First long(actually middle) range rifle?

[sonichanxiao]

sorry, I was referring to Clocked92's post.

Lots of good advice here though. Don't cheap out on a bipod, realistically the BRMS Harris is the best all around and is light and quick. Get a chronograph, because you will need to know your velocities at different temperatures once you find a load or ammo you like. Get a used kestrel that can do humidity, temp, and barometric pressure (can get em used for relatively cheap), and a rangefinder. Get data books as well to log your range trips, and data for different conditions. My opinion would be not to waste money on training courses until you are further along. Watch the Sniper 101 series on youtube and most of all just get out there shooting!

No problem.

Not sure how compatible with all the accessories, wouldn't get the top ones for the entry level long distance rifle for now except the scope which I know can be used pretty much everywhere.

Will do more googling and research before take to a range or crown land.

 

[sonichanxiao]

By the way, for the barrel length, should I pick a longer one like 24inch or 20inch is OK if storage case is not an issue?

 

[TRDYamahauler]

When I was first looking into a precision rig I had thought .308 for the ability to use cheap surplus ammo but came to the conclusion it’s a waste of time and false economy. The trouble is if you are shooting 1.5 or 2 MOA ammo (or worse?) you end up not being able to learn much because you won’t be able to tell if a poor group or flier or miss was because of lousy ammo or your mistake.

That said I’m not sure what the cheap ammo shoots, maybe it’s better than that. I shot a 0.6xx” 5 shot group with and IBI barrel and the cheapest ammo I could find (federal non-typical whitetail 6.5 Creedmoor) so who knows. If you get into it half serious you will probably want to reload tho and then 6.5 and .308 are probably the same price per round. I get the argument too that poorer ballistics requires more from the shooter and that could be good for learning but if you aren’t making hits things gets real frustrating real fast too. Something else to consider

 

[bigdyno]

if you are going to do any competitions, check class requirements. I shoot a stock .308 because it allows me to shoot a specific class. If you shoot 6.5 you are getting into the deep end of the pool with big money guns. That may not be how you want to start.

 

[kthomas]

By the way, for the barrel length, should I pick a longer one like 24inch or 20inch is OK if storage case is not an issue?

20 inch is fine, especially if you are shooting 500m and in. I have shot my 22" .308 with factory loaded FGMM 168's out to 1,100-1,200 yards on numerous occasions very successfully.

 

[Clocked92]

I'm not bashing the 308. I just thought if you go with the 6.5 now, you could grow with it and upgrade it down the road if you choose to, rather than buying a whole new rifle once you feel you want to move on from the 308.

 

[TheNatural21]

You right, maybe I start with .308 to get all the knowledge then move up to other caliber which is not that picky.

Plus 6.5 Creedmoor is kind of pricey than .308 for sure, I just did a quick search, no bulk ammo sale, mainly in small package at average between $1.5-2 each. .308 is about $1 or even less.

I shoot a lot of 308. In my bolt action (savage 110) some of the bulk and surplus shoots 1-1.5MOA while my hand loads are half that. I still shoot a lot of surplus at $0.77/round, but it's not really suitable for long distance or anything that requires a lot of precision. It's nice to have the low cost option sometimes, but your ammo cost difference between 308 and 6.5 will be closer than you think. I would still recommend 308 for other reasons though.

 

[driller212]

When I was first looking into a precision rig I had thought .308 for the ability to use cheap surplus ammo but came to the conclusion it’s a waste of time and false economy. The trouble is if you are shooting 1.5 or 2 MOA ammo (or worse?) you end up not being able to learn much because you won’t be able to tell if a poor group or flier or miss was because of lousy ammo or your mistake.

That said I’m not sure what the cheap ammo shoots, maybe it’s better than that. I shot a 0.6xx” 5 shot group with and IBI barrel and the cheapest ammo I could find (federal non-typical whitetail 6.5 Creedmoor) so who knows. If you get into it half serious you will probably want to reload tho and then 6.5 and .308 are probably the same price per round. I get the argument too that poorer ballistics requires more from the shooter and that could be good for learning but if you aren’t making hits things gets real frustrating real fast too. Something else to consider

If he reloads, I reload premium quality match ammo for 67c/rd so economy is definitely a factor still.

I'm not bashing the 308. I just thought if you go with the 6.5 now, you could grow with it and upgrade it down the road if you choose to, rather than buying a whole new rifle once you feel you want to move on from the 308.

You can rebarrel a 308 to 6.5CM can you not? Learn with .308 and if you get all hipstery then rebarrel to 6.5cm

 

[sonichanxiao]

sorry, I was referring to Clocked92's post.

Lots of good advice here though. Don't cheap out on a bipod, realistically the BRMS Harris is the best all around and is light and quick. Get a chronograph, because you will need to know your velocities at different temperatures once you find a load or ammo you like. Get a used kestrel that can do humidity, temp, and barometric pressure (can get em used for relatively cheap), and a rangefinder. Get data books as well to log your range trips, and data for different conditions. My opinion would be not to waste money on training courses until you are further along. Watch the Sniper 101 series on youtube and most of all just get out there shooting!

By the way, do you think I should pick another bipod, or just get the Black Label bipod integrated version Tikka T3X TAC A1, cost is about $200 cheaper than buying separately.

 

[driller212]

By the way, do you think I should pick another bipod, or just get the Black Label bipod integrated version Tikka T3X TAC A1, cost is about $200 cheaper than buying separately.

If you are set on a tikka, you can't go wrong, but you could drop a tikka CTR or varmint in a nice chassis with accessories for less than the TAC A1. Just one guys opinion. The cool factor is pretty high though.

 

[sonichanxiao]

When I was first looking into a precision rig I had thought .308 for the ability to use cheap surplus ammo but came to the conclusion it’s a waste of time and false economy. The trouble is if you are shooting 1.5 or 2 MOA ammo (or worse?) you end up not being able to learn much because you won’t be able to tell if a poor group or flier or miss was because of lousy ammo or your mistake.

That said I’m not sure what the cheap ammo shoots, maybe it’s better than that. I shot a 0.6xx” 5 shot group with and IBI barrel and the cheapest ammo I could find (federal non-typical whitetail 6.5 Creedmoor) so who knows. If you get into it half serious you will probably want to reload tho and then 6.5 and .308 are probably the same price per round. I get the argument too that poorer ballistics requires more from the shooter and that could be good for learning but if you aren’t making hits things gets real frustrating real fast too. Something else to consider

Well, I guess I would start with something cheaper but still not those low end 308 ammo, after 1-200 rounds, I am sure I will get better understanding on a lot of details, which I could move to high end ammo.

Not going to reload unless I want to go pro for the next rifle upgrade. So from the shop, 6.5 creedmoor looks more expensive to me for now, not sure if it is because they are high end ones. .308 is more common, probably that's how the price is cheaper.

 

[sonichanxiao]

if you are going to do any competitions, check class requirements. I shoot a stock .308 because it allows me to shoot a specific class. If you shoot 6.5 you are getting into the deep end of the pool with big money guns. That may not be how you want to start.

Not going to any competition for a while, so would just use it as a starter rifle and get all the experience for the next upgrade. Probably to 338 LM, not sure yet.

 

[sonichanxiao]

I'm not bashing the 308. I just thought if you go with the 6.5 now, you could grow with it and upgrade it down the road if you choose to, rather than buying a whole new rifle once you feel you want to move on from the 308.

Well, I don't really have a preference. From ammo side, .308 seems more easier to find and about 30% cheaper from the shop.

Wait, haven't 6.5 done a some job for you (less to worry) than .308 when shoot outside and long distance?

 

[manitou210]

Your thoughts on Tikka and other guns in 6.5 creed or any 6.5 is not best choice with todays high BC bullets in 308 you would be giving up over 100 BC
Just buy a good action used 500 To $900 send gun to a good smith Denis, Ralph Colgan, Ian Robertson etc
Get action Trued if not, get a 30" 30cal 1/10 twist maybe A 9.5 AND GET SMITH TO THROAT FOR LONG 200 GR BULLETS.
Pick up a used stock and have it installed and bedded and a Jewel trigger or others available
should be able to stay under 2400.00 way better way to go

 

[sonichanxiao]

Your thoughts on Tikka and other guns in 6.5 creed or any 6.5 is not best choice with todays high BC bullets in 308 you would be giving up over 100 BC
Just buy a good action used 500 To $900 send gun to a good smith Denis, Ralph Colgan, Ian Robertson etc
Get action Trued if not, get a 30" 30cal 1/10 twist maybe A 9.5 AND GET SMITH TO THROAT FOR LONG 200 GR BULLETS.
Pick up a used stock and have it installed and bedded and a Jewel trigger or others available
should be able to stay under 2400.00 way better way to go

Thanks.

So you are saying the 6.5 creedmoor is way more accurate or less hassle than the 308 win right?

I probably would buy an existing rifle for now, in the future I would consider your option to customize it and save more.

 

[IvoB]

Go 6.5creed and call it a day - in the end you will be ahead of the game

 

[Colquhoun]

If it’s your first rifle I would go for the .308 personally....the 6.5’s are better ballistically but only once you stretch them out.
As for accuracy they are a dead heat.....so if your shooting to 500 I would look at other criteria such as much improved barrel life from the .308 and many great off the rack rifle choices along with excellent ammo availability if your not reloading yet.
If you plan on getting something higher end or custom later on get behind everything you can to know what you want then see what your needs are for most appropriate caliber choice....buy a decent scope that you can move along if you wish, but again you might find a reticle that best suits future needs as you go....in other words you’ll want a new scope too come new rifle time!

 

[driller212]

If it’s your first rifle I would go for the .308 personally....the 6.5’s are better ballistically but only once you stretch them out.
As for accuracy they are a dead heat.....so if your shooting to 500 I would look at other criteria such as much improved barrel life from the .308 and many great off the rack rifle choices along with excellent ammo availability if your not reloading yet.
If you plan on getting something higher end or custom later on get behind everything you can to know what you want then see what your needs are for most appropriate caliber choice....buy a decent scope that you can move along if you wish, but again you might find a reticle that best suits future needs as you go....in other words you’ll want a new scope too come new rifle time!

^^^^ what he said.

 

[coleman1495]

The OP said he wanted the rifle for 2-500 yards. That generally requires good quality ammunition.

I don’t think 6.5 is more expensive than 308 if you are buying decent ammo. The cheap 308 usually shoots like crap IME.

 

[sonichanxiao]

The OP said he wanted the rifle for 2-500 yards. That generally requires good quality ammunition.

I don’t think 6.5 is more expensive than 308 if you are buying decent ammo. The cheap 308 usually shoots like crap IME.

I guess for the first 100 rounds, I would be stay inside the range to get familiar with the rifle and the way to shoot it.

Then I will move to outdoor or crown land to see how it goes, then improve/practice from there. Take a while and a long drive to find a place you can shoot outdoor in GTA area.

The 308 ammo I checked probably made for the semi auto rifles which is not suitable for long distance shooting, that's why it is much cheaper. If say both would be around $3-4 each, I may just go for the 6.5 caliber.