DAC 394 (Sig 228 Clone) Kit

Ya know, from the sounds of it and the amount of work going on, these frames sound more and more like 60% or maybe 80%. I am surprised they were even registerable as frames.

I have to say though that I am disappointed that I missed out. I love building guns, I have the tools, the patience and a ####load of time.

Keep up the good work guys. It's a learning experience to be sure. And that is good.:rockOn:
 
I stopped keeping track of how much time I spent on it a while ago, but I would guess I'm somewhere around 30 hours. I've gone through a ton of trial and error, but pretty much everything works now. DA/SA is pretty clean. The trigger bar needed quite a bit of work to get it to go far enough forward to engage the safety lever and pull the sear. The safety lever itself also needed some adjustment. The takedown lever is extremely tight right now and won't turn freely. I'm working on it with some 160 grit but it will probably take some time yet. Once I get my replacement slide stop lever and hammer stop (casualties of my impatience and lack of experience), I should be able to put the whole thing together again for one last full function check before re-bluing and posting the photos of the entire process.
From the obvious frustration in some of the posts it sounds like some people bought these expecting only "some assembly required". While it turned out to be more work than I expected I feel I've learned a lot about the workings of this gun; more so than I would have if I only had to put it together. If Dlask ever made a different kind of kit available (maybe a 1911) I wouldn't hesitate to pick one up. It's been a great learning experience.

I haven't made as much progress as you I'm afraid ..... work/life etc keeps getting in the way ! :)

I've been having an issue with the Slide Stop lever, which is actually two issues I believe ...

A - the Locking block needs some dremel work, I think it doesn't allow enough clearance between it and the inside of the frame.. ( I haven't worked on this yet )

B - the inside of the frame needs a little relief grinding to match the radius of the 'dogleg' section of the lever.

ReliefgrindforSlideStoplever_tn.jpg



ReliefgrindforSlideStoplever2_tn.jpg



The fitting of the rest of my parts is progressing ok .....De-Cocking lever work well...... I need to file/stone the ramp on the trigger bar some more, as I'm not getting DA yet.

About 3 minutes with a stone fixed the sear/hammer engagement problem I was having.... holds well now and a pretty crisp trigger pull on SA !!

Time for a beer methinks !
:cheers:
 
This is an interesting thread. It's too bad they don't seem to be working out so well.

I have an offer. I'll trade anybody their bare frame for $50 off any handgun in my inventory. I will then give the frame away to anybody who doesn't currently own a handgun but has a valid RPAL and club membership. This will at least get another handgun owner on the books. Just an idea...

That's pretty cool, giving people a $50 dollar discount for trading in a paperweight, and then giving someone an opportunity to preserve their rights!

If I don't get one of them to work by next weekend you'll be hearing from me.
 
Joe-boy: Thanks for the info. I haven't got to that stage with my build yet. I'm going slow and doing the easy things that I have most confidence with. I'm about 4 hours into it and have lapped the slide to the frame and lappped the takedown latch, holes for same inclding the locking insert - these are now smooth and function/fit perfectly. That's it for me for a while. I'm going to take my time and am in no hurry. Next I'll file the mag rails, then turn my attention to the internals. Lastly, I will work on the final finish, but I'm a long way from that. PS: What can be done to prevent breaking the little plastic hammer stop? Any filing prior to installation help to relieve this problem? Tips? hints?
 
Size the hammer stop and hammer before you put them together. Make sure there is enough clearance between the back of the hammer and the hammer stop pin. Also make sure the hammer stop is small enough side to side. Mine shattered when I tapped it with a rubber mallet, so my advice would be to make it small enough to insert by hand but not loose. It needs to be centered side to side in the frame so take a little bit of plastic off either side.
 
I'm still working on getting an SA pull,
Since some of you guys have managed to get your sear/hammer engagement fixed, I have a question...

The "tooth" on the sear should fully grab onto the two notches in the hammer (safety notch and full cocked notch) right? ....If so, did you file/grind the tip of sear"tooth"(making it more pointy) or the notches in the hammer (making the notches wider)?

DA Pull/ Sear on Safety Notch
img_0939.jpg

img_0949.jpg


SA Pull/ Sear on Full cocked notch (but sear "tooth" obviously isn't profiled right)
img_0941.jpg

img_0948.jpg



I've been staring at these two pieces for hours now and I'm starting to go crazy. I've gotten this far without using any guides or manuals :p
 
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This is an interesting thread. It's too bad they don't seem to be working out so well.

I have an offer. I'll trade anybody their bare frame for $50 off any handgun in my inventory. I will then give the frame away to anybody who doesn't currently own a handgun but has a valid RPAL and club membership. This will at least get another handgun owner on the books. Just an idea...

Good man!
I may take you up on that if my order goes through and things don't look good :)
 
The "tooth" on the sear should fully grab onto the two notches in the hammer (safety notch and full cocked notch) right? ....If so, did you file/grind the tip of sear"tooth"(making it more pointy) or the notches in the hammer (making the notches wider)?

DISCLAIMER: I am not a gunsmith, nor do I play one on TV ..... advice on the Internet is free, and you get what you pay for. :)


The radius below the SA notch controls the depth of engagement of the sear, by stoning a little at a time off of this you will allow the sear to fit deeper into the notch.

HammerandSear_tn.jpg


I used a triangular stone, trial and fitting often. I kept the stone flat on the engagement surface of the notch ( you don't want to change any angles ) and allowed the side of the stone to remove material below the notch which let the sear go deeper.

Stoning_hammer_tn.jpg


For quick and dirty testing of my progress, I assembled the hammer and sear on the outside of the frame with their pins. This allows you a good look at the hammer/sear relationship.

Hammer-sear_engagement_tn.jpg



( As a side note, in the third picture you can see I needed to do some milling on the inside of the frame for the De-cocking lever bushing to sit flat .... there was a bit of casting slag in this area. )



Good luck and go slow !

:cheers:
 
If anyone has a kit in good shape they don't wish to continue on with please send me a PM. I hesitated a bit too long before ordering one and they appear to be sold out now.

Fun thread to watch :)


EDIT: Found one thanks!
 
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Got mine on Friday. Spent most of yesterday just filing out the magwell, so the mag will drop free. A couple of tight spaces, but it's all patience, ,patience, patience. Hope people will keep posting problems and solutions as they come up, looks like the only hole that I need to widen is for the trigger, the rest looks to fit. Yeah, there's so me slag on the inside of the decocking lever that needs to be smoothed out too. Personally, I think that with a little patient work and some ingenuity, this is going to be a nice piece. The steel seems alright quality, so that's a start. Don't give up! I'm sure most of us have never built a firearm from this level of finishing before, so there's bound to be some issues. I bought it to learn, and I'm doing just that.
 
quick question... are all the internals SIG parts or were they also made by Dlask?
I wonder if SIG parts could/would interchange?
 
Check Brownells for the CW Weapons armourer DVD for detailed instructions on assembly. It is a very interesting thread. I am eagerly awaiting the first range report on these.
 
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