Does any fancy Gun oil really help prevent rust?

I really like Eezox as well, I now use it on all kinds of other steel parts when they don't get painted, a drop or 2 goes a long way.
 
Boesheild Use to use this on my tablesaw/jointer etc in a unheated shop and it worked quite well. Never tried on firearms but would assume it to be equally effective.
 
Ballistol is not hydrophilic, it does not attract water.

Ballistol is water soluble and was developed for the German Army prior to WW 1.

I use a Ballistol water mix to clean my black powder weapons after a shoot. I have found that I can give the weapon a quick clean at the range and leave it for a couple of days before giving it a full cleaning.
With the Ballistol water mix, the water evaporates and leaves the oil on the weapon.

The best preservative to keep you firearms in good shape is to store them properly so the air circulates and set up a cleaning schedule suitable to the conditions of use or storage..
 
bigbull said:
I have been using Eezox now for six years, my rifle has not been lubricated for 5 years, I hunt northern Saskatchewan in the last two weeks of November every year, it's been 5 years since I treated my gun and it has not shown signs of corrosion yet, in and out of the cold, the only care has been to dry out the bore after the gun has warmed up indoors and stopped sweating. It took me a few hours to do the Eezox treatment initially but after it was applied and left to dry it is invisible, actually hard to believe it is even there but it works, I think this year I will strip it down and give it it's second treatment. Keeping my guns rust free in the cold was always a problem because any lubricant we used always stiffened up the guns operation in the cold, so operating dry was the most reliable way to hunt but now with the Eezox corrossion has been wiped out of my mind.

BB
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Something I should have mentioned about applying Eezox but forgot with my original post was how I messed up trying to put the treatment on the first time.
I followed the instructions but took it upon myself to put more Eezox on than was required, you know if a little is good then more is better, the only thing I can say is DON'T DO IT...! I made a mess because the Eezox will never dry and stay a messy sticky concistency . Follow the instructions and only put on only enough to wet the degreased metal, you will notice the metal turn color from the usual grey degreased metal look to a nice deep blue remeniscent of oiled blue, a very small wetting is all you need paying attention to corners and crevices where puddling can ocur, use a q-tip to dry out these areas and leave standing in a warm dry area for 24hrs, it will dry and leave an invisible protective surface, everything on the firearm can be done internally and externally.
BB
 
Wally1966 said:
Some job to keep the rust off of anything in newfoundland, my son!
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I spent two years in Newfoundland me son, two of my best years, you are lucky to live there.
It's just as bad evrywhere else rust has no borders except coastline communities they are the worst I would say,
starting a rust prevention program is one step closer to having rust free firearms, most of
the time neglect, bad practices or inefective products are what causes alot of corrossion problems.
BB
 
I love my Ballistol. I used to live in a city with 85% average humidity. Always wiped guns with Ballistol, inside and out, before placing them on the rack. Never had rust issues...

Love the smell too...
 
A small but important point in regards to Ballistol. It isn't soluble in water, it's miscible. A small but highly important difference. If it were soluble then water and the oil would blend into one and the water would be able to rust the metal despite the mixture's recipe.

Instead the Ballistol breaks up into very small droplets that disperse within the water while not actually dissolving. Which is why the water and Ballistol "Moose Milk" is white and cloudy. It's much the same as if a fine powder were put in the water and shaken up to form a cloudy mixture.

But if this "Moose Milk" comes in contact with a surface such as metal or plastic the oil has the lesser surface tension so it adheres to the surface more easily than the water. The droplets will come out of the water and form a full coverage film of oil on the surface. The water will still be there but it's held up off the surface on a film of the Ballistol.

Another form of miscible oil is the white coolant commonly used in metal machining. They call it soluble oil but in truth the oil and water really never do mix. It's simply that something in the oil's makeup causes it to break down into the small droplets that float around in the water.

One thing both these oils share is that over time the droplets WILL come out of the water. My bottle of "Moose Milk" I use as patch lube for my flintlock develops a layer of clear oil on top of the milky portion after a week or more. The longer it's not shaken the thicker the clear Ballistol layer on top. Same with the machinery coolant, the tub will develop a layer of pure oil when let to stand for a few days without running. This is a further sign that the oil didn't dissolve in the water and that in fact it's just a finely chopped up mixture of separate water and oil mixed together.
 
Does PH Youngs 303 still exist? You mixed it with water to make aquaoil back in the corrosive days, Far better is available today but cleaners and preservatives are not always the same brew,
 
When I was posted to Greenwood Nova Scotia I used good old rust check on my hunting rifles. Then hunting in the rain wasn't so bad. Also G96 works really well on my collectible rifles.
I have since moved to Alberta and only use G96 now.
 
sail32 said:
Ballistol is not hydrophilic, it does not attract water.

Ballistol is water soluble and was developed for the German Army prior to WW 1.

I use a Ballistol water mix to clean my black powder weapons after a shoot. I have found that I can give the weapon a quick clean at the range and leave it for a couple of days before giving it a full cleaning.
With the Ballistol water mix, the water evaporates and leaves the oil on the weapon.

The best preservative to keep you firearms in good shape is to store them properly so the air circulates and set up a cleaning schedule suitable to the conditions of use or storage..
Click to expand...


It IS hydrophilic, that's why you can mix it with water. If it was hydrophobic, it wouldn't mix.
Ballistol is mineral oil, about 60%, oleic acids (fatty acids) and up to 20% various alcohols.

What does everyone constantly harp about that alcohol in gasoline absorbing moisture? Even when the alcohols do evaporate, mineral oil is hydrophilic. Oleic acid is both hydrophilic and the other end of the molecule is hydrophobic, much like soap. This is what makes Ballistol hydrophilic. One end of the molecule binds to the oils, the other to water, just like soap. The oleic acids don't evaporate, so the end mix does attract water molecules.

It used to say on their website it was hydrophilic and not suitable for long term storage.

Not saying it's bad, but there are lots of products that are far better. (most any product in fact).

Here are test results

http://www.marlinowners.com/forum/336/113605-another-oil-test-ballistol.html

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P1090295_zpsfc507326.jpg


P1090297_zps9173b301.jpg
 
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