Downright ugly v block install

T

terr92

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Today I wanted to re stock my 10/22. When I took it out of the old stock I discovered that the smith that built the rifle did a terrible job with the v block. Not only is it installed up side down he also completely ruined one of the vblock screws. Of course I can't get the screw out. Also notice the marks on the barrel from where he used a vice without protecting the metal. To say I am pissed is an understatement. I expected that a smith that advertises himself as a smith would have the ability to do this job correctly. Does anybody have a suggestion for getting the screw out. I am disabled and don't have great movement or strength in my hands so take that into consideration.0
 
I've had luck getting stripped Allen bolts out by tapping in a slightly oversized torx bit with a hamner then using a ratchet to remove it.
Might not work with that however.
 
Hitzy said:
I've had luck getting stripped Allen bolts out by tapping in a slightly oversized torx bit with a hamner then using a ratchet to remove it.
Might not work with that however.
Click to expand...

+1 on this method, used it quite a few times over the years.

Stripped screw extractor in the right size should also work.

Are you sure the work was done by a smith and not a monkey?
 
This "smith" is living proof that any jackass in Canada can call themselves a gunsmith and get away with it. There is no recognized certification in Canada for gunsmiths.. Just pay the money and get a business license from the CFO and BAM your the next Samuel Colt .
 
Cut the head off, or file it off, then the block will fall away and tension will be off the threads, you need a new screw anyway.
 
Yea, I spent $120 to the action and barrel powder coated and then I find this. When I picked up the rifle I noticed the black marker trying to hide the damage. I pointed it out and the guy just shrugged. I just checked his Google reviews, every one loves him.
 
Is that a Ruger 10/22 target model? Did the smith remove the barrel to cerokote the rifle?

I don’t understand why a factory barrel would need to be cranked on. They should be loose.
 
Yikes, that is something scary to discover. I have had good success using screw extractors on damaged screws
 
coleman1495 said:
Is that a Ruger 10/22 target model? Did the smith remove the barrel to cerokote the rifle?

I don’t understand why a factory barrel would need to be cranked on. They should be loose.
Click to expand...

Not a factory target model. The only Ruger parts are the bolt, charge handle, mag release and magazine. Receiver and barrel are Dlask. I had them both powder coated separately and then took all the parts to the smith to assemble. The barrel and receiver were designed for a 'press fit', not an easy slide in. The idea is for a very ridged connection to help with the accuracy.
 
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