First time shotgun owner...question about sticky action

Wipe any excess oil off of the action bars, inside the receiver, magazine tube, locking lug & barrel tenon, etc. It will still have oil on it, don't worry. Try it again in the cold and report back.

I use synthetic lubes now almost exclusively. BreakFree CLP, G96, etc. A little goes a long way, and they work great in the cold.
 
Don't pay any attention to the BS comments. You are on CGN after all. Don't use motor oil, IMHO its too thick. Any gun oil or (horrors) WD40 will work to get it loosened up. Sit down and oil it and cycle it over and over again. Its not that complicated an action so it shouldn't take much. I helped a guy resurrect a Win 97 this summer that was so dry the action would barely open. After many applications of gun oil and many cycles it smoothed right out.
 
cranswick said:
well it's my first pump action...my experience was stated in the first post...why the wise-ass comments? nothing you've said has been very helpful...I was just wondering if it was the specifically the oil causing the issue...do you have any recommendations other than motor oil?
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My point is, regardless of what it might say on the bottle, Hoppes #9 is useless as a lubricating oil. I like FP-10, or G-96 Synthetic CLP gun oil, or G-96 Liquid Gun Grease myself, but a very light synthetic motor oil like 0w-30 will work if you can't find a better alternative locally. I keep WD-40 away from firearms, because it also is a poor lubricant, and it just attracts dust and gums things up.
 
stubblejumper said:
My point is, regardless of what it might say on the bottle, Hoppes #9 is useless as a lubricating oil. I like FP-10, or G-96 Synthetic CLP gun oil, or G-96 Liquid Gun Grease myself, but a very light synthetic motor oil like 0w-30 will work if you can't find a better alternative locally. I keep WD-40 away from firearms, because it also is a poor lubricant, and it just attracts dust and gums things up.
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I don't want to sound like a ####, and re-reading my reply made me realize my point could have been made with less, or other words...but thank you for a straight forward response...cheers...I wrote all your guys' suggestions down in order of most recommended, and I'm going to try an actual gun/hunting store, rather than my local CT.
 
Try a full tear down like it was stated before. I had some issues with my mossberg that were somewhat similar. My gun was cold but my shot shells were warm ( sitting under the seat in the truck where the heat vent is) and I noticed it right away that I had issues.
 
I own 2 Maverick 88s and shoot in sub zero temperatures.
The OP issue seems made up.
Honey like consistence? These shotguns don't come in a cosmoline block!
And yes, as Rangerz521 pointed out, a box of slugs is a lot.
 
Hmmm.... I don't know this particular model of shotgun. Does it have an elastomeric sleeve (o ring) within the pump that slides over the mag tube? If it does, I'd have a look at that. Additionally, when a novice states that they do a full strip and teardown, there is a very good chance that something will go amuck. Unfortunately, in this case, there is no benchmark as to how the gun was performing before the teardown. When you get old and lazy, like myself, you don't fix something unless its broken.
 
legi0n said:
I own 2 Maverick 88s and shoot in sub zero temperatures.
The OP issue seems made up.
Honey like consistence? These shotguns don't come in a cosmoline block!
And yes, as Rangerz521 pointed out, a box of slugs is a lot.
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Are you calling me a liar? why would anyone make something like this up? I'm not saying it was really hard to cycle the action, I'm saying there was considerably more resistance, it cycled fine, it was just harder than normal...Even my buddy that I was at the range with felt it, and like I said it didn't matter if I was chambering a shell or if it was empty, the action was "dragging". I don't know if why shooting a box of slugs is such a big deal. I just did an ammo count, and I shot 20 of the Winchester slugs...I thought the big grey box was 25 for some reason, but it's only 15, and now that I think of it, I only shot 4 groups. I shot that, plus a normal 5 pack (2 groups at 25, and 2 at 50), and then I shot the sluggers at plates just to see how they kick...I don't know what difference it makes anyways, the issue it not ammo related, cause again, it was doing it empty.

cosmic said:
Hmmm.... I don't know this particular model of shotgun. Does it have an elastomeric sleeve (o ring) within the pump that slides over the mag tube? If it does, I'd have a look at that. Additionally, when a novice states that they do a full strip and teardown, there is a very good chance that something will go amuck. Unfortunately, in this case, there is no benchmark as to how the gun was performing before the teardown. When you get old and lazy, like myself, you don't fix something unless its broken.
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I don't think so...the fore end is pretty loose on the mag tube...my friend's Mossberg 500 is the same way...it's definitely not an assembly problem, it functioned flawlessly before and after teardown, I have 12g snap caps, and they cycled fine, and even as of 10 minutes ago, the action is smooth as ever, and I haven't cleaned since I shot it.

Codygp said:
Try a full tear down like it was stated before. I had some issues with my mossberg that were somewhat similar. My gun was cold but my shot shells were warm ( sitting under the seat in the truck where the heat vent is) and I noticed it right away that I had issues.
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Ammo was in the boxes, inside a .30 cal can next to me the whole time I was at the range...
 
legi0n said:
I own 2 Maverick 88s and shoot in sub zero temperatures.
The OP issue seems made up.
Honey like consistence? These shotguns don't come in a cosmoline block!
And yes, as Rangerz521 pointed out, a box of slugs is a lot.
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I don't think I'd say the OP is making it up. It might be just a minor lubricating issue, hard to say without having the gun in hand. I will say though that I had a Mossberg 500 years ago that was nothing but problems from day one. I mentioned that on here a couple of years back during a discussion on said model and I almost got crucified. Seems like some people could not fathom that a low priced Mossberg could have any problems. All guns from cheap to the most expensive can and do have problems.
 
cosmic said:
When you get old and lazy, like myself, you don't fix something unless its broken.
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Or in my case I fix it till it is broken ;)
cranswick have you guys tried looking at the U toob site and see if there something to be gleaned to assist in your buddies troubles?
Just tossing that out there, along with find some g-96 or RemOil or Froglube or Ballistoil and hopefully you guys will be out busting clays or what ever else you guys use for targets.
Rob
 
Finally made it back out to the range, so i'll post a little update...

I disassembled the shotgun, sprayed all the parts down with brake cleaner, let it dry, then sprayed it down with G96, let it sit, and wiped 'er down as per the usage instructions, and I'm happy to report that I fired it in colder conditions than reported when I first posted, and the action was silky smooth (or as smooth as it should, being a sub-$300 shotgun). I ran a few rifled slugs down the cylinder bore, I shot 5 sabots down my new rifled barrel, and then switched back to a smooth bore, and fired, some steel shot, and target loads, and she functioned flawlessly...even with the ####ty Winchester white box super targets that won't cycle in my buddy's 870.

so, yeah...don't use Hoppes 9 to lube your pump shotty.
 
i had the same problem with my shot gun at first(benellie supernova) it just needed a breaking in and different lube...but the last time i was out it was -10 C and after 50 rds it all started to stick again, so I'm thinking it was a lack of oil...we'll see what happens next time
 
I was going to suggest you use brake rotor cleaner but you beat me to it . there was probley grease in the action in spots you could'nt see and you cleaned it out . if I was you I would get a book on how to take the bolt apart and clean it out and very lightly lub it . and make sure the trigger mec is clean of all grease also . I would'nt take apart the trigger mec just blast it out and just a little oil or it will freeze up . and collect unburn't powder.

you could also carefully polish the bolt after you take it apart. that will smooth things up somewhat . good luck .
 
Woody-to said:
But it says lubricating oil right on the bottle... :confused:
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that's what I thought....

cement head said:
I was going to suggest you use brake rotor cleaner but you beat me to it . there was probley grease in the action in spots you could'nt see and you cleaned it out . if I was you I would get a book on how to take the bolt apart and clean it out and very lightly lub it . and make sure the trigger mec is clean of all grease also . I would'nt take apart the trigger mec just blast it out and just a little oil or it will freeze up . and collect unburn't powder.

you could also carefully polish the bolt after you take it apart. that will smooth things up somewhat . good luck .
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I'm not really comfortable taking the bolt apart...it was swimming in G96, so hopefully it all got in there...
 
so, yeah...don't use Hoppes 9 to lube your pump shotty.
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The one thing I can tell you is that pumps shouldn't need any lubrication. Just spray with something like G96 when cleaning, wipe off and your done.
Just from my experience, and I have more rounds through pump guns than most.
 
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