Deer huntin .300wsm or 7mm RM

I would very happily swap a .270 Win with 150gr Partitions for a .300 WSM with 150gr Core-Lokt for Elk at the 250m or less you mention. What about Woodleigh bullets? I have also used the 140gr Hornady BTSP in the .270 with good success. Why not plink with a cheap bullet and use Partitions for some warm up and practice before the hunt? A box or two goes a long way then. How much do you shoot per year?
 
1899, The 270 has shot some Sambar with 140gr accubond CT but is generally used for Fallow deer, with 130gr softys.

the whelen I have is typical gulley stalking 150m MAX shots etc. then I have this WSM for out to 400m use. I thought about Sellin Both 270 and 300 for a 7, but I don't think il part with the 270 for now an keep using 130gr softys I will reload for it soon!


Not really sure of exact figures of what I shoot per year, but id shoot around 20 critters a year... I hunt 3/4 of the year an due to the terrain sometimes fall or bump a rifle, an most projectiles get sent downrange to confirm zero etc.


This talk of partitions is growing on me though, il need to price a bunch of projectiles next time I go to town..

wl
 
I'd have zero problems hunting everything I hunt with a .270 and 150 Partitions. I do use a 7mm RM and I no longer own a .270 Win, but that is mostly because I have a sentimental attachment to my 7mm. My best friend's father used his old Remington 721 in .270 Win for over 20 years to shoot at least one deer per year in addition to the nearly yearly moose, plus elk etc. He used the cheapest factory ammo from the local big box store.
 
This talk of partitions is growing on me though, il need to price a bunch of projectiles next time I go to town..

Living where you do I'd look into Woodleighs and call it good. We Canadian's ##### about the prices we pay compared to the Americans, but the Aussies really get bent over. The Australian Woodleighs are a world class hunting bullet that is priced reasonably there.
 
Living where you do I'd look into Woodleighs and call it good. We Canadian's ##### about the prices we pay compared to the Americans, but the Aussies really get bent over. The Australian Woodleighs are a world class hunting bullet that is priced reasonably there.

Yup, I have a Frankonia Jagd catalogue from last year and stuff ain't exactly cheap there either. I used to go to the Kettner Jagd in Mannhiem before they closed it down. That was fun.

I had mentioned the Ballistic Tip in the OP's other thread - they are actually quite cheap and many of them have been redesigned over the years.
 
In skimming through this, if I were in your shoes, I'd not bother trading a 300WSM in on Rem's big 7... the difference is too little.

I'd also not consider bobbing the barrel on a magnum much if at all, as they need that longer pipe to deliver the ballistics for which they're made in the first place. A chopped 7RM would tread on 280Rem territory pretty quickly I think.

To get what you're looking for with what you have, load some bonded/partitioned/mono-metal bullets in 165 grain weight and go to it.

Also, copy 1899 on the recommendation to use El Cheap-O pills for practice, and the good stuff for load development, zero confirmation and game only. I buy literally whatever generic C&C or FMJ bullets for volume practice; the load hits nowhere near the same place as hunting loads, but that's corrected in about 3 shots when switching back and forth.
 
I would very happily swap a .270 Win with 150gr Partitions for a .300 WSM with 150gr Core-Lokt for Elk at the 250m or less you mention. What about Woodleigh bullets? I have also used the 140gr Hornady BTSP in the .270 with good success. Why not plink with a cheap bullet and use Partitions for some warm up and practice before the hunt? A box or two goes a long way then. How much do you shoot per year?

Why would you recommend a 150gr bullet in a .308cal, unless you were using a monometal like the Barnes?
 
Why would you recommend a 150gr bullet in a .308cal, unless you were using a monometal like the Barnes?

The OP is using 150gr Core-Lokt ammo in his .300 WSM - he also owns a .270 Win.

Plus I worded my post wrong. I would happily take a .270 Win with 150gr Partitions over a .300 WSM with 150gr Core-Lokts...
Sorry about the dislexic post.
 
1899 Thanks for clearing that up!

Silverado - Thanks for putting it like that, an that was what I was thinkin along the lines of too.. I also agree with you about changing a POI in 3 shots... its easy enough to do eh!


dogleg- I use Woodleighs in 35 Cal an they are good stuff, I pay $60 for 50.

im not really interested in Ballistic tips due to their nature of being quite explosive. which is somewhat similar to the Corelokt 150gr model.


I read an article that rekoned lopping barrel doesn't change too much FPS at all... heres the link
www.fieldandstream.com/blogs/gun-nuts/20...arrels-may-be-better

I could live with a 24inch Magnum 7 barrel, but I wouldn't live with any further.... the Abolt 300 is 23inch an is perfoict. I think I seen the Abolt 7 has a 26, but maybe that's with the Boss system, which we don't have here in Aus.

hmmm mmm ummm hmm

Thanks fellas.

think il save the drama an just kep totin that 300 WSM.

WL
 
agree with silver on this ... too little difference

but i'd practice with the stuff i use for hunting ... i don't want any surprises when taking a shot at a distance ...

partitions are right on..... the barnes i used on deer didn't open up so good ... little hole in and little hole out



In skimming through this, if I were in your shoes, I'd not bother trading a 300WSM in on Rem's big 7... the difference is too little.

I'd also not consider bobbing the barrel on a magnum much if at all, as they need that longer pipe to deliver the ballistics for which they're made in the first place. A chopped 7RM would tread on 280Rem territory pretty quickly I think.

To get what you're looking for with what you have, load some bonded/partitioned/mono-metal bullets in 165 grain weight and go to it.

Also, copy 1899 on the recommendation to use El Cheap-O pills for practice, and the good stuff for load development, zero confirmation and game only. I buy literally whatever generic C&C or FMJ bullets for volume practice; the load hits nowhere near the same place as hunting loads, but that's corrected in about 3 shots when switching back and forth.
 
dimeN has a decent point; one should practice enough with the hunting ammo to fully know and believe in the ballistics of the ammo.
 
dimeN has a decent point; one should practice enough with the hunting ammo to fully know and believe in the ballistics of the ammo.

At 250m or less trajectory difference will be a non-event. Even at 400 it would be pretty easy to have similar trajectory.
 
I plan on shooting 400m if a critter wants to step out, 1899, You seem to have 250m in mind from when I mentioned ive shot critters from 30m out to 250m with the Corelokt bullet... just to clear that up.

Also definatley agree with using the same bullet for practise and hunting, hence why I use corelokts an shoot out to 400m on my Farm/Ranch whenever I get bored, generally 100 an 200m though for confirming zeros after falls and further to determine what drop im getting at 300-350 and 400m....
Hence why I will proberly stay with a CC 165gr an Hornadys are looking good!

.

Do we think Recoil is around the same for both 7rm an 300wsm with up to 160gr projectiles? I do not think il bother using 180gr projectiles due to recoil of WSM case.

cheers
wl
 
Of all the 32 years of reloading and observing bullets and ammo I never witnessed bullets marked "cup and core". Most bullets were marked spitzer, round nose, partition, bonded, etc. What manufacture marks cup and core or is it just more jargon language? Sorry I just crawled from underneath a rock.
 
Of all the 32 years of reloading and observing bullets and ammo I never witnessed bullets marked "cup and core". Most bullets were marked spitzer, round nose, partition, bonded, etc. What manufacture marks cup and core or is it just more jargon language? Sorry I just crawled from underneath a rock.

As in not a monolithic or partition style bullet.
 
Of all the 32 years of reloading and observing bullets and ammo I never witnessed bullets marked "cup and core". Most bullets were marked spitzer, round nose, partition, bonded, etc. What manufacture marks cup and core or is it just more jargon language? Sorry I just crawled from underneath a rock.

It means the core(lead) is not bonded to the cup(jacket). Basically a non bonded jacketed bullet. It's a category that includes a huge number of bullets from pretty well all manufacturers, just as bonded is another category as is mono metal..
 
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