I would totally do a v22 action instead
Basically three things are tunable on a .22LR reamer. The body diameter, body taper and throat angle. Using a reamer that does not have the rim portion on it, you can set bullet engraving to whatever you like. This was the part Mr. Stiller explained in detail as the most critical. Doing a cut and measuring how much of a loaded round is sticking out positive of the bolt closed position. Just as important is throat prep in regards to no burrs and smoothness of finish. Of course the crown is critical, and having it on a barrel with continuous taper from proper lapping. Starting with an action of proven pedigree and following the rest of sound practices in regards to bedding whether pillared or glued spin from the CF BR world. Rimfire magic is all (ammo lots) chamber, throat and bore.
Basically three things are tunable on a .22LR reamer. The body diameter, body taper and throat angle. Using a reamer that does not have the rim portion on it, you can set bullet engraving to whatever you like. This was the part Mr. Stiller explained in detail as the most critical. Doing a cut and measuring how much of a loaded round is sticking out positive of the bolt closed position. Just as important is throat prep in regards to no burrs and smoothness of finish. Of course the crown is critical, and having it on a barrel with continuous taper from proper lapping. Starting with an action of proven pedigree and following the rest of sound practices in regards to bedding whether pillared or glued spin from the CF BR world. Rimfire magic is all (ammo lots) chamber, throat and bore.
PGW Steve;15931089tuner said:Meh, nothing in your list that I need to out shoot you.........
OP, sorry for the thread hi-jack.
Yes, I have a lot to learn, but I'm fascinated as to what it takes to make these rimfire guns and what's involved in shooting. I assume you meant Bill Calfee as the man to talk to. I will certainly use the data they have compiled. It makes no sense to not listen. Glad they spent the money and time I don't have.there are a couple rich guys in the USA that have the time and money to play, send them a thank you card for doing all the research for us as they have chambered barrels with 4 degrees all the way down to 1 degree and everything in between, the luxury of them having an indoor range and 4 rifles to compare notes with has shown us that 1.5 degree leade gives the most consistent groups between all 4 rifles and all ammo shot. We can take their wealth of proven info and run with it, or we can fight it trying to prove them wrong, neither you or I have the time or money to prove them wrong or right, so go 1.5 degrees and send them a thank you card.
the only thing you really have to sort out when ordering a reamer is the freebore, which isn't really freebore on a rimfire chamber but we know what it is and it relates the same to the cartridge, but again, these guys have spent nothing but money chambering and testing .......if you want the best answer I'd call Bill and tell him that your buying your ammo in 2019 and you'd like to know what reamer they have had the best luck with......he's a nice guy and wants to see everyone win and he won't hold back info, he is also going to use you as a test subject, if your rifle shoots it will be another feather in his cap.
Yes you want a choked barrel, to further stabilize the bullet before it leaves the barrel you need every ounce of help you can get, then you want to get into front rest location tuning, rear bag location tuning, and finally barrel tuner settings, rimfire is the hardest rifle to shoot on the bench, but if you can master it, centerfire becomes boring
Yes, I have a lot to learn, but I'm fascinated as to what it takes to make these rimfire guns and what's involved in shooting. I assume you meant Bill Calfee as the man to talk to. I will certainly use the data they have compiled. It makes no sense to not listen. Glad they spent the money and time I don't have.
I'd like to thank you and Jefferson also. Knowledge is hard earned, not given.
You're right on Bill Calfee, he's paved us a pretty smooth road and hasn't been afraid to share his findings with us at no cost, for this I think it's important to thank him every chance we get.
where the front rest sits under the stock, and where he rear bag sit are very important and by moving them to find the sweet spot you can tune your rifle in ways unimaginable as well as in ways that don't transfer over to centerfire rifles, you just can't take a rimfire benchrest rifle and have it shoot, you need to tune everything imaginable in order to make it shoot, once you have found all the sweet spots it becomes pure amazement at just what they are capable of doing
Just out of curiosity - how much of this theory and technique could be carried back to a factory rifle a guy would like to squeeze every bit of accuracy possible out of?
all of it, they all share the same harmonics. a bullet leaving the muzzle at 1050 FPS is in the barrel 2 and a half to 3 times longer then in the barrel in a centerfire rifle, that's a LOT more time for external effects on it before it leaves the barrel, if your harmonic wave is in a different spot everytime a bullet leaves to fly on it's own for the first time, it's flight path will be altered from the one before and the one after. We're not talking minute of gopher in this game, we're talking fractions of an inch, small fractions. Bare in mind the X ring on a BR50 target is 1/16 of an inch, sounds pretty easy to hit 25 times in a row at 50 meters doesn't it, I mean the bullet is easily 4 times the size of the target.......or so wrong.....and oh so humbling......but to take your sporter down form 7/8 inch to under 1/2 inch at 50 meters with the right ammo, tuning will definitely help
it's way off topic of this thread, but if there is enough interest and if everyone wants to behave and be civil I can walk everyone through it with a ton of pictures and useful information, of course in a new dedicated thread, or i can just write a book and sell it to you.......
You're right on Bill Calfee, he's paved us a pretty smooth road and hasn't been afraid to share his findings with us at no cost, for this I think it's important to thank him every chance we get.
where the front rest sits under the stock, and where he rear bag sit are very important and by moving them to find the sweet spot you can tune your rifle in ways unimaginable as well as in ways that don't transfer over to centerfire rifles, you just can't take a rimfire benchrest rifle and have it shoot, you need to tune everything imaginable in order to make it shoot, once you have found all the sweet spots it becomes pure amazement at just what they are capable of doing
Bill Calfee, he's paved us a pretty smooth road and hasn't been afraid to share his findings with us at no cost
I'd buy that book in a heartbeat! But if you wanted to fire up a new thread, I for one would be very interested, and appreciative.
I don't think he gave his books away however...
When he was active in a US forum I used to frequent, he sure riled a few people up. He never would give a straight answer to a question. I had the same experience when we corresponded. He would offer clues but it seemed he wanted you to figure it out... a bit of a different guy.
never heard of anyone win anything big and noteworthy with lapua ammo, well maybe the 10 meter indoor position guys, but when it comes to benchrest or IBS score it's eley or nothing. Lapua makes great ammo for sloppy factory chambers, eley is the ammo to go to for custom anything