www .dragunov.net ,
A) i always had a certain fondness for the dragunov, the fact it was prohib , i was even more attracted to it. then i saw a romak stock on an auction site that was for an AK dragunov clone , that gave me an idea to build a PSL/CZ clone, i figure its the next best thing to owning a real one.
first i thought of adapting the stock to my SKS-D but after many hours of pondering , i realized it just wasnt going to work . then i looked at using my cz858 and i saw possiblity there altho it will require alot of dremeling , it was challenging bcos i didnt have any machinery (sold them due to down sizing) so i bot a $50 drill press from cdn tire and a dremel set from homedepot . this project was ideal for a first project , very minimal equipments needed .
i know clone/conversion arent everybodys cup of tea but i hope most of you like what i did .
my clones from top to bottom , PSL , SVD & TIGR right side
left side
all three furniture on one pic
B) how to make a dragunov PSL , SVD & TIGR clone from a CZ858.
lets start from the front and work towards the back.
1. the flash hider , originally it was a FN L1A1 (aussy, bought from trade-ex CGN dealer) converted to fit a CZ858... check with member KASAT , he is the VZ/CZ858 flash hider king on the board ,
he may have some already made for you.
bottom is FN L1A1 flash hider
2. the handguards , are the standard cz858 wood except i had it stripped off the dark stain and to my surprise i found very nice wood grain underneath, why they stained it in the first place? lord only knows .
for the PSL , i cut two slots on each sides and also sanded it and applied 2 coats of natural stain and sprayed gloss polyurethane several times.
for the SVD , i cut 3 half slots and 3 whole slots on each sides , applied 2 coats of early american stain and sprayed semi-gloss polyurethane several times .
for the TIGR , the front handguard are the standard black plastic from www.wolverinesupplies.com.
3. shortening the mag . my mag you see in the pic is a 5/12 , i added two more rounds and i also made the front a little bit longer than the 5/10 "ready made" one from wolverine for appearence reasons (do not make smaller than 5/10) .
i did a few test bends near the bottom and worked my way up , after 4 tries i manage to get it right. i bot a sheet metal vise grip from princess auto , i loop off both end to match the width of bent ends for the locking bottom plate.
3a. disassemble.
3b. measure and cut , leave 1/4" long for the bent ends for the grip to clamp.
3c. then i turn on the electrical stove (red hot) , place one of the end on the heating element , use oven mitts to hold (nothin fancy,) , surprisingly the paint dont burn easily, so after 30 sec or so , clamp tight and bend very little, leave the grip on and return to heat, repeat this process several times till the locking ends are 90 degree.
note: the metal is very brittle so it tends to snap off, go easy when bending.
3d. cut and file smooth the ends till the bottom locking plate slides over it .
3e. since i made a 12rd mag from a 30 , i cut and used alittle less than half of the mag spring.
3f. reassemble.
note: do not make it shorter than 5/10 , 5/5 wont work .
4. mounting the scope , you can buy the posp scope (#0416) and rail from teapot2 . i chose a smaller scope 6x24 than the 8x42 simply bcos the cz858 isnt a big rifle so i wanted to keep it proportion .
there are other method of attaching a scope to a CZ858 but i chose to this method bcos i felt it would be the most solid , after all this is a sniper clone rifle .... due to the eye relief, the scope had to be mounted partly beside the mag well and also bcos the receiver walls are thin , i had to attached a 1/4" x 6" x 7/8" metal bracket by drill & tap , i placed the 3 allen caps heads ( #8-32x1/2" ) on the inside of receiver , they are located 3rd , 6th & 7th hole from the left. do not put them higher cos it will interfere with the striker or carrier movements (ignore hole #4 , not needed to hold the mount and also it was interfering with carrier movement).
then i attached the rail to the bracket by drilling and tapping 3 holes , on the rail its located in the 1st , 2nd & 4th hole from the left or 1st , 2nd & 5th on the bracket .
i flip the bracket over so you can see the front shaded part where i grinded off 1 mm to compensate for a small rise on the receiver also i had to file and drill holes to accommodate the protruding axis pins (see below pic between 5th and 6th hole).
note: the screws heads on the rail below had to file down.
helpful hints : drill and tap the first hole thru both the receiver and bracket, screw it together, it will help prevent the pieces from moving before you drill the rest . repeat this process with the rail and the bracket.
always clamp pieces together before tapping and screwing , otherwise you will end up with gaps and that will make your mount wobbly
note: location of the screws are not always by choice, avoid drilling thru the serial numbers or having the screw heads hinder the movements of the carrier, striker and trigger .
5. the laminated stocks came unfinish , very ruff surface (see "X" block). if you bot the stock that came with hardware, you would receive butt plate and swivel combo , a screw set to mount the upper part of the stock and a red bottom cap. the stock have hole drill already for the screw set.
the pic below are the finish product of a PSL and SVD stocks , the SVD was converted from a PSL stock , the tigr was converted from a AK mak-90 thumbhole stock .
how to make and install a PSL stock:
5a. remove the pistol grip positioning plate on your receiver.
5b. cut out block "X" , leave a gap of 1/8" for the ferrule, its advisable you leave a smaller gap as for you can always increase the gap when needed , especially if you were drilling the PG hole and you were a wee bit off towards the front(which would increase the gap).
5c. to establish the angle of the pistol hole , you can either measure the angle or place the PG screw in the receiver and then trace the outlines on to the grip.
5d. drill the PG screw hole by using a drill press , make sure everything is level and your drill will move down between the traced outlines .
5e. you need to acquire a screw from the metal folding stock set, the screw will hold your existing ferrule and a bracket in place. make the bracket from 1.29mm sheet metal strapping from homedepot , cut it with a metal shear and drill the appropriate holes for the ferrule screw and the stock screw assembly , bend and spray flat black paint (armor coat) .
5f. the ferrule screw will protrude alittle so you may need to file the stock and drill in 1/8" deep with a spade (3/4") drill to make room for it (see pic below).
5g. most people will find that the grip is too wide so you need to remove some wood from behind the grip , i used a half-round rasp .
5h. you will have to remove part of the red bottom cap due to the PG screw is in the way.
5i. sand smooth and stain twice and spray poly 6-9 times . semi-gloss for SVD & TIGR and gloss for PSL.
from clockwise: stock, screw set , folders screw , bracket , ferrule, cut-out "X" block, red PG cap and screw, PG screw and nut.
6.heres another way to adapt the stock .
7.cheek rest . an old top handguard served as a new SVD cheek rest , it fits perfectly where the original PSL cheek rest was cut off. i stuff the rest with foam and cover it with leather and it snapped in place , later i may use a screw to hold it in place.
cost: : i forgot to mention the cost , not included the scope cos i have to have one anyways cos my eyes are shot.
1. flash hider $25 milled
2. handguard set wood $50
3. mag, got it already.... sheet metal vise grip $10
4. stock $20 +15ship= $35 (www .sksman.com also has them at $35) .
5. poly and spray paint , parts , etc $40
total dragunov romak PSL kit cost $160, a bit more for the russian SVD kit , not including the labour .
other dragunov link .
www .ioinc.us/ssg97article.pdf (remove space after www ) ... thanks deckard
special thanks to my son for all his help and also to edon for his advice on reducing a mag size and ryushi on how to mount a scope.
note: before importing any parts , please read the legalese forum.
A) i always had a certain fondness for the dragunov, the fact it was prohib , i was even more attracted to it. then i saw a romak stock on an auction site that was for an AK dragunov clone , that gave me an idea to build a PSL/CZ clone, i figure its the next best thing to owning a real one.
first i thought of adapting the stock to my SKS-D but after many hours of pondering , i realized it just wasnt going to work . then i looked at using my cz858 and i saw possiblity there altho it will require alot of dremeling , it was challenging bcos i didnt have any machinery (sold them due to down sizing) so i bot a $50 drill press from cdn tire and a dremel set from homedepot . this project was ideal for a first project , very minimal equipments needed .
i know clone/conversion arent everybodys cup of tea but i hope most of you like what i did .
my clones from top to bottom , PSL , SVD & TIGR right side
left side
all three furniture on one pic
B) how to make a dragunov PSL , SVD & TIGR clone from a CZ858.
lets start from the front and work towards the back.
1. the flash hider , originally it was a FN L1A1 (aussy, bought from trade-ex CGN dealer) converted to fit a CZ858... check with member KASAT , he is the VZ/CZ858 flash hider king on the board ,
he may have some already made for you.bottom is FN L1A1 flash hider
2. the handguards , are the standard cz858 wood except i had it stripped off the dark stain and to my surprise i found very nice wood grain underneath, why they stained it in the first place? lord only knows .
for the PSL , i cut two slots on each sides and also sanded it and applied 2 coats of natural stain and sprayed gloss polyurethane several times.
for the SVD , i cut 3 half slots and 3 whole slots on each sides , applied 2 coats of early american stain and sprayed semi-gloss polyurethane several times .
for the TIGR , the front handguard are the standard black plastic from www.wolverinesupplies.com.
3. shortening the mag . my mag you see in the pic is a 5/12 , i added two more rounds and i also made the front a little bit longer than the 5/10 "ready made" one from wolverine for appearence reasons (do not make smaller than 5/10) .
i did a few test bends near the bottom and worked my way up , after 4 tries i manage to get it right. i bot a sheet metal vise grip from princess auto , i loop off both end to match the width of bent ends for the locking bottom plate.
3a. disassemble.
3b. measure and cut , leave 1/4" long for the bent ends for the grip to clamp.
3c. then i turn on the electrical stove (red hot) , place one of the end on the heating element , use oven mitts to hold (nothin fancy,
) , surprisingly the paint dont burn easily, so after 30 sec or so , clamp tight and bend very little, leave the grip on and return to heat, repeat this process several times till the locking ends are 90 degree.note: the metal is very brittle so it tends to snap off, go easy when bending.
3d. cut and file smooth the ends till the bottom locking plate slides over it .
3e. since i made a 12rd mag from a 30 , i cut and used alittle less than half of the mag spring.
3f. reassemble.
note: do not make it shorter than 5/10 , 5/5 wont work .
4. mounting the scope , you can buy the posp scope (#0416) and rail from teapot2 . i chose a smaller scope 6x24 than the 8x42 simply bcos the cz858 isnt a big rifle so i wanted to keep it proportion .
there are other method of attaching a scope to a CZ858 but i chose to this method bcos i felt it would be the most solid , after all this is a sniper clone rifle .... due to the eye relief, the scope had to be mounted partly beside the mag well and also bcos the receiver walls are thin , i had to attached a 1/4" x 6" x 7/8" metal bracket by drill & tap , i placed the 3 allen caps heads ( #8-32x1/2" ) on the inside of receiver , they are located 3rd , 6th & 7th hole from the left. do not put them higher cos it will interfere with the striker or carrier movements (ignore hole #4 , not needed to hold the mount and also it was interfering with carrier movement).
then i attached the rail to the bracket by drilling and tapping 3 holes , on the rail its located in the 1st , 2nd & 4th hole from the left or 1st , 2nd & 5th on the bracket .
i flip the bracket over so you can see the front shaded part where i grinded off 1 mm to compensate for a small rise on the receiver also i had to file and drill holes to accommodate the protruding axis pins (see below pic between 5th and 6th hole).
note: the screws heads on the rail below had to file down.
helpful hints : drill and tap the first hole thru both the receiver and bracket, screw it together, it will help prevent the pieces from moving before you drill the rest . repeat this process with the rail and the bracket.
always clamp pieces together before tapping and screwing , otherwise you will end up with gaps and that will make your mount wobbly
note: location of the screws are not always by choice, avoid drilling thru the serial numbers or having the screw heads hinder the movements of the carrier, striker and trigger .
5. the laminated stocks came unfinish , very ruff surface (see "X" block). if you bot the stock that came with hardware, you would receive butt plate and swivel combo , a screw set to mount the upper part of the stock and a red bottom cap. the stock have hole drill already for the screw set.
the pic below are the finish product of a PSL and SVD stocks , the SVD was converted from a PSL stock , the tigr was converted from a AK mak-90 thumbhole stock .
how to make and install a PSL stock:
5a. remove the pistol grip positioning plate on your receiver.
5b. cut out block "X" , leave a gap of 1/8" for the ferrule, its advisable you leave a smaller gap as for you can always increase the gap when needed , especially if you were drilling the PG hole and you were a wee bit off towards the front(which would increase the gap).
5c. to establish the angle of the pistol hole , you can either measure the angle or place the PG screw in the receiver and then trace the outlines on to the grip.
5d. drill the PG screw hole by using a drill press , make sure everything is level and your drill will move down between the traced outlines .
5e. you need to acquire a screw from the metal folding stock set, the screw will hold your existing ferrule and a bracket in place. make the bracket from 1.29mm sheet metal strapping from homedepot , cut it with a metal shear and drill the appropriate holes for the ferrule screw and the stock screw assembly , bend and spray flat black paint (armor coat) .
5f. the ferrule screw will protrude alittle so you may need to file the stock and drill in 1/8" deep with a spade (3/4") drill to make room for it (see pic below).
5g. most people will find that the grip is too wide so you need to remove some wood from behind the grip , i used a half-round rasp .
5h. you will have to remove part of the red bottom cap due to the PG screw is in the way.
5i. sand smooth and stain twice and spray poly 6-9 times . semi-gloss for SVD & TIGR and gloss for PSL.
from clockwise: stock, screw set , folders screw , bracket , ferrule, cut-out "X" block, red PG cap and screw, PG screw and nut.
6.heres another way to adapt the stock .
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3220766#post3220766I like the CZ grip better than the AK. Looks nicer to me.
Anyway, for anyone who wants to see how to shape the AK stock to fit the CZ/VZ here are some pics. Other than chopping off the part of the ak stock that fits into the ak's rear trunion and widdleing whats left to fit the CZ/VZ buttstock spacer, you sinply have to drill a hole for the screw.
This is not hard as most AK stocks have a space for the cleaning kit anyway so you'll be half way there. Use a wood boaring bit only as big as the threaded end of the CZ's stock bolt to drill the hole first. Then use one as big as the head of the bolt and drill from the rear to widen out the hole a few cm's so the bolt head can seat in the stock and pull tight to the rifle.
Make sure you get the angle you want first!!!! The first time I tried this my angle wasn't steep enough and I couldn't use my sights so I had to refit it.
Another issue is a cosmetic one. The ak stock has a slot for the rear trunion tail. I just cut out a piece of metal to fit, drilled a screw hole, and blued it. The CZ's stock spacer hides the end.
7.cheek rest . an old top handguard served as a new SVD cheek rest , it fits perfectly where the original PSL cheek rest was cut off. i stuff the rest with foam and cover it with leather and it snapped in place , later i may use a screw to hold it in place.
cost: : i forgot to mention the cost , not included the scope cos i have to have one anyways cos my eyes are shot.
1. flash hider $25 milled
2. handguard set wood $50
3. mag, got it already.... sheet metal vise grip $10
4. stock $20 +15ship= $35 (www .sksman.com also has them at $35) .
5. poly and spray paint , parts , etc $40
total dragunov romak PSL kit cost $160, a bit more for the russian SVD kit , not including the labour .
other dragunov link .
www .ioinc.us/ssg97article.pdf (remove space after www ) ... thanks deckard
special thanks to my son for all his help and also to edon for his advice on reducing a mag size and ryushi on how to mount a scope.
note: before importing any parts , please read the legalese forum.
Last edited:
)
