ill probably have to order a few things anyways no big deal their shipping was reasonable actually.
I forgot to order sling clips ect anyhow.
Wonder if i can convert that stock to take the standard but plate and add holes for the toolkit.
Decisions decisions !
- Thread starter leonard
- Start date
ill probably have to order a few things anyways no big deal their shipping was reasonable actually.
I forgot to order sling clips ect anyhow.
Wonder if i can convert that stock to take the standard but plate and add holes for the toolkit.
Go for the Treeline butt pad. The standard plate weighs a lot, and will be difficult to mod.
Don't modify the E2 stock to fit a standard butt pad, someday you might find one of the rare original pieces
and regret bodging the original wood.
ill probably have to order a few things anyways no big deal their shipping was reasonable actually.
I forgot to order sling clips ect anyhow.
Wonder if i can convert that stock to take the standard but plate and add holes for the toolkit.
Seems like there is a constant influx of parts for these things.
Better get on Brownell's site or another supplier for:
M1 buddy
Dewey rod guide
Gas cylinder wrench (optional but nice)
Gas cylinder drills (not sure if they fit the Norinco cylinder)
I've seen people say that the M1 buddy won't keep solvent out of your action but if you buy some cloth diapers at Wallmart you'll have plenty of nice soft rags to pamper your baby with. I double up a small piece under said buddy so that there is a seal around the chamber under it. Cleaning the M14 is fun unlike the AR and it requires holding your mouth the right way a few times.
I dont need a second Dewey rod
but i find even nice sets of brass rods (which i also have 2 of) dont mess up crowns ect while cleaning muzzle first. (i assume thats why you recomended Dewey ).
The gas wrench seems like a good idea depending on how tight these shims make this.
as for cylinder drills. i wonder if a nice brass wire boar cleaner in a fitting side would work just as well.
I have nice shammy's with impregnating silicone on them also for wipe downs
but i find even nice sets of brass rods (which i also have 2 of) dont mess up crowns ect while cleaning muzzle first. (i assume thats why you recomended Dewey ).
The gas wrench seems like a good idea depending on how tight these shims make this.
as for cylinder drills. i wonder if a nice brass wire boar cleaner in a fitting side would work just as well.
I have nice shammy's with impregnating silicone on them also for wipe downs
I dont need a second Dewey rod
but i find even nice sets of brass rods (which i also have 2 of) dont mess up crowns ect while cleaning muzzle first. (i assume thats why you recomended Dewey ).
I use bore snakes and ditch cleaning rods altogether
Gas lock wrench is a handy tool , a rubber hammer works too, unless you plan to build a few rifles, then it's kinda handy.
as for cylinder drills. i wonder if a nice brass wire boar cleaner in a fitting side would work just as well.
I have nice shammy's with impregnating silicone on them also for wipe downs
Sadlak gas cylinder cleaning drills do NOT fit chinese parts. Princess auto is your friend here. Take your plug and piston with you and search the bulk, long shank bits for ones that fit cleanly.
DO NOT USE wire brushes of any kind as a substitute. NO oil or cleaning products either.
My 2 cents for ya and sorry I haven't answered your last message, been running an M14 clinic all weekend
So if running a patch back and forth through the bore is a no-no because it gets impregnated with carbon and is abrasive how is a bore snake any better? Just trying to understand the reasoning here.
Leonard the bore guide slides on the rod and over the flash suppressor to keep the rod centered at the muzzle. I understand a 12 gauge shell with the primer drilled out works the same but I can't help to think the drilled brass would have a sharp lip.
I'll keep using a high quality rod, jag and brush with the Dewey guide to keep it on track. The buddy keeps the bolt from slamming shut when the rod touches the bolt as well as catching my one way only patches.
Leonard the bore guide slides on the rod and over the flash suppressor to keep the rod centered at the muzzle. I understand a 12 gauge shell with the primer drilled out works the same but I can't help to think the drilled brass would have a sharp lip.
I'll keep using a high quality rod, jag and brush with the Dewey guide to keep it on track. The buddy keeps the bolt from slamming shut when the rod touches the bolt as well as catching my one way only patches.
itsokay 45acpking
getting there now
I have a couple bore snakes but i never found them to get things as clean as some other methods.
my fav being Whipeout Bore foam.
and they held off on my order so i was able to add a few of these things recommended in the same shipment.
getting there now
I have a couple bore snakes but i never found them to get things as clean as some other methods.
my fav being Whipeout Bore foam.
and they held off on my order so i was able to add a few of these things recommended in the same shipment.
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I will likely buy the scope rail from M14.ca
To me it looks like a much stronger and cleaner looking rail then the other type offered.
Lol the shimS!!! i just emailed Treeline to see if they can add those to my order.
I ordered a M14E2 M14A1 Birch Wood stock , A M14 M1A USGI Solid Handguard ,M14 M1A Sadlak NM Spring Guide and TreelineM14 CS Spring Bundle and hopefully they can add those shims in there .
so far around 800$ into the rifle haven't even shot it yet haha.
Im not sure aesthetics like a wood stock and handguards should count tho
What I tell myself to justify spending so much on a $400.00 rifle is......all the parts I buy can be sold for close to what I paid. Or!! used to do my own build on a higher end rifle as all the parts fit another rifle and I would still have my $400 rifle. This way I can have fun shooting for a year or 2 and don't have to shell out the full cost of the build all at once!
Edit: Or I can have fun for a year or 2 and still sell the the rifle and all the parts seperately. Thats what I told my wife and I'm sticking to it!
Rodney
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I use bore snakes and ditch cleaning rods altogether
Gas lock wrench is a handy tool , a rubber hammer works too, unless you plan to build a few rifles, then it's kinda handy.
Sadlak gas cylinder cleaning drills do NOT fit chinese parts. Princess auto is your friend here. Take your plug and piston with you and search the bulk, long shank bits for ones that fit cleanly.
DO NOT USE wire brushes of any kind as a substitute. NO oil or cleaning products either.
My 2 cents for ya and sorry I haven't answered your last message, been running an M14 clinic all weekend
Just so I know what's wrong with using a wire brush like a bore brush? Does it cause scratches or something that wouldn't normally occur in a bore? I kind of assumed that something that is safe for a bore would be fine for the cylinder, or is it that it can't break the carbon as well?
As for cleaning agents, could one use only a carbon dissolving solvent that leaves no residue or clean with brake cleaner after using a regular solvent?
My comments on wire brushes pertain to the gas system parts.
As for boresnakes... I prefer them but by no means is that a statement made to say "you should like them too" . I use the rod and patch as well but only for the cleanings done before and after long term storage... But again, that's just me.
As for boresnakes... I prefer them but by no means is that a statement made to say "you should like them too" . I use the rod and patch as well but only for the cleanings done before and after long term storage... But again, that's just me.
Because all of the manuals and armorers info I have says it is not good. Abrasives of any kind should not be used on gas system parts. Even the old cartoon how to US military packets warn against using bore brushes on gas cylinders ect.
Wow OK Fair enough! Just wasn't sure if it was modern day suggestions or military guidelines. I'll take that to the bank
Well Parts list so far is as shown.
M14 M1A USGI Solid Handguard Very Good
M14E2 M14A1 USGI Wood Stock , Birch E2
M14 M1A Sadlak NM Spring Guide And treeline M14 CS Spring Bundle.
M14E2 Rubber Butpad
Swivels for E2 Stock and Front Under Rail with quick disconnect.
M14 M1A Gas System Shim Kit
And Gas System Wrench
Sofar with everything im about 880-900$ into the gun.
i think ive got all the easy acurizors done except unitizing the gas system which ill likely not do.
From what i reken the only other real acuracy mods left is barrel and bolt. and a couple other things
so likely i wont do those if this is close to how i want it but even if i did my math says under 1800$ so i feel im still on a good path even if i did splurge on a nice stock i probably didn't need.
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also i bought 3 x Hornady 30c(.308) 150gr FMJBT BULLET BoatTail @ 0.25Cents per bullet
I will likely just install all the upgrades before i start working up a load with ladder method.
I know some people wanted to see how much accuracy i gained with each thing added but the fact is in my experience handloading its hard enough with consistency of the rifle itself lol.
fact is me changing anything in the rifle could easily change where the harmonics are for the exit of the bullet equaling difference in load reliability all together.
Id really love to find more Brass for this before i get started so i can separate them from my 308 Rifles incase a bit of fire forming happens.
Does anyone have a Nicely priced line on brass atm all i'm finding is boxes of nosler and hornady @ retarded prices?
Ive never had any issues shooting Winchester or Remington brass before so even those would be solid priced alternatives.
M14 M1A USGI Solid Handguard Very Good
M14E2 M14A1 USGI Wood Stock , Birch E2
M14 M1A Sadlak NM Spring Guide And treeline M14 CS Spring Bundle.
M14E2 Rubber Butpad
Swivels for E2 Stock and Front Under Rail with quick disconnect.
M14 M1A Gas System Shim Kit
And Gas System Wrench
Sofar with everything im about 880-900$ into the gun.
i think ive got all the easy acurizors done except unitizing the gas system which ill likely not do.
From what i reken the only other real acuracy mods left is barrel and bolt. and a couple other things
so likely i wont do those if this is close to how i want it but even if i did my math says under 1800$ so i feel im still on a good path even if i did splurge on a nice stock i probably didn't need.
----------
also i bought 3 x Hornady 30c(.308) 150gr FMJBT BULLET BoatTail @ 0.25Cents per bullet
I will likely just install all the upgrades before i start working up a load with ladder method.
I know some people wanted to see how much accuracy i gained with each thing added but the fact is in my experience handloading its hard enough with consistency of the rifle itself lol.
fact is me changing anything in the rifle could easily change where the harmonics are for the exit of the bullet equaling difference in load reliability all together.
Id really love to find more Brass for this before i get started so i can separate them from my 308 Rifles incase a bit of fire forming happens.
Does anyone have a Nicely priced line on brass atm all i'm finding is boxes of nosler and hornady @ retarded prices?
Ive never had any issues shooting Winchester or Remington brass before so even those would be solid priced alternatives.
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I have used remington, winchester, federal and norma brass so far in my Norinco All worked well with no problems. The federal didn't last as long though as the primer pockets started to get loose by the 2nd and 3rd reloads. A buddy of mine uses federal and hasn't had an issue so it may have only been the batch I had?
Edit, I am using once fired brass purchased off the EE, can't seem to find anything but Hornady and Lapua brass locally. I am running Lapua right now in my M1A, tried the Hornady Match brass in it and had my first ever case seperations on the first firing with brand new brass!!
Rodney
Edit, I am using once fired brass purchased off the EE, can't seem to find anything but Hornady and Lapua brass locally. I am running Lapua right now in my M1A, tried the Hornady Match brass in it and had my first ever case seperations on the first firing with brand new brass!!
Rodney
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I have tried winchester, Remington, ivi, winchester western (older stuff), and Dominion arms, all worked though my only separation was with twice fired Remington. The winchester western worked great and it seems to be recommended among other m1a shooters. If you post on other places you can probably find ivi for a good price if you want to deal with the primer pockets, otherwise look for the older head stamp winchester western. Da also worked great. Basically military brass should last a bit longer is my understanding, win western is apparently the exception as it is commercial and lasts well
Just a update for those that were following this post.
Received, spring and nm spring guide,hand guard, gas shims, wrench, new brass, bullets, scope.
Still pending is the rail and e2 stock. Prob 2 or so working days out on both
Damn xmas getting in the way of my gun part shipments
Received, spring and nm spring guide,hand guard, gas shims, wrench, new brass, bullets, scope.
Still pending is the rail and e2 stock. Prob 2 or so working days out on both
Damn xmas getting in the way of my gun part shipments
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Stock arrived today xmas eve, merry Christmas to me!
Mint condition I couldn't be happier with it looks great, I may do a few more coats of tung oil to make the grains and those stripes pop out but its flawless definitely recommend getting one If you can.
Mint condition I couldn't be happier with it looks great, I may do a few more coats of tung oil to make the grains and those stripes pop out but its flawless definitely recommend getting one If you can.
