Corrosive ammo cleaning...help.

Mermaniel

Mermaniel

CGN Regular
Rating - 100%
79   0   0
Hey guys,
I can't find a thread with this info which I find odd...I've read everywhere that people clean their rifles with boiling water...I'm not crazy to the idea plus, might make a bit of a mess. Also dont wanna put boiling water on the gastube, piston, op rod and internals...

Anyone know of a solvent or liquid I can spray in the bore and other parts to neutralize the salts? Id rather do it that way and use a Scott towel, brushes and mops to clean the parts. then oil it.

Ive read that Hoppes 9 doesnt neutralize the salts...anyone knows of what does?

Brakefree CLP or other stuff?

thanks for the help.
 
There is lots of info on here about this very thing. Also google is your friend and will confirm that boiling water is exactly the ticket. It works, dries fast and is guaranteed to neutralize the salts. Rinse with water, let dry (or use a little compressed air) and clean as normal. You don't need any wonder juice of any kind for corrosive ammo, remember, all ammo was corrosive only a few short decades ago, and their guns didn't magically fall apart or rust to pieces.
 
Windex.

Seriously, there is nothing wrong with boiling water down the barrel and gas tube. Since it heats up the metal it dries almost instantly when you stop pouring. I wouldn't pour it all over the rifle.
 
Mermaniel said:
What about the internals? Bolt, Bolt carrier? How do you clean these? Do corrosive salts end up on them?
Click to expand...

The other day I ran 30 rounds of Cz surplus or so through my 858, and sprayed a bunch of CLP down the barrel later that night. I kept looking down the barrel to make sure no rust was forming, and it didn't.
I cleaned it... two days later I think and there was nothing in the BCG or piston as far as rust goes. Lots of carbon and stuff, but no rust.
It's really barrel and gas tube that needs cleaned well. I used windex, then copper/lead/powder solvent, then CLP then gave it a good oiling after it was clean enough for my needs. The last couple times I've just scrubbed it really well with solvent and CLP.
 
I use windex (regular, no other additives) on the barrel and gas tube

Then solvent (Hoppes 9 is my fav choice) to get rid of any remaining crud, fowling, etc

And top it off with a thin film of oil (Rem Oil is my fav choice) to prevent rust and its good to go
 
For cleaning out corrosive ammo salts WD40 works great ! (for cleaning only not lubrication) its cheap and you can buy it anywhere .. After cleaning i wipe all the WD40 off the gun and run a dry patch through the barrel to get it all out, then i lube the gun with ballistol or break free .. i have never had a rust problem in 10 years of shooting corrosive ammo , i tried to use just ballistol once for cleaning and had rust start in the bore a week later .. Every 500 rounds or so i will use hoppes9 just to remove copper fouling ..
 
Bcviking said:
For cleaning out corrosive ammo salts WD40 works great ! (for cleaning only not lubrication) its cheap and you can buy it anywhere .. After cleaning i wipe all the WD40 off the gun and run a dry patch through the barrel to get it all out, then i lube the gun with ballistol or break free .. i have never had a rust problem in 10 years of shooting corrosive ammo , i tried to use just ballistol once for cleaning and had rust start in the bore a week later .. Every 500 rounds or so i will use hoppes9 just to remove copper fouling ..
Click to expand...

Good ole WD, it is even in the CZ manual.;)
I have used it for years as well with corrosive, no rust.
 
ya i tried cleaning my sks the conventional way( brush+gun cleaner) and guess what, next time i pull the gun out of my safe its all brown surface rust on the inside of the action and barrel. i guess the oil and solvent doesnt dissolve the salt found in the primer. since then i use boiling water and some times i get lazy and just run boiling water down the gun and not run gun cleaner down the barrel and no rust accrued after its been sitting for weeks.
 
I think that the owner's manual supplied with the 858 even says to clean with WD40. It is a bit of a solvent and rust preventative in and of itself. I don't see why it wouldn't work.
 
Hot Water +

P1070836.jpg



P1070837.jpg



It makes flushing the bore, etc, very mess free :).
 
Cleaning

Mermaniel said:
Hey guys,

WELL , HEY THERE.

I can't find a thread with this info which I find odd...I've read everywhere that people clean their rifles with boiling water...I'm not crazy to the idea plus, might make a bit of a mess. Also dont wanna put boiling water on the gastube, piston, op rod and internals...

1) STRIP THE RIFLE. REMOVE THE HAND GAURDS, CARRIER AND THE PISTON ETC.
PUT THE RIFLE BAREL DOWN IN YOUR KITCHEN SINK.
BOIL A KETTLE AND POUR THAT WATER IN THE BREECH AND DOWN THE BAREL AND GAS TUBE.
THE WATER WILL BE SO HOT THAT IT WILL EVAPORATE OFF.

Anyone know of a solvent or liquid I can spray in the bore and other parts to neutralize the salts? Id rather do it that way and use a Scott towel, brushes and mops to clean the parts. then oil it.

2) SPRAY THE RIFLE DOWN WITH "SLIP 2000" WATER BASED GUN DEGREASER.
RUN FIVE OR SIX PATCHES THROUGH THE BAREL WITH SLIP 2000 ON THE PATCHES AND THEN USE THE PATCHES TO WIPE OUT YOUR BREECH AND CHAMBER. SLIP 2000 IS WATER BASED AND WITH DISSOLVE THE SALTS.
3) RUN A PATCH WITH LIGHT LUBE THROUGH THE BAREL AND THEN WIPE THE BREECH.
4) USE HEAVY LITHIUM GREASE TO LUBE THE CARRIER RAILS.
5) USE "SLIP 2000" WATER BASED GUN DEGREASER TO SPRAY DOWN AND WIPE YOUR PISTON, SPRING, BOLT, ETC.
6) LIGHTLY ( AND I MEAN LIGHTLY ) WIPE THESE COMPONENTS DOWN WITH LUBE.
7) REASSEMBLE THE RIFLE.
8) TAKE THE RIFLE TO THE RANGE AND MAKE DIRTY AGAIN.

Ive read that Hoppes 9 doesnt neutralize the salts...anyone knows of what does?

Brakefree CLP or other stuff?

REMEMBER, IT'S FIGHTING RIFLE, NOT A FERRARI.

thanks for the help.
Click to expand...


WELL , HEY THERE.

I can't find a thread with this info which I find odd...I've read everywhere that people clean their rifles with boiling water...I'm not crazy to the idea plus, might make a bit of a mess. Also dont wanna put boiling water on the gastube, piston, op rod and internals...

1) STRIP THE RIFLE. REMOVE THE HAND GAURDS, CARRIER AND THE PISTON ETC.
PUT THE RIFLE BAREL DOWN IN YOUR KITCHEN SINK.
BOIL A KETTLE AND POUR THAT WATER IN THE BREECH AND DOWN THE BAREL AND GAS TUBE.
THE WATER WILL BE SO HOT THAT IT WILL EVAPORATE OFF.

Anyone know of a solvent or liquid I can spray in the bore and other parts to neutralize the salts? Id rather do it that way and use a Scott towel, brushes and mops to clean the parts. then oil it.

2) SPRAY THE RIFLE DOWN WITH "SLIP 2000" WATER BASED GUN DEGREASER.
RUN FIVE OR SIX PATCHES THROUGH THE BAREL WITH SLIP 2000 ON THE PATCHES AND THEN USE THE PATCHES TO WIPE OUT YOUR BREECH AND CHAMBER. SLIP 2000 IS WATER BASED AND WITH DISSOLVE THE SALTS.
3) RUN A PATCH WITH LIGHT LUBE THROUGH THE BAREL AND THEN WIPE THE BREECH.
4) USE HEAVY LITHIUM GREASE TO LUBE THE CARRIER RAILS.
5) USE "SLIP 2000" WATER BASED GUN DEGREASER TO SPRAY DOWN AND WIPE YOUR PISTON, SPRING, BOLT, ETC.
6) LIGHTLY ( AND I MEAN LIGHTLY ) WIPE THESE COMPONENTS DOWN WITH LUBE.
7) REASSEMBLE THE RIFLE.
8) TAKE THE RIFLE TO THE RANGE AND MAKE DIRTY AGAIN.

Ive read that Hoppes 9 doesnt neutralize the salts...anyone knows of what does?

Brakefree CLP or other stuff?

REMEMBER, IT'S FIGHTING RIFLE, NOT A FERRARI.

thanks for the help.[/QUOTE]
 
Training VS Plinking

I'm sorry but there are several schools of thought here.

If you run 30 rounds of corrosive ammo through your VZ/CZ you probably aren't going to get much corrosion even if you didn't clean it at all.

I have over 10,000 rounds through my rifles and on some training days at the range I run between 200-300 rounds through it in the rain.

That's when you really figure out what works.

Shoot--strip--boiling water--slip 2000--patches--wipe--lube--reassemble--repeat.

WD40 does not dissolve salt.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom