Dog training collar recomendations please

Dr.Chris

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Hi All,

I'm looking to start distance training with my golden doodle puppy (5.5 months) and I'd like to get an electronic collar. Anyone have any words of wisdom or specific model or brand recommendations for me?

Thanks,
Chris
 
Tritronics are the best known training systems for sporting dogs, but you may want to look into the Radio Systems "3/4 Mile Advanced Remote Trainer" (aka "Sport Dog") training collar. Radio Systems makes dog containment products and have been getting into training products over the last few years. This particular unit has a 1200 yard range, has a waterproof receiver (collar) and can be expanded to two dogs. The Trainer can deliver an audible tone or select from eight levels of stimulus.

We well them for around $325 plus GST and shipping. They come with a one year warranty and represent excellent value for the money.
 
collar

If you simply want the best. Tritronics. I've used them for over 20 years.

BUT You need to get a training program in place first. 6 months is young for long distance work. He should be starting close work ay that age.

The e collar is not a magic pill. It is just a bigger stick if not used properly.
 
What Redfrog said. Training collars are a good way to f@#k up a good dog real fast. 6 months is real young to start a dog on a training collar if you don't have a good understanding of what you are doing. Are you a member of a local club, or can you get help from a local trainer?

Anyways, here's a great place to buy reconditioned tri-tronics collars for a decent price. h ttp://www.collarclinic.com/ . I would suggest sticking with tri-tronics. I know a few people that have tried the different collars that are on the market, all of them are now using tri-tronics.

7.62mm
 
1- Your dog is too young.
2- Read, read, and read some more. Electronic collars are a great tool IF USED PROPERLY. A good number of dogs have been ruined from improper use.
Redfrog and 7.62 speak the truth!
 
Practice your recovery drills until 2nd nature and training collars aren't needed. The dog can hear a hellovalot better than you do, and should never be let out of your sight in the field in the first place ...
 
There is a huge amount of controversy here in the UK about collars and moves to have them banned. The problem is that some trainers want their dogs to perform as yours do, way out retrieves which is what our trialling system promotes yet are unable to produce dogs that can do this without the same methods as you use. As there is little tradition for these collars here, there is also a serious lack of experience in depth. This means that they get used as a panacea rather than as a final reinforcement. What I personally found uncomfortable was a conversation with a retriever trainer in Ontario. This chap trialled professionally. He asked me (I work up to nine spaniels admittedly not in trials but live in the field) if I used a collar and I replied no! He asked me if I used the old method of beating a stubborn or recalcriant dog and I replied no! Simply I said that if I couldnt get a dog to work through encouragement and praise then I had failed and I wasnt going to punish a dog for my failings. I have done that once to my shame and ruined a dogs potential. I will work a dog to its limits which are normally better than mine.
I will not punish a dog in the field for a retrieve failure. I will discipline a dog for fighting but thats all.
Edited to add I used an anti bark collar on the same mutt as he was hell to drive with. I keep the collar but dont use it anymore. I'm deaf enough now and the dogs are only showing their eagerness for a run out!
 
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Griffoneur said:
1- Your dog is too young.
2- Read, read, and read some more. Electronic collars are a great tool IF USED PROPERLY. A good number of dogs have been ruined from improper use.
Redfrog and 7.62 speak the truth!

I know the no-bark collar did wonders for my dog.:bangHead: Every time she hears a beep now she goes ballistic.( two warning beeps and then a zap) And if we are not home and she hears a beep, well, she tares the place apart.

Not good if 3/4's of everything made today goes beep!!!!

I'll probably never use an electronic collar. be it anti bark or training, on any dog.
 
Better to seek the advice of some of the best trainers who routinely & effectively use the collars first ... cause even modest, best-intentioned
misuse will set you & the dog a lot further than if a collar was never used.

The Trainer needs Training FIRST ... then the Dog !
 
beretta boy said:
Better to seek the advice of some of the best trainers who routinely & effectively use the collars first ... cause even modest, best-intentioned
misuse will set you & the dog a lot further than if a collar was never used.

The Trainer needs Training FIRST ... then the Dog !

X2

Lots of good suggestions here.

You definitely have to know what you're doing before you set out using a shock collar.

I generally discourage people from buying an electronic training collar unless they have had appropriate training (our situations usually involve obedience and behavioral problems like dog aggression or inappropriate chasing of game, livestock or cars).

Misusing a shock collar can potentially mess up a dog for life (it's like breaking crystal - unce you drop it, it'll never be the same again). On the other hand, if the dog is doing something that can get it killed (like chasing livestock or cars) then a shock collar can, literally, be a life-saver.

Bottom line: Get trained first. Just 'cause you've got a violin doesn't make you a musician.

One more thing: You've got a puppy who, for the next several months, simply won't have the attention span of an adult. I would suggest that you seek out someone who is experienced in the type of training that you need and invest the time in learning how to teach your dog.
 
collars

I'll try a more detailed response in light of someof the other posts here.

TimC, I'm going to pull one line from your excellent post. It illustrates exactly why a person should NOT try to train with an e-collar without being trained himself first.

" I wasnt going to punish a dog for my failings."

The collar when used correctly is not used to "punish" the dog. It is a training tool.
If a person's training program is one of "crime and punishment" he has his work cut out for him.

I have trained many dogs and some were bright , eager to learn, and a joy to work with. Winners in every sense. I could still set the training session so that the dog would fail.:eek: So should the dog be "punished for failing?
Not at my place.

The trainer should set the pace at which the lessons are conducted. He should decide the difficulty of the lesson. A very good dog will not only allow him to do that, but will tell him when and how to do it as well. The trainer must only pay attention.

In the retriever game, one part of the program is "force breaking" I wish someone would think of a different name for it, as it puts people off before they even know what it is or how it works.

I have force broke some dogs at 7-8 mos. and I have had to wait til 18 mos for some. Each dog has similarities, but they also are different. A good trainer observes the dog and "listens" to the dog, and sets his program accordingly.

There is a difference between discipline and punishment.

Dog training philosophy cannot be explained in a few lines, but if a dog is running around and I call him. If he doesn't come, I then stop calling [he already heard me and knows what I expect him to do at that command], and I walk him down. when he finally stops and lets me approach, I'll reach down and pinch his ear. He will howl as if I was tearing it off, even though it's just a little pinch. I then tell him to sit. Of course he will sit. I then tell him to heel and we continue whatever it was we were doing.

This is discipline. The dog made a bad choice and was corrected. He then got the opportunity to make two correct choices, sit and heel. It is a win win. next time he will be more inclined to respond to "come" and he got to finish this episode doing two things correctly.

BUT. If I call and he does not come in, and I wait til he does, often much later] then I slap, kick, or hit with a stick. That is punishment. It serves no good except to relieve some frustration in the handler. The dog was punished for coming in. next time he will be more reluctant to come to the call. It is now a lesson he must first "unlearn" and then relearn.

With the collar it is a longer stick. You call the dog, he doesn't come in. You burn the dog he yells. and runs around because he feels the shock, but doesn't know where or why. You burn again. The dog figures out that the "collar" burns and the only place it stops is by your side.

Soooo he will cringe when you put the collar on him, not pay attention to the lesson because he is afraid of the collar and then you will burn him because he isn't responding to the lesson. The other thing that happens is he will be reluctant to leave your side, [the safe area] Try to teach a dog to retrieve when he never leaves your side.:eek:

So I guess this is a long winded way to say the collar is an excellent tool, but you must learn how to PROPERLY use it, or it isn't gong to be fun for the dog and it is gonna do a lot of damage to a training program.
 
I completely agree and my point is that we lack the experience over here to use the tool properly. The problem is too many people punish a dog for their own failings. I have been guilty of this. I like my dogs to feel that all I am doingis praising them. It is difficult to ignore bad behaviour and the ear twitch is a good method of negative reinforcement.
I have lost count of the people I have taught that are amazed when you tell them that the dog if returned to you shouldnt be punished. It as you said only makes the dog think that returning warrants punishment. If you cant make a dog do your bidding then you are better off not giving a command that will be ignored. I believe that you must catch the dog, place at heel and start again. I however am too old and fat to be chasing springers around fields so I rely on early conditioning. All of my pups love to run up to me in the garden or field and are never told off or chastised for doing so. Iwelcome them each and fuss over them. Pufter perhaps but my dogs come when called and I can take a 4 month pup out on the beating line to work pheasants to the guns and know that he will pay attention to the older dogs and learn a lot.
It works, its not trialling standards but then I dont need that from my dogs. I need them to work on the beating line, pick up, do duck or goose and pigeon work from a hide or otherwise and finally to point and track deer. I am lucky in that my wife and I love our dogs and we have enough to choose from.
 
Go to obedience school with your dog and learn how to train your dog properly. If you do that, you won't need to depend on electronic devices, batteries, range, electronic fences, etc - keep it simple. Remember that your dog is still young - a toddler at best, so have patience. Discipline should be used very sparingly if at all. Standard poodles are number 1 in intelligence and Golden Labs are probably in the top 5. If you have problems training your dog - its your fault.
 
Redfrog said:
In the retriever game, one part of the program is "force breaking" I wish someone would think of a different name for it, as it puts people off before they even know what it is or how it works.


How about "Trained Retrieve". I have heard that used on a few occasions, and it doesn't seem to put people off as much. Another good post by the way Redfrog. Getting a retriever to the level required for hunt tests and field trials is very in depth and comprehensive, and the E-collar is just another tool in the trainers tool box of techniques he or she uses. Maybe the original poster does not even need a collar for their dog, but if they do end up getting one, I would definately seek some advice from respected trainers or from a local clubs members.

7.62mm
 
Thanks for the advice

Hi All,

Thanks for tyhe advice. I will hold off on any distance training until he is a little older. He is an awsome pup now and will consistently retrieve tennis balls shot from a slingshot at 50 yards or more, even with minor distractions in a park setting.

As for the trainer, in addition to eventual distance training I want to buy it to correct digging behaviour in the backyard. You have to correct what he is doing within three seconds or he doesn't understand what he was doing wrong. I thought this collar might be a good way to fix that since I can catch him in the act.

Chris
 
Get him into a proper kennel with a concrete run .... No digging.

Exercise him plenty, with a modicum of training to burn off some
of that excess energy ( digging is most often boredom and
a means of releasing some pent-up energy) ... No Digging.

And by all means, get your but out there to personally reinforce
"No Digging".
 
When your dog starts digging say "No" in a growly deep voice. When the dog stops, say "YES", "good boy", in a friendly, happy voice and reward with a treat if available. Your dog is much more receptive than you think. Your dog does not need a shock collar. Shock collars are for lazy people who are not interested in paying attention to or training their dogs or for older, psychologically and intellectually damaged dogs that are too far gone to control with obedience training. Trust me, do the obedience training - you've got a very intelligent and trainable dog. I would advise against a fenced area with a concrete run. Golden Doodles are family dogs and need to be around people.
 
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Here are some happy dogs;
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