First Attempt At Stock Checkering

Moose Masher

CGN Regular
Rating - 100%
49   0   0
A buddy gave me a set of Dembart checkering tools that he inherited from his grandfather so I figured what the h#$% and gave it a try.

The gun is an old break, single shot .410 that is too loose to shoot. I use it as a guiney pig to test things on before working on my good guns.

The only tool missing from the set is the veiner, used to lay out the patterns and clean up the edges after the checkering is done.

Since I don't have the veiner, I used a Dremel to lay out the pattern.

ls.jpg

rs.jpg

rs2.jpg


The work is definately bush-league, there are a lot of over runs and a couple of double lines. Considering it was my first attempt though, I'm pretty happy with the results. If I can get my hands on a veiner tool that would really help.
 
Last edited:
Fresh checkering always looks worse until you put some finish on it, just rub on some oil type finish, I think you will like what you see, good job!!
 
Hey Moose Masher, that's not too bad at all. A couple small things, but as Ben H. said, it will look better once oiled. It looks like you managed to carry the lines fairly straight around the prince of wales grip. Keep it up, we need more skilled people in this community.

Cheers.
 
Hey Fassteel don't be sending him to Lee Valley Tools or he will be become a hopeless tool junky like I did. Great place to find those oddball tools.
 
Try outlining your penciled on pattern with pin striping masking tape (green, 1/4" from a body shop supply). Cut your checkering pattern to the tape and then cut your borders last, not first (admittedly hard to do with a central oak leaf). But you can tape that area with wider masking tape and then trace the oak leaf on the tape and carefully cut around the edges of the leaf through the tape with an Exacto-knife with only enough pressure to cut through the tape. You can use a single line cutter or a bent nose checkering file to cut the borders following your tape. Doing the borders last will eliminate most over runs unless you have a serious slip. Your diamonds are a little square and would look better more elongated. None of this is meant as a criticism but perhaps to help. Your first effort shows you have quite a bit of natural ability and only practice is lacking. Keep at it.

Lee Valley sells a lovely little veiner. They are cranky to use and difficult to get sharp enough unless you use strop and abrasive compound (also available from Lee). Perhaps the hardest tool to use of all in the process is the veiner but quite essential for tight quarters and they make completing checkering lines right to the border a lot easier.
 
Thanks everyone for the kind words. I wasn't too sure if I should even share my little project with everyone.

Stocker, thanks for the tips. Everything I know about checkering, I learned from the 2 page booklet that was thankfully with the kit, and your post. Any advice is welcome.
I have a Parker Hale that needs a new stock. Boyd's has an unfinished walnut JRS for $69. I think I'll get one and give it a go. Maybe I could drop you a PM a time or two for some advice?
 
Good job!!!! When I first started checkering I had no one to turn to for help. Great thing about this forum is all the advice to be had. One tip I got early on was to use Gun Line tools as well as the dembart. Gun Line 60 degree cutters to start, cut deep with them and finish with your 90 degree cutters , either DemBart or Gun Line. Using the 60 degree first is much easier to stay straight and cuts faster. Brownells will send them for a fair price. Good luck and keep it up.
Brian
 
MooseyM: I'd be happy to help when I can. If you haven't seen one try to get a copy of Monte Kennedy's book "Checkering and Carving of Gun Stocks". You might even find one in a library. Lots of very good info on patterns, layout, tools you can make, technique.
Get some plastic transparencies from a stationary store and make and cut out some pattern tools. Diamonds, straight edges etc. Layout diamonds are a big help and are usually in the neighborhood of 3.5 to 4 times as long as they are wide. Also make 1/2 diamonds (triangles actually) keeping all the angles consistent so you can use any of them when laying out a pattern. Also a set of French curves are very useful when laying out curves on paper patterns. A good protractor and compass are basic to pattern layout. Graph paper is ideal for making patterns. I have never been very happy with most commercial tools and make most of my own from 3/16 drill rod.
 
Any chance we can see the other side?

The other side is shown in the top photo. I decided not to go any further on the test gun. It took a long time to do just that small bit. I figured that if I could do a similar job again, that I would just go for it on a new stock. The worst that can happen is that I mess it up and end up with a really slim grip, or I'm out some cash. I think it's worth a gamble since I have a gun that needs a new stock anyway.

Stocker and Fastex, keep it coming, this is good info. Much appreciated. I'm looking forward to getting some new tools and trying some new projects. Now just where to find the time.
 
That is certainly excellent work for a first try. I have seen some factory rifles not done as well. The oak leaf in the pattern didn't make it any easier, that's for sure!

Like others have requested, please post a couple of pictures after the checkering is oiled.

Ted
 
Back
Top Bottom