CZ 455 target thumbhole stock

ronnie01 said:
You understand that the caliper measurement when taken at the top and a 3/8" dovetail will measure .500 ,but 3/8" as a decimal is .375" as the dovetail reference size is at the bottom of the dovetail and very very difficult to measure so the top of a known dovetail will measure .500" The 11mm will measure .430" at the top. That is due to how Europe measures dovetails as opposed to North America.

R
Click to expand...

Ronnie thanks for explaining it to him. I just used a tape measure to do it, as my digital caliper was dead. I must have had the odd ball action that didn't match the chart, hence why I have a 3/8" DIP rail sitting around.
Kinney's offered to take it back as he claims this has happened to others as well. That is why I don't trust the chart anymore.
 
ronnie01 said:
You understand that the caliper measurement when taken at the top and a 3/8" dovetail will measure .500 ,but 3/8" as a decimal is .375" as the dovetail reference size is at the bottom of the dovetail and very very difficult to measure so the top of a known dovetail will measure .500" The 11mm will measure .430" at the top. That is due to how Europe measures dovetails as opposed to North America.

R
Click to expand...

This forum needs a like button, thanks!
 
Brocolt said:
Ronnie thanks for explaining it to him. I just used a tape measure to do it, as my digital caliper was dead. I must have had the odd ball action that didn't match the chart, hence why I have a 3/8" DIP rail sitting around.
Kinney's offered to take it back as he claims this has happened to others as well. That is why I don't trust the chart anymore.
Click to expand...

Fire up your caliper and measure the gun to provide a conclusive result with a picture.Tape measures barely cut it for drywall and wallpaper."LOL" Don't the carpenters say 9 and 1/2 + a tick what the he** is a tick? :)

R
 
ronnie01 said:
Fire up your caliper and measure the gun to provide a conclusive result with a picture.Tape measures barely cut it for drywall and wallpaper."LOL" Don't the carpenters say 9 and 1/2 + a tick what the he** is a tick? :)

R
Click to expand...

I've heard drywallers sayin "xx and 5/8" strong/heavy" or "xx and 3/8" light" it is possible they are referencing 1/16" + or - of the stated division, or a "tick" as you say ;)
 
RabidM4U5 said:
I've heard drywallers sayin "xx and 5/8" strong/heavy" or "xx and 3/8" light" it is possible they are referencing 1/16" + or - of the stated division, or a "tick" as you say ;)
Click to expand...
Brocolt said:
it's called 5/8 & a smig! I used to drywall new houses for 4 years
Click to expand...

Framers often don't worry too much about exact 16" centers so drywallers have to adjust.;)
 
Just get the Warne rimfire rings. It works for both 11mm and 3/8". I used them
On a Walther KKM of mine. Worked great.
 
I have just received.
Unfortunately could not spend more than 10 minutes with it as i have too many things to do tonight.
1st impressions, bolt is nicely machined and real tight, the blueing on action and barrel is gorgeous.
The stock is meh. Plain wood with nothing special, comb definately feels too low, scope will confirm.

As far as scopes go change of plans. I want a dip rail to use standard rail rings, as i want to test my other rimfires with same scope bit wish to mount scope to rings only once.

Edit, it was stronger than me, i had to strip it and examine.
I hate having firearms shipped in the winter, so took the stock off, and wiped all the metal everywhere with a thin coat of G96 and wiped off.
Saw on rimfire central forum, that lots of people torq action screws to 22#, so i did just that while reassembling.
It's confirmed i have an 11mm rail, still thinking of dip rail so i can use scope setup on other build if i want to quick switch.
Only concern, i cleaned the bore with my Otis system, breach to muzzle, and first patches we're rusty brown.
Either they used a bore protector paste thats rusty in colour but unlikely. The lands are nice and shiny, brown stuff comes from the grooves so hoping it doesnt affect too much
 
Last edited:
Cool thanks.

And to those using the DIP rail, do you actually go through the process of leveling them as they describe on website?
Or just torq all the allen screws equally without checking level?
 
Instead of DIp rail, ended up with CZ rings, just because im a sucker for looks and found they looked better installed.


Trying to find propper torque values for these rings and can't seem to find them just yet.
They also have a screw to tight the base to the ring (base and ring are in 2 parts, and come preassembled), i was thinking of properly torqing it with red loctite, bad idea?
The scope to top it off is a vortex diamondback HP 4-16x42

And once i have mounted scope in very early january, pictures and a range report will follow, can't have a long thread like this one without pics!
 
MartyK2500 said:
Instead of DIp rail, ended up with CZ rings, just because im a sucker for looks and found they looked better installed.


Trying to find propper torque values for these rings and can't seem to find them just yet.
They also have a screw to tight the base to the ring (base and ring are in 2 parts, and come preassembled), i was thinking of properly torqing it with red loctite, bad idea?
The scope to top it off is a vortex diamondback HP 4-16x42

And once i have mounted scope in very early january, pictures and a range report will follow, can't have a long thread like this one without pics!
Click to expand...

Congrats on your new CZ; I have the exact same version (452V) and also have those same CZ rings mounting my scope. FYI, mine is one of those 452s listed as successful in the .5" challenge. That was without much effort, by the way; wasn't intending to shoot the challenge. Was just trying out Rem/Eley Target and the groups were all pretty consistent so thought I would see if I could finish up successfully. I just squeaked by but am very confident that if I was using higher end target ammo, I could better my results. Those groups were shot on the second visit to the range with that rifle, BTW.

Also, FYI, my scope maxes out at 8X, and is a Leupold VX3, with parallax set at about 100 yards. So I always wrestle with parallax at 50, but just try to be consistent. I've made no adjustments to my rifle as it came out of the box, and I'm very satisfied with how it shoots. You probably will be as well.
 
MajorMalcontent said:
Congrats on your new CZ; I have the exact same version (452V) and also have those same CZ rings mounting my scope. FYI, mine is one of those 452s listed as successful in the .5" challenge. That was without much effort, by the way; wasn't intending to shoot the challenge. Was just trying out Rem/Eley Target and the groups were all pretty consistent so thought I would see if I could finish up successfully. I just squeaked by but am very confident that if I was using higher end target ammo, I could better my results. Those groups were shot on the second visit to the range with that rifle, BTW.

Also, FYI, my scope maxes out at 8X, and is a Leupold VX3, with parallax set at about 100 yards. So I always wrestle with parallax at 50, but just try to be consistent. I've made no adjustments to my rifle as it came out of the box, and I'm very satisfied with how it shoots. You probably will be as well.
Click to expand...

Thanks!
I imagine you have a fixed parallax scope? As adjusting a adjustable one is real easy.
As for scope rings, they failed on me, so today i have just received my new talleys.
Never bulls eye london and never CZ scope rings ever again for me!

I am quite satisfied with the talleys, they seem better built and better fitting than the CZs.
Temporarily mounted it with propper sight relief, propper torque, and eyeballed level.
Will go to a friend of mine soon that has all the scope leveling equipment.

Oh and also looking for a 6-9 harris bipod to complete build

 
i was thinking of properly torqing it with red loctite, bad idea?

Bad Idea!

Red Loctite is too permanent.
Use Blue Loctite.

This is a somewhat confusing topic as Blue Loctite comes in a red container . . . Go figure!
IIRC the thread compound in the Weaver scope kit is yellowish.
 
horseman2 said:
i was thinking of properly torqing it with red loctite, bad idea?

Bad Idea!

Red Loctite is too permanent.
Use Blue Loctite.

This is a somewhat confusing topic as Blue Loctite comes in a red container . . . Go figure!
IIRC the thread compound in the Weaver scope kit is yellowish.
Click to expand...


You can purchase loctite 222 that is quite usable as well.

R
 
Myself loctite is reserved for base rail to receiver mounting (not needed here as it's integral)
I never loctited any rings, not saying it's the way to go but i am rolling with what people around here do
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom