DIY: installing Choate mount on SKS
- Thread starter Curtton
- Start date
alright finally got a drill press and the mount. now need a cobalt bit I think. Spent 2 hours drilling one hole and I dont think im halfway through! had to resharpen the titanium coated bit 3 times, what a pain in the ass! that russian metal is really tought.
I wa also not able to find 8-32 cap screws, anyone know where they are available?
tried CT, rona, home depot and princess auto with no luck
I wa also not able to find 8-32 cap screws, anyone know where they are available?
tried CT, rona, home depot and princess auto with no luck
Check the small assorted sets in the organized trays at PA. They have allen head cap screws with a bunch of #8-32. They also have cobalt bits too, they sell small sets of same size bits in black sleeves. They should have 9/64 but were sold out when I needed them so I just grabbed a complete cobalt set. I went with the lowest speed I could, about 600 rpm or so to keep the heat down and used lots of cutting oil
fastenal or brofasco should have them. how fast are you running that bit? your DP may not be fast enough to spin that bit the correct speed. you can try going smaller then with the tap drill that will take metal away from the web of the bit and it won't dull so quickly use a light oil as much as you need and peck with the bit that will clear chips and suck out some heat.
If you still have an issue PM me I have another solution that could help. Its a bit of a PITA but it works
go back to princess auto and look for the assortment of cap screws (different sizes) , like supernova said below .
The drill press is running at 570 rpm (lowest setting) and I am using oil to cool it down
I guess I'll have to recheck at PA for cap screws.
that is a lot too slow the math comes out at 2000rpm I would run that at between 1200 to 1500 smaller drills have to go faster than big drills. when its going too slow it is taking 10 big bites instead of 30 nibbles.
CT had the cobalt bit and tap, but no allen machine screws.
Also picked up a center punch to start the holes, it was dull and flat after one hit on the receiver!
I set the drill press to 1400 rpm and that seemed to work
got a HSS bit as well and tried that 1st before the cobalt bit...... it was dull in 30 seconds
the cobalt bit made short work of the russian sks steel, 2-5 mins and it was through vs. the 2 hours I spent with the titanium coated bit and not even getting through.
I will post some pics in a bit
Also picked up a center punch to start the holes, it was dull and flat after one hit on the receiver!
I set the drill press to 1400 rpm and that seemed to work
got a HSS bit as well and tried that 1st before the cobalt bit...... it was dull in 30 seconds
the cobalt bit made short work of the russian sks steel, 2-5 mins and it was through vs. the 2 hours I spent with the titanium coated bit and not even getting through.
I will post some pics in a bit
The staff at CT are r-tards. The 8-32 allen bolts are usually found in those slidey racks that u put the bolts into bags and then number the bags with part # and quantity. The rack at my local CT is located in the automotive department.
There's a rack in hardware too, but again its the one in auto - atleast in the store near me (Queensway and Eastmall intersection in Toronto. #### I'll see if I can find u CT's part number for the bolt if u want?
There's a rack in hardware too, but again its the one in auto - atleast in the store near me (Queensway and Eastmall intersection in Toronto. #### I'll see if I can find u CT's part number for the bolt if u want?
PerversPépère
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Shawinigan (Quebec)
When the hole is drilled through, I usually put the tap inside the press drill chuck, take the belt off the pulleys and rotate the chuck by hand while putting slight pressure (about a pound) on the lever.
It makes the tapping job easier as there cannot be any lateral flex on the tap and gives you a very good control and feel of the tap. I never broke a tap doing it that way.
Easy does it.
PP.
It makes the tapping job easier as there cannot be any lateral flex on the tap and gives you a very good control and feel of the tap. I never broke a tap doing it that way.
Easy does it.
PP.
this works but what I like better is to run the press at 80 or 100 If it goes that low and let the tap pull itself in when you see the point come through shut the press off an inertia will pull the tap the rest of the way and if it stops on something the tap won't break most of the time YMMV
mg4201: a center drill would have been excellent, but as someone mentioned, the kids at canadian tire have no idea what they are doing and I didnt see any on the shelves, so I got the punch instead, but of course that didnt last.
PerversPépère: that is an excellent idea, I was thinking about it after how it would be great if I could just attach the tap to the drill chuck and manually turn it, but didnt think I could do it with my drill press. however I didnt break the tap, so it turned out well.
mhowarth: thanks for the help with the screws! I will have to go and see the auto section this time. I bought some SS screws at home depot for the meantime and they seem to hold up for now, but dont look the greatest.
scoped:
red dot:
now its an evil high power baby killing sniper assault rifle (if the media ever reported on it)
PerversPépère: that is an excellent idea, I was thinking about it after how it would be great if I could just attach the tap to the drill chuck and manually turn it, but didnt think I could do it with my drill press. however I didnt break the tap, so it turned out well.
mhowarth: thanks for the help with the screws! I will have to go and see the auto section this time. I bought some SS screws at home depot for the meantime and they seem to hold up for now, but dont look the greatest.
scoped:
red dot:
now its an evil high power baby killing sniper assault rifle (if the media ever reported on it)
