Downright ugly v block install
- Thread starter terr92
- Start date
Best is gonna be to use the Dremel and beaver away at the head of the bolt until it pops off.
Should be able to deal with the remains of the screw after the rest is apart and out of the way. Vise Grips, clamped down as tight as you can on the remains, then back off the clamping, adjust the screw a bit tighter, and clamp down some more without moving the screw.
On the likely chance that the screw doesn't simply spin free. No telling what the clown may have used in the way of secret sauce, to go along with the workmanship!
Should be able to deal with the remains of the screw after the rest is apart and out of the way. Vise Grips, clamped down as tight as you can on the remains, then back off the clamping, adjust the screw a bit tighter, and clamp down some more without moving the screw.
On the likely chance that the screw doesn't simply spin free. No telling what the clown may have used in the way of secret sauce, to go along with the workmanship!
Go to your local auto mechanic as they always have the tools for taking out broken/damaged screws and bolts. I too am disabled because I was a truck, heavy equipment mechanic and welder so I know all about your situation. Hope this help you out.
Assuming it's torqued that tight and the torx trick doesn't work, It's a relatively small job to hacksaw and remove it.
If I were in the OP's situation, I'd take it to Dlask or bits of pieces for example and ask them to redo the barrel install. (btw I haven't used either, just know they have a good reputation).
I know someone that is very handy that botched the install of his own 10/22 heavy barrel similar to this one because it was tighter than he thought. Perhaps in a hurry he went straight to using tools that marked up the barrel when tapping wasn't working. Same sort of thing as the OP got. The added complication is that the extractor groove has to end up indexed in the right spot.
If one slows down and does some preliminary measurements, the whole mess can be avoided with a few minutes of emery cloth on the ID of the hole before the attempt is made.
So I suspect the gunsmith rushed it, then tried to hide his screw up. He should have known that powder coat was not going to like the vise treatment, because once the metal underneath is deformed it lets go. Didn't put in soft jaws or, they couldn't hold the barrel I suppose.
And this all makes the OP's gunsmith look bad on this simple project. Certainly one I would avoid.
If I were in the OP's situation, I'd take it to Dlask or bits of pieces for example and ask them to redo the barrel install. (btw I haven't used either, just know they have a good reputation).
I know someone that is very handy that botched the install of his own 10/22 heavy barrel similar to this one because it was tighter than he thought. Perhaps in a hurry he went straight to using tools that marked up the barrel when tapping wasn't working. Same sort of thing as the OP got. The added complication is that the extractor groove has to end up indexed in the right spot.
If one slows down and does some preliminary measurements, the whole mess can be avoided with a few minutes of emery cloth on the ID of the hole before the attempt is made.
So I suspect the gunsmith rushed it, then tried to hide his screw up. He should have known that powder coat was not going to like the vise treatment, because once the metal underneath is deformed it lets go. Didn't put in soft jaws or, they couldn't hold the barrel I suppose.
And this all makes the OP's gunsmith look bad on this simple project. Certainly one I would avoid.
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Never heard of JaguarBC Gunsmithing before but I'm glad it finally came out who did the work!
Why anyone would be discreet about who did the "work" is beyond me..... if a person is willing to let that leave the shop, and charge money for the service, then they should be willing to take the criticism as well.
It's pretty embarrassing for a "smith" to mess up working on a 10/22..... even without the arrow it's pretty clear the part is not sitting right.
Take a sharp drill bit of a slightly smaller diameter than the screwhead, in a good drill, and
drill the head off the bolt. This will free the block, then you can remove
the rest of the screw with vise-grips. Dave.
drill the head off the bolt. This will free the block, then you can remove
the rest of the screw with vise-grips. Dave.
wayupnorth
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Northern Alberta
that is nasty!
Dlask is in BC and im sure he could fix that up for you.
he also will put one of his barrels into one of his receivers for cheap (usually free).
for where you are now in your build and with how much you've put into it id just send it to Dlask and eat the bill.
then your gonna have to send it back to to get some more paint too..... yuk!
sorry for your troubles, nasty business.
Dlask is in BC and im sure he could fix that up for you.
he also will put one of his barrels into one of his receivers for cheap (usually free).
for where you are now in your build and with how much you've put into it id just send it to Dlask and eat the bill.
then your gonna have to send it back to to get some more paint too..... yuk!
sorry for your troubles, nasty business.
If you haven't already try putting some heat on it. I'd do the hacksaw/slot method plus a good shot of propane torch. Use a proper screwdriver bit that fits tight to the hacksaw slot- it should come apart. It will be hard to drill out without messing up the block- can't get square on the screw head.
Sorry for your troubles- If you were closer I'd give you a hand. I'd provide it to a proper smith and they will get it apart, re-assemble and clean up the barrel gronch.
Sorry for your troubles- If you were closer I'd give you a hand. I'd provide it to a proper smith and they will get it apart, re-assemble and clean up the barrel gronch.
