece of sponge pushed down the tube with cold bluing on it would do the trick ?! Evaporust is made with all natural stuff, non toxic and no acid. I mean I guess I could just soak entire barrel and just stuff either a rag or sponge down the tube and then do outside as well. If the rifle gets shot after this it’ll likely be bird shot for skeet shooting or whichever
 
Why are you trying to blue the bore? I hope you realize that rust and pitting go hand-in-hand. You may remove the red stuff but the previously polished metal surface will show pitting. If the pitting is sufficient, it will bind the shell head upon firing, making ejection/extraction difficult.
The question begs - is there sufficient pitting to hamper extraction? Suggest you do a test when you've got the gun together, and then decide if remedy is needed. For the last 150 years, shotgun bores were honed to restore polish. You can do the same with emery cloth - thats what a lot of gunsmiths do to polish chambers.
 
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BrownR said:
Hmm maybe a small piece of sponge pushed down the tube with cold bluing on it would do the trick ?! Evaporust is made with all natural stuff, non toxic and no acid. I mean I guess I could just soak entire barrel and just stuff either a rag or sponge down the tube and then do outside as well. If the rifle gets shot after this it’ll likely be bird shot for skeet shooting or whichever
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On the container of it that I have here, it says it works on a chelation principle - it is NOT an acid - it will NOT grab or harm non-rusted steel or iron - but it WILL latch on to rust - which is iron or steel combined with oxygen. It is not an acid - does not work like muriatic acid, or vinegar to remove rust (bluing) - a different process, entirely.

I had a rusted up made-in-China clevis that had been riding around in our side-by-side - could not even turn the shank of it - I poured evaporust into a jar and dropped that clevis in there - let it soak overnight, or maybe a couple overnights - that clevis is back working and back riding in the side-by-side. I never did scrub or wire wheel it - just wiped with cloth towel.
 
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