DAC 394 (Sig 228 Clone) Kit

I used JB weld on a Norinco 1911 to get ride of the made in china and inported by norinco


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WOW That is FRICKEN gorgeous !!! Nice job Jamie :rockOn:

If my finish comes out even close I'll be peeing my pants with laughter !! Did you use Cerakote or a different finish ??

:cheers::cheers:
 
Dlask's site has a bunch of DAC 394 frames, slide, and parts kit for $200

When I called them I was told these are steel frames.

Anyone have an idea of whats really involved with fit and finishing a new frame with parts?

For 200 bucks it seems to be a pretty decent deal.

Kiss you $200.00 good buy. If you do buy a kit you will need the patients of Blind monk and a very big miracle
 
Kiss you $200.00 good buy. If you do buy a kit you will need the patients of Blind monk and a very big miracle

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Master Po: [after easily defeating the boy in combat] Ha, ha, never assume because a man has no eyes he cannot see. Close your eyes. What do you hear?
Young Caine: I hear the water, I hear the birds.
Master Po: Do you hear your own heartbeat?
Young Caine: No.
Master Po: Do you hear the grasshopper that is at your feet?
Young Caine: [looking down and seeing the insect] Old man, how is it that you hear these things?
Master Po: Young man, how is it that you do not?
 
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Got mine this morning...lots of work indeed.


Joeboy, I'm following your lead... started filing the frame down and smoothing out today. Slide tomorrow and start fitting internals on Thursday. I've only been filing for a couple hours and already my arm is super sore....yeah, I'm a Nancy :p

A couple observations:
- My frame has a couple casting imperfections on the inside of the frame between the locking block and the trigger
- Once you file the 4 ridges off the magwell, there doesn't seem to be too much metal left in the screwholes for the grip screws
- The raised bumps around the "blind holes" for grip screws don't line up very well with the holes in my stock grips...how well are you guys lining up the hogue grips? That'll be my next purchase I guess
- As mentioned by a previous poster, the holes in the frame are too small and have to reamed out/enlarged
 
Has everyone recieved an email saying "Processing your oder"?
If I got one (i.e. email), am I getting one... or is it a generic email?

~Cheers
 
Has everyone recieved an email saying "Processing your oder"?
If I got one (i.e. email), am I getting one... or is it a generic email?

~Cheers

That's what I got, plus I talked to Dlask and they had said it shipped last Wednesday....... before the Transfer had gone through. I figure they got swamped with orders and were in the middle of their move, so there may be a bit of lag.
 
I tried to call Dlask for the last 2 days, no answer. Checked thier website no notices on it.

I know they are moving and am wondering if they are between buildings and without communications for a couple days?

Anyone know??
 
The email form on the website works. I sent a message last night and got a response within 12 hours. I'm not shocked that they're not answering the phone...moving sucks.
I've been really happy with their customer service and I'd definitely do business with them again. This was one of the least painless online purchases I've ever made.
 
Anyone done yet?

I'm pretty much assembled, the only thing that remains is to figure out a way to clearance the plastic hammer stop block. I either have to grind down the plastic block or the round part on the hammer...maybe both? The block needs to go "in" (towards the back of hammer's radius) about another millimeter or two so I can line up the pin and pin 'er in.

Then I'd like to get a trigger job, partially because I still have some (what appears to be very minor) fitting issues with the trigger bar in relation to the hammer/sear assembly. I figure that should be resolved with a little trigger work from a gunsmith. I probably "could" finish the fitting myself... but I just think it would be better to let a smith handle it his way, as opposed to trying to fix my mistakes.
 
I'm pretty much at the same stage, but i have the same problem with the hammer clearance. I'm thinking to grind down the hammer.

Anyone done yet?

I'm pretty much assembled, the only thing that remains is to figure out a way to clearance the plastic hammer stop block. I either have to grind down the plastic block or the round part on the hammer...maybe both? The block needs to go "in" (towards the back of hammer's radius) about another millimeter or two so I can line up the pin and pin 'er in.
 
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