Custom AR15 Build

Okay, would a 9mm buffer work? Or would the length be a problem?

You'd need to remove the spacer that comes with the Spikes' unit (ST-9BS/ST-T29mm combo) if that's what your looking at. Outside of the spacer it's just a regular T2 Buffer. I'd throw an ad on the EE or keep watch for an H2 there first before waiting on BO'd Spikes parts.
 
Half my build is back order right now, so it's not really a problem. I just wish Canada had more companies manufacturing AR parts


You'd need to remove the spacer that comes with the Spikes' unit (ST-9BS/ST-T29mm combo) if that's what your looking at. Outside of the spacer it's just a regular T2 Buffer. I'd throw an ad on the EE or keep watch for an H2 there first before waiting on BO'd Spikes parts.
 
I use a HeavyBuffers .com A/T kit. Yes, the company's name is "HeavyBuffers".

I run a piston kit so I got an A/T bufferfor good measure, but only have one lower so I use it with all my AR upper including DI.

It's weight adjustable so I've played with the tuning. So far I dig 6oz for all my DI uppers.

If my info is correct, a 9mm buffer is over 8oz, you don't need to go that heavy.

A T2 would be a step in the right direction at 4.3oz, but if I was going to spend that much, I'd probably get a HeavyBuffers HSS @ 6.5oz.

An H3 at 5.4oz would be a good sweet spot I think, but I'm not sure where to get one. If you look into HeavyBuffers, I think they offer custom weights if you ask for it.

I've been playing with buffers a lot lately, tuning the timing in my rifle build so this subject is fresh in my mind.

I like heavy buffer because, for one, the brass will cast behind me at 4 o'clock, which means it will mostly stay on the shooting desk instead of being chucked out in front of the shooting line where I can't get it till ceasefire, and have to hunt for it in the snow and/or grass.
Also, I'm a reloader, I find that the advanced timing is not only easier on the brass, but it also give the combustion time to reduce making for easier extraction and less blowback.
So, my rifle runs just a bit cleaner, and my brass lasts longer.

There is no rush, your rifle WILL work with the standard buffer, but it will defiantly run more aggressively and wear faster (in theory).
You know you're too light when you get extractor slip FTE's, and they say if your brass is casting earlier then 3 o'clock then you timing to too lean.
 
Thanks for the info!
What if I could get a 9mm buffer at 4.5oz? It's a solid piece of stainless steel with the plastic (is it plastic or rubber?) cap as far as I can tell
And I don't reload... yet.
Really glad I made this thread :D

I use a HeavyBuffers .com A/T kit. Yes, the company's name is "HeavyBuffers".

I run a piston kit so I got an A/T bufferfor good measure, but only have one lower so I use it with all my AR upper including DI.

It's weight adjustable so I've played with the tuning. So far I dig 6oz for all my DI uppers.

If my info is correct, a 9mm buffer is over 8oz, you don't need to go that heavy.

A T2 would be a step in the right direction at 4.3oz, but if I was going to spend that much, I'd probably get a HeavyBuffers HSS @ 6.5oz.

An H3 at 5.4oz would be a good sweet spot I think, but I'm not sure where to get one. If you look into HeavyBuffers, I think they offer custom weights if you ask for it.

I've been playing with buffers a lot lately, tuning the timing in my rifle build so this subject is fresh in my mind.

I like heavy buffer because, for one, the brass will cast behind me at 4 o'clock, which means it will mostly stay on the shooting desk instead of being chucked out in front of the shooting line where I can't get it till ceasefire, and have to hunt for it in the snow and/or grass.
Also, I'm a reloader, I find that the advanced timing is not only easier on the brass, but it also give the combustion time to reduce making for easier extraction and less blowback.
So, my rifle runs just a bit cleaner, and my brass lasts longer.

There is no rush, your rifle WILL work with the standard buffer, but it will defiantly run more aggressively and wear faster (in theory).
You know you're too light when you get extractor slip FTE's, and they say if your brass is casting earlier then 3 o'clock then you timing to too lean.
 
If your in no rush Questar is showing LMT H2 @ $31 and Spikes' T2 @ $45 avail for Custom orders. Delivery times not withstanding
 
A solid piece of stainless ? What buffer is this ? You defiantly don't want it if it's solid.

A good buffer has moving counterweights inside of them. They act as a dead blow hammer to stop your bolt from bouncing back out of battery after it slams shuts.
This is called carrier bounce. When tuning your rifle your aim is also to reduce or eliminate carrier bounce, so you need those moving weights inside and solid buffers can be bad news.

I imagine the 9mm system being different does not need these weights, but a 223/5.56 AR def' does.
That's another reason a heavy buffer is a good thing, they are often made of the same material, but have heavier weights inside to add to the dead blow effect.

Watch this clip, notice how the carrier bounces back after feeding:
[youtube]y2GeugjmeF0[/youtube]

Here's another vid comparing various buffers.

You'll notice how the ST, 9mm, and standard carbine buffers have the most bounce, and how some of the heavier ones, and ones designed for a 5.56 AR have the least.

[youtube]575Q0O41u5s[/youtube]
 
I prefer the Large latch, I can grab onto it with and rack with just my left hand.

You already have a tac latch with your LMT according to your list so that should give you the same effect.
 
I was told the pin will break after awhile due to the leverage and force on the pin

I prefer the Large latch, I can grab onto it with and rack with just my left hand.

You already have a tac latch with your LMT according to your list so that should give you the same effect.
 
Hmm, I got a bad feeling about that YHM buffer.

My buffer is stainless, and it's 4oz empty, so the weights inside can't be that heavy. I'd stay away from it.

Like I said before, if you're going to spend that much on a buffer, check out heavybuffers .com

One Shot Tactical has a Knights Armament SR-15 Buffer in stock it seems, I'd ask them the weight of it. I THINK it's an H2.
 
I was told the pin will break after awhile due to the leverage and force on the pin

Yeah probably, but that's a while down the road.
I have both a BCM large latch, and a standard handle with a tac latch.
The standard handle with the tac latch, I bought used and it's well used, and hasn't given up yet.
If you have those parts already, I'd go ahead and use them.

If you have afford the BCM, why not, it's a slick looking handle.
What' I'd try is, use the handle you have with the tac latch, see if you like the oversized latch, then you can judge which BCM you'd rather have.
 
XH you mean ? I think that is overkill.

The HSS should be more then enough.

If the design is anything like mine, which it should, yeah, you could adjust it my removing the pin, taking the rubber off, and playing with the weights.
The same thing goes for a standard buffer, but they are already maxed out, unless you had weights of a heavier material.

Inside there will be 3 weights. My guess is they have a combo of steel and tungsten to add up to 6.5oz. But they might all be tungsten, and then might not be a standard size.
You'd have to ask them.

I'd bet that the XH is 3 standard size tungsten weights, you could swap out weights with the steel ones that come in your standard carbine buffer to bring it down in weight if you want. It's more expensive tho, and there is no point paying that much money just to bring the weight down . . . UNLESS, you use the spare tungsten weights you pull out in your other buffers, like your NEA to make it heavier.

You'd be getting experimental at this point. HSS if you want a drop results, XH if you want to experiment. XH might be tooo heavy with weak ammo like MFS steel.
You can shoot them an email, there communication is good when I dealt with them. Chances are you could get a buffer of a custom weight, like H3 5.4oz, then you KNOW it's going to work well. I've only one as high as 6.0oz, so I cannot vouch for the extra 0.5oz.


You know, there is a-whole-nother direction you can go in . . .

Instead of a heavy buffer, you could keep a light one, and get an adjustable gas block, and just dial down your gas pressure . . .

That is one of my next conquests, but that's more a precision OBR way of doing things. Not sure I'd want to go that direction in a Carbine.
 
MFS steel is pretty brutal sometimes.

Just ask questions, find out first if you can tune down their XH with standard steel weights out of a standard carbine buffer.

I'm out for the evening, reply later if you have more questions.
 
Kratos, thanks for creating this thread, it's bringing up some good points to think on. Conte, Thanks for the info on buffers, I had no idea on how they affected the rifle. And another (slightly off-topic) question: At what barrel length in Canada is considered a SBR? I know in the US, under a 16 inches is a SBR, but that's a legal term.
 
I think it would be the same, as it has no effect on legal status here. SBRs should be under 16"

Edit: looked it up, it's a US thing. Less then 16" barrel or 26" overall
Kratos, thanks for creating this thread, it's bringing up some good points to think on. Conte, Thanks for the info on buffers, I had no idea on how they affected the rifle. And another (slightly off-topic) question: At what barrel length in Canada is considered a SBR? I know in the US, under a 16 inches is a SBR, but that's a legal term.
 
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