discrete film crew bear gun for North of 60....

filmbeargun

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I live North of 60 where I work with international film crews out on the land. It is now impossible to get pepper spray and crack flares on many aircraft. It is not a big deal to get an unloaded 12 gauge, and a separate box of shells, on any aircraft here. Given this, and the workplace safety requirement that one person has to have a firearm for bears, I am looking at getting a folding stock, recoil-compensated (Cop-stock) 12 gauge pump-action shotgun, to fire rubber slugs, HP lead slugs, 00 buckshot, and 12 gauge flares and bear-cracker noise shells. I may have until May to get this together.

Cost and light weight and compactness are critical considerations. To avoid theft and raised eyebrows it has to be carried discretely in boats, on ATV’s and in light helicopters and bush aircraft without looking like a gun in a gun-case. Unlike what I read about HD guns, it has to be as un-threatening looking as possible. It also has to be able to cross the US border, so 18 inch plus barrels are what I am looking for.

While I keep a clean camp, keep a bear-resistant (Kevlar sacs) food cache 200m/yds from the tents and use a bike-pump refillable air horn, and have had considerable training through the national parks (Parks Canada), and hope to have a portable electric fence by the spring, I may still have to accurately deliver bear cracker noise shells just in front of a Grizzly or Black Bear, and, during the fall nights and maybe winter, fire off 12g white flares for night-time illumination for bear location. In the worst possible case, if all else fails, I might have to shoot slugs at the feet of the bear, or (gulp!) shoot the bear. I would really try to avoid that...

Past experiences show that I am a rotten shot. So, I will have to train to be able to hit a bear-size target with lead slugs at a maximum range of 25M/yds, preferably closer. I might have a go with rubber slugs at 50M if I have the time, and if a crack flare hasn’t worked. Hence an 8 shot magazine tube.

I am a slightly-built chap, so recoil has to be tamed, and the arm itself must be lightweight but reliable. I cannot be taking it apart every time it gets covered in rain or condensation. I can sometimes wipe it off. In the field I will carry it “cruiser ready” with the magazine tube loaded but with an empty chamber. I can also rotate shells out of it every night for a second set of shells, so that the shells don’t get deformed by the magazine spring. For ten months of the year it will likely be locked-up, unloaded and dis-assembled.

Anyways, I am interested in suggestions for my strategy, which is:

1) get the permitting process started (local experience says 6 months!)

2)-buy 9 12 gauge snap caps for checking the function of 2nd hand arms and practising pumping the action with or breaking in any new action (see if I can scrounge some dummy rounds up locally)

3)-find a source of reduced-recoil slugs, and 00 buckshot

3) over the winter, buy 2nd hand, locally available:

-Remington 870 and have gunsmith cut barrel put on sights, 8 shot tube
-Mossberg 500 have gunsmith put on steel safety tab, trigger guard, sights, 8 shot tube

if that doesn’t pan out,

Buy New by mail order:

-Mossberg 590A1 or Mariner

And if a film crew arrives with little notice and they are in a Big Hurry (!)
Buy New, locally: (ouch! $800 Canadian!)

-Remington Marine Magnum (paint front bead with red nail polish)

Note: I will fit whatever I get with a Cop-Stock. If I can get one in Canada...



Questions:

Moving shotguns inside heated shelters after being cold-soaked outside to even fall temperatures of -10C/+10F means condensation inside of everything metallic, ice actually forms on metals when they come inside from winter -40C/-40F, what arm is best to avoid rust in these circumstances?

I cannot always wipe off the outside, nor can I be run ragged dis-assembling the thing to get the moisture off the inside... Mossberg says that their Marinecote finish on the Mariner extends to all metal parts, which sounds good to me... is there an easy-to-apply spray finish I could put on a 2nd hand gun to give better corrosion protection---I have no-name rust paint in flat black!

What shotguns are most easy to handle wearing gloves, or contact gloves worn inside of mittens? No tiny fiddly buttons please!

What lubricant works best in cold conditions, such as -40C, as winter work is growing here?
(I will be replacing plastic safeties and trigger guards with metal to avoid cold breakage problems...)

I am right-handed but with a left master eye. I probably won’t get a great cheek-weld on the wire stock. What inexpensive light-gathering, (ie: fibre optic) sights are rugged enough to survive being dragged through the bush on a bear gun? Is it worth the expense and fragility of going the Red Dot sight route?

How can I mount a cracker shell and a flare shell on a Cop-Stock equipped over-the-top folding stock shot gun? Is there anything better than rubber-banding the shells to the outside of the wire stock with dead bike inner tubes?

From what I hear it is nearly impossible to import a Cop-Stock. So, I am considering going the Mossberg or Remington 870 route, and then getting an extra-long stock-to-receiver attachment bolt made up, maybe with a wing-nut head, so that I can easily take the stock off for transport.
For practice, I will tape foam over my shoulder, I guess...

Can the Mossberg plastic stock be cut down to fit me if I have to go that route?

Again, if I do my job right, I should never have to shoot a bear; at worst, fire off crack flares, still....

Let me know what you think!
 
Cop-Stocks as you call them suck to shoot with slugs...

Most folding stocks are unpleasent to shoot with heavy loads like slugs and will tend to make you shoot worse due to the pain they inflict on the shooter. Get a full stock Rem 870 with a 14" barrel if you really need it to be short but still shootable.

That's my $0.02 ;)
 
Skip the copstock and get a standard speedfeed stock with the 4 shell holder built in, this stock comes with a LE forend so you can put a 6 shot side saddle on the gun as well.

since you consider yourself a poor shot I would recomend something with ghost ring sights.... a mossberg security 590 can be bought with ghost ring sites and the speed feed stock for around $599, add the 6 shot side saddle for $40 and your set to go. with 7x3" magnums in the tube, 6x3" Magnums in the side saddle and 4x2 3/4" Magnums in the buttstock the gun will carry 17 rounds on it without having to worry about a bag to hold your ammo. ( 19 rounds if you use 2 3/4" shells exclusivly)

one thing I find with the mossberg is the trigger pull is heavy...... and the slide needs to be worked alot before it smooths out..... but otherwise an awesome gun for the price.

or buy an Remington 870 Express model 7 shot for around $450, put trijicon / wilson track lock sites on it ($185), 4 shot side saddle ($40) and your good to go...... spend another $200 and put the speedfeed stock with shell holder and upgrade to a 6 shot side saddle and the gun will carry 16 rounds on it.
 
TSE has carried the Knoxx stocks in the past. If you want recoil reduction they offer a stock that is based on the normal synthetic stock that the manufacturers ship on their shotguns, made by Hogue which is rubberized for better grip and has the recoil system built into the stock to help you deal with the recoil and get back on target quicker. I use this stock and it makes a huge difference. It really looks a lot like the normal stock so it isn't very "scary" to catch a glimpse of.

They also have a new model that has a pistol grip and adjustable main stock very similar to a stock for an AR15. This has a recoil reduction in the pistol grip, and a second recoil reduction system in the stock. This would be maximum recoil reduction, but would also look "scary" to a non-shooter.

The Hogue version "compstock" would work very well for you I think. It would allow you to use a side saddle to hold 6 rounds on the side of the receiver. You could also use a buttstock holder for other shells, or a sling that holds shells if either of those options appeal to you. The buttstock holder would have to be mounted forward of the recoil reduction portion of the stock.

For sighting the ghost ring option (get tritium to cover low light situations) would be great as it doesn't need to be turned on before use. If going red dot get a quality unit like the eotech which will be able to be left on for 8 hours at a time without using major power, and take a reasonable amount of abuse.

As far as getting to the point where people should be able to trust you with their lives, you will need a ton of practice with this unit. Marstar was selling bulk lots of slugs at cheap prices which would be great for practice, and when it comes time to arm for real bear duty use Brenneke (sp) slugs. Of course practice before you head out with the brenneke's so you know how they will behave in comparison to your cheap practice ammo.
 
Had a new institutional 870MM brought in that was unserviceable right from the factory. Rough reamed chamber, very difficult extraction, stuck case. Importer was less than supportive about supplying a replacement barrel. Months before the gun was fit for use. Two different institutional guns were brought in thoroughly jammed with broken cases from bear bangers lodged in the forcing cones. Test whatever you are using to make sure it works. Obtained a Winchester Coastal Marine for a customer. Quite a businesslike rig. If you are looking for compact, the 18" barreled guns are noticeably less bulky than the 8 shot 20" guns. Whatever you get, practice with it. Know a chap who killed a polar bear point blank with an 870; shortstroked the gun, fortunately the first and only shot did the job. Reduced recoil loads might be all very well for practice. For serious use, perhaps best to go heavy.
 
Remington Marine Magnum it will hold up to all kinds of weather and fit it with the Hogue rubberized stock for better grip and has the recoil system built into the stock to help you deal with the recoil
 
When I worked in he bush I had 2 guns on hand. My inside gun, and my outside
gun. The outside one only was brought in for maintenance, and was kept cold in
a nylon case. When it does come in from the cold, you will need to give it a lube
bath, and rest it beside the wood stove barell down. I worked into -40c for walking
the line, and this practice served me well.

--PM
 
I would recommend a stainless shotgun like the marine or I have a stainless 1200 police winchester with the pistol grip.The shotgun you are looking for should be low maintainance and compact.I personally find the finish on say a parked 590 to be poor around moisture where the stainless finish is impervious.
 
I personally find the finish on say a parked 590 to be poor around moisture where the stainless finish is impervious.


have you ever heard of oil ???

gee the army loves parkering...... they have never had problems with its corrosion resistence, why does my mossberg 590a1 think it's finish is any less durable then a marine magnum ??

you still have to care properly for your guns, wipe them down every night if you have been carrying them in the weeds and wipe down every night when you put them to bed... is 3.5 minutes really going to kill you to maintain your defense arm ??
 
About the only diff' I can see between the Parkerized Mossy, and the Marine coat one is the marine coat one is better vs moisture with salt...ie having it on a boat. On a boat salt-air gets at everything no matter how well you store it.

And I agree...one still needs to spend a few minutes a night on there rifle cleaning regardless.
Personally for a hard working, and still affordable shotty I'm pretty happy with my Mossy/Mav 88. :mrgreen:

Also I'd skip the pistol grips, and stick with the regular buttstock.
 
The Maverick 88 and the Mossy 500 have only one drawback for what Filmbear is looking for. That is that you can't put a mag extension on them. You would have to go to the 590 to get the mag capacity you want.
 
You'll probably want to avoid small plastic parts if you're working in real cold conditions. Rem. 870 Marine magnum is probably your best bet. Parkerizing is good but Nickel plated is better and it's not like you need a dull finish for stealth. Comes with 6 round capacity and a nice recoil pad.
I think the Knoxx cop stock would be a good option if you can get one. You might have to order it through a law enforcement friend as they are only available through www.rnicholls.com in Canada and they will only sell to non -civillians. (Hopefully the plastic parts in the Knoxx stock recoil system can handle the cold!)
If you don't want to get two guns for dealing with the cold as was suggested above( leave one cold) you could get a pellican style case and put the gun in it cold then introduce it to the warmer temperature slowly by placing the case in the coolest part of your shelter. You will still need to maintain the gun but the slower it warms up the less condensation you will be dealing with. Good luck and maybe some northern nuts have some tips for dealing with the cold as far as gun oil is concerned!
 
Workin Man said:
The Maverick 88 and the Mossy 500 have only one drawback for what Filmbear is looking for. That is that you can't put a mag extension on them. You would have to go to the 590 to get the mag capacity you want.

True but I'm thinking 6 slugs will kill just about anything. 8)
 
Calum said:
True but I'm thinking 6 slugs will kill just about anything. 8)

6 hits will kill just about anything...... 6 slugs on the other hand may just kill some dandilions and maybe a tree or two behind your target if your all jacked up and happen to miss mr bruin.

I am a firm believer in the more rounds the better,,, which is why my truck gun is the 590a1 with side saddle and speed feed stock, 17 round total on the gun and ready to go without having to grab some belt carrier or bag.
 
Well where do I start? Wonder what part of the Yukon you figure any self respecting bear is out and about at -40c?
At -10c to above 0 leave the shotgun outside where it will do the most good not inside gathering rust and condensation. Rust Not by rustcheck works well as a lubricant.
If you can't hit a bear at 25 meters with a shotgun I suggest you get an aluminum baseball bat to use on the bear. If you leave it to the last 25 meters to deter a bear you will NOT get a 2nd shot. Especially if the bear is at a full charge!
Practice with live ammo not dummy ammo, there is a great shooting range in Whitehorse. If your not a member ask someone who is.
The reason for being so stern :evil: if it is your job to protect and possible save someones life using a firearm be damned proficient and very familiar with its operation. Sounds like your looking to be the Rambo type needing an 8 shot mag with a cop stock and all.
A factory unpluged mag will be fine for capacity and a cheap take down Win. Model12 with an 18" barrel without sights. should fit the bill for under $400.
It will break down short enough to be transported without causing concern to those who are spooked by the sight of a guncase.
Above all practice, practice, practice. Who knows the life you save maybe your own!
 
Yeah I agree Calum, I doubt most guys could even fire all six before a charging bear was on them, but Filmbear has the idea of loading bangers and rubber slugs ahead of the lead slugs. Still one bear banger one rubber slug, followed by 3 real slugs (chamber empty, safety off) would probably do it for him. We only deal with black bears here in Ontario so I am just going by what I hear from you guys out west. For me I think it would be all slugs based on the advice I've heard.
 
I am looking at getting a folding stock, recoil-compensated (Cop-stock) 12 gauge pump-action shotgun, to fire rubber slugs, HP lead slugs, 00 buckshot, and 12 gauge flares and bear-cracker noise shells. I may have until May to get this together

Forget the folding stocks. You NEED a regular, ful lenght stock. You are in a high bear risk area, you are going to want to have the best gear you can.

I might as well adress the cracker shells, flares, rubber slugs and buckshot here, too....

If you are the only one with a firearm, then youhave no business using non lethal ammunition in it while a bear is close by.

FOrget about trying to scare off a bear using this stuff if you are the only oine that is armed. If there are 2 people with firearms, then you can use the non lethal stuff and have the other guy do security.

I know, you want to shoot a cracker shell at it at 50 yards, and if that doesn't work, then your next shell in the magazine is a rubber slug, and then you'll have slugs...

Forget it. You don't know what is going to happen with those first rounds. Are you going to panic and short stroke? Are you going to have a jam? Something not work properly after the first shot? Now you have a useless gun and a pissed off bear.

Load your firearm with Brenneke 2 3/4" slugs for bear defense. If you have a second person with a gun, they can use the flares, etc. Buckshot isn't a good option for bear defense compared form a slug.

Cost and light weight and compactness are critical considerations. To avoid theft and raised eyebrows it has to be carried discretely in boats, on ATV’s and in light helicopters and bush aircraft without looking like a gun in a gun-case. Unlike what I read about HD guns, it has to be as un-threatening looking as possible

Lock it in a case when on public transport, or in town. You don't need to be discreet with bush pilots. They likely have thier own stowed somewhere. A pump shotgun is a pump shotgun, it looks scary to anti gun morons, it looks fine to anyone that works in the bush.

. It also has to be able to cross the US border, so 18 inch plus barrels are what I am looking for.

That opens a whole can of worms. I suppose you mean Alaska? You better check the US laws for importing guns, they are strict. Getting an Alaskan hunting liscence may expediate things.

While I keep a clean camp, keep a bear-resistant (Kevlar sacs) food cache 200m/yds from the tents and use a bike-pump refillable air horn, and have had considerable training through the national parks (Parks Canada), and hope to have a portable electric fence by the spring,

That is good. Your head is the best bear defense, and keeping a clean camp is important.

I may still have to accurately deliver bear cracker noise shells just in front of a Grizzly or Black Bear, and, during the fall nights and maybe winter, fire off 12g white flares for night-time illumination for bear location. In the worst possible case, if all else fails, I might have to shoot slugs at the feet of the bear, or (gulp!) shoot the bear. I would really try to avoid that...

Well, you won't see many bears in the winter, as they hibernate.

As for the rest of your ideas about shooting cracker shells just in front of a bear, or shooting at their feet... :roll: You're asking for trouble.

You better get it through your head that there is a very real possibility that you may have to KILL a bear.

Read what I said above about wasting space in your magazine with non lethal ammo in a bear defense situation.

When a bear gets within 50 yards, you shoudl be on red alert, with a slug in the chamber, safety OFF and your finger gently resting on the trigger. Your shotgun shoudl be aimed at the bear. If you have to move, take the finger off the trigger.

If the bear is not acting aggresively, you should talk to let it know you are a human, and hopefully it runs away.

If that bear is acting aggresively at 50 yards, you shoudl kill it. It's going to casue you trouble at one point, if not that day , then the next or that night.

A bear advancing towards you within 25 yards shoudl get similar treatment. Your first priority is not savign the bears life, it is the protection of those around you.

If you cannot mentally prepare yourself to kill a bear, then you shoudl give the job to someone else.

Past experiences show that I am a rotten shot. So, I will have to train to be able to hit a bear-size target with lead slugs at a maximum range of 25M/yds, preferably closer

No, you want to be able to kill a bear anywhere form 0-50 yards with slugs. Practice.

I am a slightly-built chap, so recoil has to be tamed, and the arm itself must be lightweight but reliable. I cannot be taking it apart every time it gets covered in rain or condensation. I can sometimes wipe it off. In the field I will carry it “cruiser ready” with the magazine tube loaded but with an empty chamber. I can also rotate shells out of it every night for a second set of shells, so that the shells don’t get deformed by the magazine spring. For ten months of the year it will likely be locked-up, unloaded and dis-assembled.

Using low recoil slugs and alot of practice is the way to tame recoil. Using a PAST recoil pad isn't a bad idea, either.

DIssasemble the shotgun and treat the parts with a good rust preventative, then give it a wipe with oil every night. Once a week or so, feild strip it and clean it well, and re-rust proof.

This is a good idea regardlless if the gun is blued, stanless, nickel, or parkerized. In any case, one night with out tender lovign care will hardly render your firearm unusable. :wink:

What shotguns are most easy to handle wearing gloves, or contact gloves worn inside of mittens? No tiny fiddly buttons please!

One with a tang safety, NOT a crossbolt.

I am right-handed but with a left master eye. I probably won’t get a great cheek-weld on the wire stock. What inexpensive light-gathering, (ie: fibre optic) sights are rugged enough to survive being dragged through the bush on a bear gun? Is it worth the expense and fragility of going the Red Dot sight route?

FOr sights you should use Ghost RIng. hey are fast, dont' require batteries and if you close your left eye, you shoudl be able to aim just fine with them.

How can I mount a cracker shell and a flare shell on a Cop-Stock equipped over-the-top folding stock shot gun? Is there anything better than rubber-banding the shells to the outside of the wire stock with dead bike inner tubes?

Your ammo shoud be on your belt, int he same place, every time.

So you should have your spare ammo on the right side of your belt, and I suppose you could stick a few cracker shells on the left side. I'm not a proponent of having ammo carriers on the shotgun if you are using it for bear defense int he bush, as they tend to be bulky and catch on things.

From what I hear it is nearly impossible to import a Cop-Stock. So, I am considering going the Mossberg or Remington 870 route, and then getting an extra-long stock-to-receiver attachment bolt made up, maybe with a wing-nut head, so that I can easily take the stock off for transport.
For practice, I will tape foam over my shoulder, I guess...

Can the Mossberg plastic stock be cut down to fit me if I have to go that route?

Again, if I do my job right, I should never have to shoot a bear; at worst, fire off crack flares, still....

FOlding stocks are a PITA to shoot slugs with accurately. Once agin, get a full stock. You generally can't cut down the stocks as they are hollow inside, and the buttpad is screwed onto a wider part of the stock. I've never looked at it carefully, but if the 'wide' section where the buttpad screws in runs the lenght of the stock, I don't see why it couldn't be cut.

filmbeargun said:
Let me know what you think!

I think you need to read Gary Sheltons books about bear defense. I also think you need to practice alot with your defense system.

Most importantly, I think you need to get your head around the idea that humans come first, bears second. It's all fine and nice to do your best to use non lethal methods on a bear, but not if it puts you at risk. If youare the only armed person in camp, it does put you at risk.
 
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