CZ 455 Quality?

My new "Canadian" :) It has all the appearances of a well made rifle and certainly feels like a better product than my Savage. It is wearing a Sightron SII 6-24. However out of the box it has really let me down in the accuracy department where these rifles seem to get rave reviews. Targets shot on the same day that my Savage beat the 1/2" challenge so I'm not to blame for the poor groups. If it was capable of tight groups, I would have seen it. The tinkering has begun last night I pillared it so today I work on cleaning up the pillaring and getting set up for glass bedding. Already put in the Yo-Dave kit with good results used the thinnest shim and second lightest spring. Next range trip I'm just running a brick of bulk through it while load testing my .270 and she'll come home for a good cleaning before testing accuracy again. Lots of reading on RFC and I'm fairly confident it can become a shooter.







 
Any of my 455's and 452's all took more than a brick to settle them down and mostly sub sonic.To jump into pillars and bedding rite from the beginning doesn't serve justice to the rifles accuracy.Shooting various brands of ammo will tell you lots. Paper punching with subsonic 22lr can yield a good shooting gun in no time,just a few visits to the range and you get a smile on your face.There are known cases that pillars were not the answer.Trigger pull,creep,action screw torque,barrel screw torque,firing pin strike area and a few more are a good form of discipline to start with. Only changing one thing at a time is vert important and hard to practice.A quality front rest rear bag and this list can go on for a long time.A few smiths will chime in with some solid ideas as well.Its your gun your rules "just sayin". That's my 2¢.

R
 
What rifle/scope/rings combination do you have that requires a cheek riser?
I just mount my scope as low as I can in order to get a proper check weld. Here is one of my CZs; there is about 0.025 gap between the AO ring and the barrel and the bolt clears the eye piece sufficiently:

If you have rear sight to worry about, you could use a low power scope like VX rimfire that fits well behind the rear CZ sight and can be mounted very low as it has a small eye piece diameter (no bolt interference).
Kody


I think your kidding right? Not sure what a proper cheek weld is ? The standard stock is good for iron sights, instant you add a scope its an inch too low.... No matter what scope...

I think I will just put a tacticool and tac pro on it... Might suck for carrying when out for tree rats and rabbit but oh well.
 
Rabid, ronnie01 makes a very good point. Quite often it is necessary to put a brick or two of ammo through the gun to "smooth out" the bore, so to speak. Many shooters posting on RFC report that accuracy improved after shooting a bunch. It isn't necessary to shoot the good stuff; any inexpensive ammo will do the trick.
 
What do you guys like to use to bring that cheek weld up ? Leather maybe? Non perm? Don't wana ruin the stock... I may just get the tacticool stock and use the permanent tac pro riser... last resort though, haven't even shot the rifle already cant stand wiggling around trying to find the proper spot

Do you have an American or a Varmint? Or do you have a Lux or other "hogback" stock model. The American and Varmint have combs that lend themselves to scoping as the rifles do not come with iron sights. The other models have what is often referred to as the "hogback" stock that is lower and designed to be comfortable with open sights. There's nothing wrong with a scope on these models; you just may have to adjust your cheek weld.
 
Do you have an American or a Varmint? Or do you have a Lux or other "hogback" stock model. The American and Varmint have combs that lend themselves to scoping as the rifles do not come with iron sights. The other models have what is often referred to as the "hogback" stock that is lower and designed to be comfortable with open sights. There's nothing wrong with a scope on these models; you just may have to adjust your cheek weld.

Varmint, I would not go even close to them "lending" them self's to utilizing a scope.
 
Well Ronnie I am waaaaay past the point of no return for bedding it! :runaway: I did a dizzying amount of reading on RFC and the general consensus is that bedding these rifles is the way to go. Some guys have sold barrels convinced they were bad and the new owner reported they shot well, just needed to be bedded! I've got a comprehensive checklist of things to do with it and I enjoy the bedding process so it's no big deal really only good things can come of it. All those groups I shot were each a different kind of ammo (16 kinds!) and those results in my mind indicate it need's some work to shoot the way I want it to. I've got about 300 rounds through it so far and like I said planning to run another brick of bulk through it before I test for groups again. Plink away while cooling my .270 between groups.
 
Varmint, I would not go even close to them "lending" them self's to utilizing a scope.

That's odd as they are designed for scope only. Of course you may not be alone in finding the Varmint (or American) to not be scope-friendly.
This is a "hogback" stock, and it is more suited to irons with its lower comb



The following is an American stock and the Varmint has a similar comb

 
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I think your kidding right? Not sure what a proper cheek weld is ? The standard stock is good for iron sights, instant you add a scope its an inch too low.... No matter what scope...

I think I will just put a tacticool and tac pro on it... Might suck for carrying when out for tree rats and rabbit but oh well.

Are you a cheek weld expert:)?
No, I am not kidding at all....perhaps if you explain what you call "the standard stock" it will make more sense. Do you have a picture of your current set up to share? From your latest comment I can only guess that you have a hogback style stock with open sights??? If you have a big scope and need to mount it high over the rear sight than I understand your dilemma.
This is my 452FS set up. The distance between the top of the CZ dovetail and the bottom of the scope tube is 0.310 in. No cheek riser required...but I am not a cheek weld expert:)

Kody
 
Well Ronnie I am waaaaay past the point of no return for bedding it! :runaway: I did a dizzying amount of reading on RFC and the general consensus is that bedding these rifles is the way to go. Some guys have sold barrels convinced they were bad and the new owner reported they shot well, just needed to be bedded! I've got a comprehensive checklist of things to do with it and I enjoy the bedding process so it's no big deal really only good things can come of it. All those groups I shot were each a different kind of ammo (16 kinds!) and those results in my mind indicate it need's some work to shoot the way I want it to. I've got about 300 rounds through it so far and like I said planning to run another brick of bulk through it before I test for groups again. Plink away while cooling my .270 between groups.

Nothing better than plinking while developing a info base to work from.What did you use for the pillars and also what bedding compound and release agent some new fellows here may want to do the same to theirs.Good info you to share for their future projects.

R
 
Well Ronnie I am waaaaay past the point of no return for bedding it! :runaway: I did a dizzying amount of reading on RFC and the general consensus is that bedding these rifles is the way to go. Some guys have sold barrels convinced they were bad and the new owner reported they shot well, just needed to be bedded! I've got a comprehensive checklist of things to do with it and I enjoy the bedding process so it's no big deal really only good things can come of it. All those groups I shot were each a different kind of ammo (16 kinds!) and those results in my mind indicate it need's some work to shoot the way I want it to. I've got about 300 rounds through it so far and like I said planning to run another brick of bulk through it before I test for groups again. Plink away while cooling my .270 between groups.

I have pillar bedded 6 out of my 7 bolt action CZs. The only one that didn't need it is my 452FS. All of the other CZs benefited from the bedding job, I have seen the best accuracy improvement from my 455s. Enjoy the project and feel free to pm me if you have any questions, etc.
Kody
 
Nothing better than plinking while developing a info base to work from.What did you use for the pillars and also what bedding compound and release agent some new fellows here may want to do the same to theirs.Good info you to share for their future projects.

R

In that case I'll do up another thread to document my bedding on it in the next couple days. Quick answers I used 1/8" x 2" brass nipples from the plumbing isle at home depot for pillars and set them in place with 5 min epoxy. That didn't turn out so well I mean they are solidly located but on the rear pillar half the epoxy got pushed out the bottom when inserting and set up too quick to flip the rifle over and have it settle back into the stock. Easily fixed when I bed the action I just fill the void with compound and problem solved. For the action bedding I'm going to use JB weld like I did with my Savage and Weatherby Vanguard .270. Release agent is an old tin of Kiwi black shoe polish and it works like a charm I have 100% confidence that nothing will stick to it just be sure to tape and putty up anything that could mechanically lock and you're golden.
 
I have just finished (a couple of weeks ago)a Boyds evolution stock for my 455 using jb (info from Kody here on here)It does work well.Min wax as a release agent as I have a lifetime supply.I have a lathe so 3/8" alum round stock is the ticket.You don't have to drill the stock as it is already 3/8" holes.Groove the outside for grip and you are done.Install them with jb as well.I have seen another jb called marine haven't tried it yet but will on my next one.I am going to do my 452 trainer next.The pillars are so easy one could make up a few doz and sell them in a heartbeat.All that would be required is to fit the length and notch for the front mag well screw.Show us in your new thread.I have also used marine tex.PC 11 and aerodynamic filler. Cheers

R
 
Depends on scope. I am able to use the 11mm mediums to mount my Leupold VX-2 3-9x33 EFR and it's a near-perfect fit.
I have the same scope mounted with Warne medium 7.3 rings and it fits well. My Nikon 3-9 x 40 Prostaff Target needs the high rings to get bolt clearance. This is on a 455 American.
 
I really love my 455 FS. the wood is fantastic! the checkering is sharp and feels good. the grain on the wood (Walnut) looks great.

it's my fave .22 that I own and the one I shoot best with.
 
Anyone looking for material for pillars, these aluminum spacers are easy to work with. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00H8VJ72G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A problem I found with JB is that it's runny. There are ways to thicken it, however. A kit that many use for bedding is the Wheeler Miles Gilbert Bedrock Epoxy Bedding kit, which has an epoxy thickening product http://www.cabelas.ca/product/272/miles-gilbert-bedrock-epoxy-bedding-kit (It's also available through Amazon.ca)
 
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