Finn Gun

D

david doyle

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Thought someone might be able to tell me what I have here? reciever and bolt force match, nothing else matches. I plan on selling this to help fund a target swede purchase so if any one could lend insight to a proper value that would be appreciated.

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Thanks
 
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Any early tikka is worth some pretty good coin as far as mosins go, but not with a sanded stock. I think you would have a hard time selling that for $150 in this market. I could be wrong though.
 
David,

You have a very early Finn barreled M1891 made by Tikka. Basically just a new barrel and it was good to go!

Wood looks great (although shined up somewhat) and blue looks real good. I assume barrel is VG or so?

As to value, with Mosins, its in the eye of the beholder. I would try that guy for sale at $200 just as a WAG....no buys, lower until it sells!
 
Thanks guys, bore is vg as well. So you are pretty sure someone sanded it?
I just assumed it was like that from a rebuild but don't know....

Hard to believe you could buy a rifle this nice for 150 bucks! I think I am gonna keep it and see how well it shoots. Bet it drives tacks.
 
The Finns weren't crazy about doing that shiney thing to their stocks. Finns tend to be pretty utilitarian folks, so I would say that stock was given some love by an enthusiastic milsurp owner after the rifle's discharge from the Army.
 
See that dark area in the finger grooves? Thats what the whole stock used to look like. The original finish is very hard to duplicate so to get it to look like it is supposed to you have to get another stock. Mosins have become very hard to sell as of late, regardless of condition. I recently purchased a near mint vkt m91 & a finn capture 91/30 for $275 shipped. I traded that m91 at epps if anybody is looking for a good one, they have it priced at $189.
 
Finns tend to be pretty utilitarian folks, so I would say that stock was given some love by an enthusiastic milsurp owner after the rifle's discharge from the Army.
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Bubbba why do you always forsake me...................?
 
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Nice early Tikka with AV1 repair depot markings, Unfortunately the stock has been completly ruined by our friend Bubba!
 
JP just looked at what you have in stock in these rifles. It is hard to believe that at these prices people don't buy the VG examples of these guns as fast as they show up. Gotta be one of the best milsurp deals out there in terms of historical interest and highest quality rifles.
 
david doyle said:
JP just looked at what you have in stock in these rifles. It is hard to believe that at these prices people don't buy the VG examples of these guns as fast as they show up. Gotta be one of the best milsurp deals out there in terms of historical interest and highest quality rifles.
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You mean people don't buy 'em up???
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That stock looks like an original Russian one piece. The shiny "stuff" looks like shellack but I think the original one should be a lot redder in hue.
Check closely at the finger grooves: it looks like that "original color" is chipping, Maybe contrasting paint put there by Bubba?
Are there still any stamps in the wood, especially on the buttstock's sides?
Can you post a sharp close-up of the underside of the action's rear tang?
Be careful with the barrel bands: they loosen when you tighten the screw. DON'T overtighten them, screwing or unscrewing, because you can twist the heads off these screws quite easily and those early model bands are quite scarce nowadays.
PP.
 
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In the groove looks like a darker shellac.

No trace of stock marks. I'd guess bubba went to 320 grit.

I will take it apart and get that pic posted. Thanks for the hint on dissasembley.
 
Blondie...

If you want to restore it to at least a believable look, you could strip that "swedish blonde" shellack off and replace it with a darker reddish hued one.
You may find some darker shellack tints but Lee Valley only keeps the orange variety.
Try coloring the shellack with an alcohol-soluble dye or wipe an alcohol-soluble reddish dye to the wood before applying the shellack. This will give a truer color. Test on a separate piece of wood.
Be careful of any remaining stamps in the stripping process.
Good luck!
PP.:)
 
For clarity, a Finnish M91 is usually NOT finished in shellac. The correct finish is a mix of linseed oil and pine tar. Pine tar is available from a few e-bay sellers.
 
Claven2 said:
For clarity, a Finnish M91 is usually NOT finished in shellac. The correct finish is a mix of linseed oil and pine tar. Pine tar is available from a few e-bay sellers.
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You can buy pine tar at any Tack shop, it's used to dress hooves. You can get it for under $10 for a tin.

Remember it's very thick and needs to be heated in boiling water (off the stove, boiling water poured into a bowl then the tin of pine tar dropped in to warm) Keep the rags & kerosene handy to clean up.

Regards

Pete
 
Caribou

There's also some easier to apply solubilized pine tar; you can get it from sport shops that specialize in cross-country skiing. It's used to season the soles of old-style wooden skis.
I guess mixing it with flax seed oil would fill the bill.
In some places they also added beeswax or mixed pine tar with reindeer tallow.
Going caribou hunting, anyone? Time to keep some of that fat for Lapland Mosins.
PP.:)
 
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pine tar also works really well for slathering over the top of the caulking on your knarr, should you happen to have one. (I've spent the last 5 months back in the 10th Century, haven't been on here.)

One thing I don't understand is why more people aren't handloading for the MN rifle: some of those ugly things can REALLY shoot. Friend of mine has been playing with one for almost 3 years now. Every time we go out, he fires 3 rounds at the same 5x8-inch card. So far, they've all been on the card. That's at 345 yards by the laser. Not bad for an ugly old gun. Lotta new ones won't do any better.
 
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