Um, er - just shows you, you can't believe everything you hear. If that was true, WW1 and WW2 snipers would have had serious issues.
enfield 303 scope mount
- Thread starter entrail
- Start date
Um, er - just shows you, you can't believe everything you hear. If that was true, WW1 and WW2 snipers would have had serious issues.
He might be attempting to describe 'shot stringing'. Some Enfields were prone to it. As the barrel heats up, the point of impact rises, resulting in a group that looks like a vertical line. I think it has something to do with the two part stock and the way it contacts the barrel. I remember hearing it could be corrected by bedding the forend in such a way that you increase the pressure at the most forward point? Perhaps someone with a touch more experience in this can elaborate or correct me?
Vertical stringing of your shots is usually indicative of a BEDDING issue: the wood-to-metal FIT of things. In the SMLE rifle (or the early Number 4 series) this is usually traceable to The Damned Crack, which is responsible for more bad shooting than half of the bad barrels still existing.
The Damned Crack can come about 2 ways: either from shrinking of the Forearm wood from changes in the Climate, or from somebody removing the Butt without first removing the Fore-end, which simply breaks it out. In either case, The Damned Crack results. It is a crack in the rearward end of the Forestock, right by where the Trigger comes up to engage the Sear. The wood at that spot is very thin and may be cracked-out rather easily. Twisting the BUTT BOLT can open up this crack and likely this is today the most common cause. Back when the rifles ware in Service use, the Crack was less common and generally resulted from the wood drying out, pressing against the metal and eventually opening up. In either case, it DESTROYS your bedding job simply by loosening off the wood-to-metal fit.
You can spot The Damned Crack by removing the Forestock and looking at the rear end of it. You are looking for a thin (generally hairline) VERTICAL crack, right at the back end. THAT is the little monster.
The Damned Crack can be REPAIRED for less than 50 cents, plus an hour or so of your work. Remove the Forestock, wedge the Crack slightly open, degrease with a shot of brake-drum cleaner and allow to stand and dry. When the Crack is clean and dry, you work a bit of 2-part epoxy into the Crack (I use Brownell's Acra-Glas Gel), clamp your repair lightly with a padded C-clamp, allow to stand for the curing period, clean up the repair and reassemble the rifle. MUCH cheaper than a new stock.
About 90 percent of the time, this simple repair will cure vertical stringing in the SMLE.
I have a 1918 Lithgow SMLE here which was shooting a 14-inch group at 100, off the bags. This was an original First World War rifle which had been bashed-about but had never been shot; the BORE was NEW. Repaired the bedding, INCLUDING The Damned Crack, brought the bedding up to Bisley standards (I had the former Captain of the Canadian Team to tell me what to do)..... and the rifle, with the same ammunition, started shooting half-inch groups. I have NO complaints.
It WORKS.
The Damned Crack can come about 2 ways: either from shrinking of the Forearm wood from changes in the Climate, or from somebody removing the Butt without first removing the Fore-end, which simply breaks it out. In either case, The Damned Crack results. It is a crack in the rearward end of the Forestock, right by where the Trigger comes up to engage the Sear. The wood at that spot is very thin and may be cracked-out rather easily. Twisting the BUTT BOLT can open up this crack and likely this is today the most common cause. Back when the rifles ware in Service use, the Crack was less common and generally resulted from the wood drying out, pressing against the metal and eventually opening up. In either case, it DESTROYS your bedding job simply by loosening off the wood-to-metal fit.
You can spot The Damned Crack by removing the Forestock and looking at the rear end of it. You are looking for a thin (generally hairline) VERTICAL crack, right at the back end. THAT is the little monster.
The Damned Crack can be REPAIRED for less than 50 cents, plus an hour or so of your work. Remove the Forestock, wedge the Crack slightly open, degrease with a shot of brake-drum cleaner and allow to stand and dry. When the Crack is clean and dry, you work a bit of 2-part epoxy into the Crack (I use Brownell's Acra-Glas Gel), clamp your repair lightly with a padded C-clamp, allow to stand for the curing period, clean up the repair and reassemble the rifle. MUCH cheaper than a new stock.
About 90 percent of the time, this simple repair will cure vertical stringing in the SMLE.
I have a 1918 Lithgow SMLE here which was shooting a 14-inch group at 100, off the bags. This was an original First World War rifle which had been bashed-about but had never been shot; the BORE was NEW. Repaired the bedding, INCLUDING The Damned Crack, brought the bedding up to Bisley standards (I had the former Captain of the Canadian Team to tell me what to do)..... and the rifle, with the same ammunition, started shooting half-inch groups. I have NO complaints.
It WORKS.
Good, because I love how this rifle feels on my shoulder, very natural....I'm really looking forward to getting itset up and out...thanks
He doesn't know what he is talking about so why should you?
I have a 1917 Lithgow that also has the mag cutoff slot. Yours looks a lot like mine, and I'm still putting together all the parts to restore it to something like original. Not easy, nor cheap.
Here's mine:
I'd be interested to see under the rear handguard: mine had an electropencilled R that indicated rust in the barrel.
Here's mine:
I'd be interested to see under the rear handguard: mine had an electropencilled R that indicated rust in the barrel.
If you would like period looking equipment we have Mark 4 sniper scope sets
http://http://www.corwin-arms.com/product/lee-enfield-mark-4-sniper-scope-set
http://http://www.corwin-arms.com/product/lee-enfield-mark-4-sniper-scope-set
That outfit is great for the guy wanting to build his own Number 4 (T), but it will NOT work with a Rifle Number 1 (SMLE).
The PADS in this set install permanently (or almost so) to the FLAT left side of the Body of the Number 4. The Body of the Number 1 (SMLE) is CURVED, so this outfit will not do at all for the early rifle.
Now, if they were to come up with a scope and mount based on the 1918 Aldis or the Periscopic Prism, I might thing about it......
The S&K mount is a third the price, you get to pick your own scope (Number 32 is not everyone's dish of tea), requires NO permanent modification to the Rifle AND you can move it from rifle to rifle as you desire.
But the guy wanting to build a Number 4(T) now can get everything in one place..... and not have to fight with e-pay and (FRAUD ALERT), knowing that a part of what you pay goes to anti-gun groups.
The PADS in this set install permanently (or almost so) to the FLAT left side of the Body of the Number 4. The Body of the Number 1 (SMLE) is CURVED, so this outfit will not do at all for the early rifle.
Now, if they were to come up with a scope and mount based on the 1918 Aldis or the Periscopic Prism, I might thing about it......
The S&K mount is a third the price, you get to pick your own scope (Number 32 is not everyone's dish of tea), requires NO permanent modification to the Rifle AND you can move it from rifle to rifle as you desire.
But the guy wanting to build a Number 4(T) now can get everything in one place..... and not have to fight with e-pay and (FRAUD ALERT), knowing that a part of what you pay goes to anti-gun groups.
The comments re No1 MK3's being difficult stem primarily around the no gunsmith mounts for them, most often won't stay put on the rifle due to receiver flex. God knows I tried many ideas and types but eventually caved in and went for a drilled and tapped quick release Ajax type in the end, sorry these haven't been around for a good while, decades, too bad, they look like a ww2 german stalingrad scope mount, very cool.
If you're drilling and tapping you'll have no issues on the No1 Mk3, and the No4 and No5 rifle types will accept a no gunsmith mount very well as they mount though the existing sight rear axel and can't come off, take a browse on enfield resource or ebay for types. Look for the lowest profile you can find so that the butt stock drop doesn't put you too far off the quick view needed for hunting.
If you're drilling and tapping you'll have no issues on the No1 Mk3, and the No4 and No5 rifle types will accept a no gunsmith mount very well as they mount though the existing sight rear axel and can't come off, take a browse on enfield resource or ebay for types. Look for the lowest profile you can find so that the butt stock drop doesn't put you too far off the quick view needed for hunting.
Anyone have tips on installing the S&k mount? I have it on but the stock wont quite fit back in place, it was real hard to get off and seems to be as hard to get back on...I shaved the inner stock where the front band goes and think it clearing . How tight do these stocks go back on? I don't want to mess it up!
1) On some SMLE's, the stock bolt has a square nose on it which engages a notch at the rear of the forend. Look at the tip of the bolt---is there a square projection and is it turned a bit so it fouls the slot on the forend? If so then you have to turn it so it lines up, which will make sliding the forend back on a hell of a lot easier. (never turn the stock bolt unless the forend is off)
2) In the S&K instructions, it tells you that you have to relieve a bit of wood from down in the forend where the screw goes across the front band. A dremel tool would work best. Just enough.
Let me know how it goes, please.
2) In the S&K instructions, it tells you that you have to relieve a bit of wood from down in the forend where the screw goes across the front band. A dremel tool would work best. Just enough.
Let me know how it goes, please.
First I have seen of those. Looks nice.
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Smellie is this what you are talking about. This gun had never been apart since I have had it nor do I believe the guy before me did. I remember the the two small holes one on each side of the stock when I got it but had no idea what they were. The screw is holding everything tight and the crack doesn't appear to open when I twist the wood.
- Location
- Chilliwack BC
Ordered my S+K No1 MkIII mount today! And found some glass on the EE!Good times!
