CZ 455 Canadian Bedding Report *Update w/bore scope pics*

Yeah Chilly I first used a new sighttron SII on it, then swapped to the bushnell I had on my savage which we know made the 1/2" challenge. The sighttron is currently on my .270 and accuracy of that rifle notwithstanding it's shot plenty of sub 1" groups at 100 yards including a personal record 0.222" group. One "bad" group of 1.8" I will blame on the load. So the sighttron can take the beating of centerfire and post better 100 yard groups than .22 at 50 yards.

I would squawk at CZ that the bedding/stock is irrelevant to the barreled action being defective and actually not send my stock in to them just the barreled action if it came to it.

Pillars basically just arrest compression of the wood in the stock. Pillars can be used in other style rifles to lift the action slightly in the stock to free float the barrel and achieve accuracy. For our rifles glass bedding is needed to set the action in place and get the accuracy benefit.
 
yodave said:
okay 2 questions.......

why did you decide to bed so much of the barrel ahead of the action? personally I would grind that bedding out and completely free float the barrel, including the chamber.

When you dry fire the rifle, awesome feature of the CZ is you can do this and not damage the chamber or firing pin, is there a soft click of the firing pin or a loud thud? Ever had the bolt apart? is there to much oil and or grease in around the firing pin effecting its performance on the inner workings? want to try a striker spring upgrade before throwing in the towel on this one??
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I based the amount of barrel bedding on the experience and wisdom of Djdilliodon on RFC who has found that 3 inches of barrel bedding does very well for most 455's. The bedding has really had no effect on the erratic accuracy of the rifle. What I'm seeing is a problem going much beyond a simple bedding fix.

The firing pin makes a pleasing "thwack!" sound with consistent pitch (musician's ears) so I'm not detecting weak strikes I tested it many times. Observing some brass today I see a good firing pin impression. I did take the bolt apart before shooting today and there was no excessive grease/grime infact it was pretty darn clean. I cleaned with solvent anyway and gave a coat of remoil for good measure. I truly feel this rifle is beyond an easy user-end fix. Well, swapping barrels is an easy user-end fix...
 
I would srub the heck out of the barrel, and use a bit of hydrogen peroxide on your patches followed by a bronze brush and repeat a few times, just make sure the barrel is squeeky clean and then try a couple rounds, it is possible though that you got the one in ten thousand rifles that just doesn't shoot well
 
It appears that you belong to a gun club,with a club there has to be a fellow member that has a CVZ455 that you can swap barrels at the range and then compare both gun's with a different barrel.That would give you a fast and easy test.With concrete info.

R
 
I've yet to see another one there actually. They probably go when I don't. I've got an action plan now, I am getting in touch with Grech Outdoors to see if CZ will replace the barrel under warranty. If they won't I certainly won't be going out of pocket to take a chance on another factory barrel so I'll be getting a Lilja for it. CZ's reputation hangs in the balance here. I can live with the fact I got a bad rifle, it happens to the best of manufacturers the deciding factor is whether or not they'll make it right. If they do I'm a happy customer. If they don't that is way worse than getting the bad rifle in the first place. My experience is documented here for many to see and those considering buying a CZ will definitely be influenced by how I get treated.
 
Wow I can tell you that a Lilja barrel needs expensive ammo to keep small groups to your liking.I also wish you luck in getting that barrel to your doorstep legally for under $500.00. With the difference in the dollar shipping and PST GST and miscellaneous it won't make much sense to spend another wad of money on a gun that you will have invested $1000.00 + in it buy the time you are done,and have a barrel left over that may well be a tomato stake by the sounds of it. Sell it for a loss and be done with it.Take the proceeds buy another CZ or Annie and move on. But it is your money your gun your rules. I hope your next venture meets your expectations. Just sayin. :)

R
 
RabidM4U5 said:
I've yet to see another one there actually. They probably go when I don't. I've got an action plan now, I am getting in touch with Grech Outdoors to see if CZ will replace the barrel under warranty. If they won't I certainly won't be going out of pocket to take a chance on another factory barrel so I'll be getting a Lilja for it. CZ's reputation hangs in the balance here. I can live with the fact I got a bad rifle, it happens to the best of manufacturers the deciding factor is whether or not they'll make it right. If they do I'm a happy customer. If they don't that is way worse than getting the bad rifle in the first place. My experience is documented here for many to see and those considering buying a CZ will definitely be influenced by how I get treated.
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To be honest, I haven't heard of anyone having a CZ that would shoot so bad with good target ammo after bedding the action. Something could have been messed up by CZ factory, you will soon find out once you send it in for warranty. I have already mentioned this but like yo dave, I am wondering if your barrel needs some good cleaning with a bronze brush. Leaded barrel would do exactly what you have been experiencing with your random 2 in patterns.
 
A 50/50 mix of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide dissolves lead, run some patches through until your not getting anymore grey on your patches, then try it again
 
I stumbled across this story on RFC where a guy with a Cooper had the exact same symptoms I am experiencing. Scroll to post #25 http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=599546&highlight=lilja+barrel&page=2

I cleaned my barrel squeaky clean before that last shooting session, bronze brush and all. It shot this way new from the factory and cleaned before shooting, and continues to do so after bedding with no change. Is there some kind of new super lead that has welded itself into the barrel refusing to break loose?
 
I'm a little leery of trying vinegar and hydrogen peroxide, I'm reading it is not kind to blued finishes and risks damaging the metal inside the bore.
 
It depends what solution you used to clean the barrel with. I use Hoppes for most of my regular cleaning but as you probably know, Hoppes will not dissolve lead.
 
RabidM4U5 said:
I stumbled across this story on RFC where a guy with a Cooper had the exact same symptoms I am experiencing. Scroll to post #25 http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=599546&highlight=lilja+barrel&page=2

I cleaned my barrel squeaky clean before that last shooting session, bronze brush and all. It shot this way new from the factory and cleaned before shooting, and continues to do so after bedding with no change. Is there some kind of new super lead that has welded itself into the barrel refusing to break loose?
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interesting read, in the end it wasn't his barrel.........
 
You reading the same post I am? "He was going to take it back to Cooper. Several weeks later, I got an Email from LeRoy -- Cooper decided to re-barrel it" it's not the OP who I'm referring to but a guy who posted #25 in the thread dbr65.

Kody I'm using Butches Bore shine.
 
Can-down said:
Yodave, any other cleaning tips you care to share for .22lr?
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2 wet and 3 dry between brands of ammo or different lot numbers, match ammo will require a lot more regular cleaning then high velocity ammo, some say they never clean once they settle on a ammo but I let the rifle tell me what it likes. Use a bore guide if you can get one and a coated dewey one piece .20 cal rod. never pull a brush or a patch backwards through the barrel, only push them through from the breach end. First thing to do when a rifle won't shoot is to clean the barrel, when you have it clean start over and clean it again. Lead can be stubborn and copper solvent will not touch lead, if the fouling is that bad use the peroxide/vinegar solution but keep it off the exposed metal surfaces and wood, a little goes a long long way and it's better to run 10 lightly moist patches through the bore then 1 heavily soaked patch. works for me
 
RabidM4U5 said:
Says the guy with perfect 20/20 hindsight. You'd be singing my praises if it had worked out for me.
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In situations like this, its rarely a stock fitting issue and already knew your outcome before even reading forward. You had warranty and that's what was for. If you're not satisfied by the performance of the product, you contact CZ with your issue and let them help you out to fixing the issue. Some people are telling you, "yea good on your for trying to fix it." but it was honestly the dumbest move anyone could of made. If your new car you bought feels sluggish and unresponsive on the throttle, you don't try to pull the engine out and rebuild it to fix the problem. You bring it back to the dealer.

Also, with you thinking you will be able to send a barrelled action in for warranty, not going to work. They want the whole gun if you're going to send it for warranty. Most warranty places assume there is nothing wrong with the product until they prove it otherwise. Unless its Vortex.
 
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