DAC 394 (Sig 228 Clone) Kit

Just a quick update... I'm still working away on my kit and I'm sure at this point it probably will take me all winter :)

I'm working on fitting the trigger and trigger bar and I'm having to make the trigger pivot pin hole a bit bigger. There wasn't a metric drill bit in the whole city and no reamers either.(small city, 16k people) I ordered a couple 4.5mm bits from Acklands and they should be in by Friday so then I'll be able to continue on with the build.

My other issue is I seem to have lost the sear spring pin, it looks like all it does is allow you to put tension on the sear spring so I'm hoping I can just find a properly sized roll pin to use. (either that or I need to get lucky searching around on the floor :) )
 
superbikeracer said:
Just a quick update... I'm still working away on my kit and I'm sure at this point it probably will take me all winter :)

I'm working on fitting the trigger and trigger bar and I'm having to make the trigger pivot pin hole a bit bigger. There wasn't a metric drill bit in the whole city and no reamers either.(small city, 16k people) I ordered a couple 4.5mm bits from Acklands and they should be in by Friday so then I'll be able to continue on with the build.

My other issue is I seem to have lost the sear spring pin, it looks like all it does is allow you to put tension on the sear spring so I'm hoping I can just find a properly sized roll pin to use. (either that or I need to get lucky searching around on the floor :) )
Click to expand...

Sounds like your very best friend would be a rare earth magnet put inside a sock and used for several passes of the floor. :)
 
I'm getting excited as mine came in the mail today!!!

I did get some files to do some of the big work but I now see that I will need some small one to get into the slide areas and in the frame.

Is that the way it should be done or is there a better way???
 
Im a closet DAC builder will post more when im done using the glue gun!!!!!!!
This is it before going to the butcher shop?

dac005.jpg
 
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Thanks for the info joe-boy. I did see your post about the conversions but for some reason I could not find a #16 drill bit at canadian tire. I wasn't having much luck finding anything.
 
Go to lee valley, or any machine shop and pickup some lapping powder. Mix that with some oil and put it on the frame rails and the slide rails. Then rack the slide (without barrel or springs) back and forth on the frame until theres little or no resistance in the movement.

This is how you fit the slide to the frame.

Katana said:
I'm getting excited as mine came in the mail today!!!

I did get some files to do some of the big work but I now see that I will need some small one to get into the slide areas and in the frame.

Is that the way it should be done or is there a better way???
Click to expand...
 
with the hammer down, how much movement do you guys have for the hammer? my 226 has only a slight bit, but the DAC has at least 5mm of movement?

the DAC also has what feels like a light strike. i haven't shot it yet, but it feels alot softer than my 226 when dry firing it DA/SA.
 
POWERWAGON, check out some of the posts starting on page 33 about light firing pin strikes and hammer play ..... MiltonBradly figured out how to modify the hammer strut to eliminate play ......
MiltonBradly said:
YAY! Light strikes be gone! :dancingbanana:

I'm getting reliable ignition off of SA and DA after tweaking the hammer strut a bit. I found there was a significant amount of play between the hammer cross pin and strut notch when it is sitting idle after it has dropped. I ground down the hammer pivot pin notch in the strut until I have almost no dead space between the pin and strut at idle, this seems to have given the hammer the extra energy needed to light off primers in both modes :D
Click to expand...

See post #330, 331, 335, 336,340.....

:cheers:
 
Just a quick note about modding the hammer strut, I had one incident of the strut slipping forward off the pivot notch and on to the cross pin notch as Effects was previously experiencing. Mine occurred after +100 rnds in the session and my buddy was shooting at the time... I don't know if it was a fluke or somthing funky with his grip or...?

I still have to do a little touch up on the strut to prevent this from happening again.... If you mod your strut I'd alter the slope of the pivot notch to catch more of pin edge and force the strut to stay on the correct notch at the end of the cycle.

HTH
 
P0WERWAGON said:
so does anyone want to trade....

let me use their sand blaster/park tank set-up, and i could lend them my sig sight pusher.
Click to expand...
Hmmmm... I wonder who could possibly have a sandbalaster and parkerization solution and has done a park job and lives within a 1/2 hour drive of Burnaby????

If I could only think of someone.....

Perhaps you should PM me... I'd be glad to help you out... LOL!
 
Roll pins on order I need, no luck finding them on the floor.

In the meantime I've figured out that my hammer stop is pushing the hammer strut off the hammer when I try to #### the hammer. I think the next step will be to cut down the stop a bit but I'm still looking it over.
 
superbikeracer said:
Roll pins on order I need, no luck finding them on the floor.
Click to expand...
Buy a pair of dollar store pantyhose, stretch it over the business end of your vacuum cleaner, now vac the floor, check the end frequently to see if anything was picked up,the pantyhose will act as a filter.

I've used this as a last resort when springs go flying across the room.

Bonus points if your wife comes home and sees you vacuuming the house.:bigHug:
 
Mag well ridges be gone... Well, I hope...

Being a lazy, yet cheap nut I figured a mini belt grinder would be ideal for knocking down the ridges in the mag well. I browsed the local Princess Auto and noticed belts for such a device in abundance but no grinders in stock. After an evening of tinkering I submit for your approval the DAC 394 Ridge-O-later MKI

minigrinder.jpg


Tomorrow begins the maiden voyage... Wish us luck ;)

MB
 
Nice. :rockOn:

Are you going to clamp the ridge-0-later to your bench and work the pistol with your hands?

A longer piece of angle iron would make attaching it to a base easier.
 
Can-down said:
Nice. :rockOn:

Are you going to clamp the ridge-0-later to your bench and work the pistol with your hands?

A longer piece of angle iron would make attaching it to a base easier.
Click to expand...

Wow, good idea... I was planning on clamping the frame and working the tool but clamping the tool sounds a lot better. I think I'll weld a bracket to the angle iron to clamp it to... thanks

MB
 
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