Finally done! Repro Longbranch No4 MkI* (T) First range day today!

My supplier is sending me whole scope kit same as sold by Numrich. I will see quality and post the price if anyone would like to order one
 
Can't wait to see your progress! It's awesome having one of these, it's going to make my round count on the collectible rifles go up a lot slower. 2 trips out with it now and 120 rds down the tube. It's now my favourite rifle in the barn by far.
 
After doing it I would suggest going with the proper 4BA screws as well as getting the proper 1/4BSF tap for the big hole in the rear pad. The thread on your mount is 1/4BSF too and the threads on the repro mount screws are quite soft and easy to damage so I don't think it would turn out well if a guy tried to turn them into any other pattern.

In my list I made up I listed the supplier I used for the screws, drill bits and taps. Just don't be like me and go with HSS bits and taps. Cobalt or carbide! Also be sure to ask the fellow for raw steel screws if he has them. If he does please let me know because I want to switch mine out so I can blue them. Ha ha.
 
Some updated photo eyecandy for you all. 120 rds down the tube now and two range trips including one very wet day (rained most of an inch in the last hour last weekend). Everything is holding up perfectly and I have a lead on a load that it loves although it seems to shoot everything from 180 flat based bullets to 174gr round nose to 174gr boat tails very well. I had numerous groups with holes touching last trip out, now its up to the shooter to get them to do that all the time!

Another couple points, make sure you read up on how to zero your model of scope! It saves time and ammo, especially with these as they aren't easy to zero and you can damage the scope if you do it improperly. MkI scope set your range dial to 100 yards and zero it at that range. You need to loosen the lead screw for each turret before attempting to adjust the grat. Then lightly snug the lead again when you have moved it. Make tiny adjustments or you will get very frustrated very quickly!

If your scope has a sun shade take it off. They will move and scar the finish on your new scope on the very first range trip.

Here's the latest photos:











Does anyone have any tips on how to darken a sling? I have mine softened up to where it is use able now but the color is still pretty light for my liking.
 
Try some saddle black...it's used for darkening horse harness. But test it first...depending on the leather, it may be too dark for you.

Seems to shoot pretty well. You should be pleased.
 
I very pleased with it. Looking forward to many years of fun with it.

To any of you guys looking to do one of these, Wheaty has one of his repro scopes on the ee. I wouldn't go any other way to build one of these than with one of his scopes.
 
Also forgot to add, a member on another site suggested that the fasteners from BritishFasteners that I used for the project are cad(mium?) plated, not stainless. Indeed they are. A bit of time in a hydrogen peroxide/vinegar mix will eat the playing off clean to bare steel and they can then be blued like any other part.
 
Does anyone have any tips on how to darken a sling? I have mine softened up to where it is use able now but the color is still pretty light for my liking.


Soak it in Schaftol or use a mixture of KIWI black shoe polish and Balistol or something similar.

Both solutions will darken the leather as much as you would like. Not only that, the leather will become mildew resistant.

Balistol is commonly used as industrial sewing machine lube and can be found in most sewing machine supply stores.
 
Quick update tip: I went almost a year without machining out the bottom of the back sight to allow the bolt to be removed for cleaning without taking the scope off. If I did one again I would add it to the list of steps when modifying the rear sight. It needs to be done. After reading into it a bit more, looks like the theory on the scope holding zero even after being removed and re installed was not that good in actual practice. Even if it doesn't move it's still a trust thing, did it stay? Even then, the constant on off has to wear on things eventually.

Also on the pad screws, the ones I used are coated. The coating will come off if they are submerged in muriatic acid for a bit. Then they can be blued. I tried to remove my screws to do this recently and let me tell you, the bearing retaining compound I used is second to welding the screws in. After almost 1,000 rounds they would have to have the compound melted out so I left them be.
 
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