For those of you with CZ SP01 Shadows....

You can (should) at least dry clean the gun every 500rds with an old toothbrush.
Oil it lightly after.

I personally ran my Shadow 2500rds without cleaning, but oiled it every 500rds a tiny bit. It ran great.
 
CeeZer said:
You can (should) at least dry clean the gun every 500rds with an old toothbrush.
Oil it lightly after.

I personally ran my Shadow 2500rds without cleaning, but oiled it every 500rds a tiny bit. It ran great.
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I tried dry cleaning my Shadow. But I stopped because I got too many funny looks and everyone pointed at me in the mall when I walked around with my gun hooked to a clothes hanger with the big bag over it.... :D
 
From a post up a few

Slavex said:
what's this cleaning we are speaking of?? man if I cleaned my gun every 300-500 rounds I'd be cleaning it twice at the range at least. Even my match gun goes to at least 1000-1500 before it gets cleaned, lubed a couple times in there though. My practice gun, I lube it maybe once or twice a month then clean it when it starts to feel sticky. which is usually around 4000 rounds at least. Depending on the month that could be a week though.
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silverfoxdj said:
Sounds good and how often do you clean ?
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hahhaahaha, oh you're funny guy. Seriously when I hit the range for an extended session with Timeh or Mike, I'll shoot 800-1000 rounds in 5 or six hours, only having lubed the gun on some previous visit, or maybe, maybe, at the start of the session. When I clean my gun the carbon and unburned powder is so thick I have to use tools to break it out of the gun. Then scrub with Brake Clean or Carb Cleaner, and a brass brush. Then some WD40 to "wet" the frame and slide and remove the dry cleaner, then wipe down and lube as required. The barrel gets a boresnake about as often as lubing, and when I do clean the gun, I sometimes use Wipeout and the CR10. But that's like every 3rd or 4th cleaning. so anywhere from 8,000-12000 rounds. Or if I notice my accuracy dropping off.
My CZ Canadian Edition is still as tight and well fitted today as it was when I got it last year. I think leaving the gunk in there protects it. At least that's what I tell people.

CeeZer said:
You can (should) at least dry clean the gun every 500rds with an old toothbrush.
Oil it lightly after.

I personally ran my Shadow 2500rds without cleaning, but oiled it every 500rds a tiny bit. It ran great.
Click to expand...
 
That's a lot of rounds Slavex, I think my Shadow will last forever. I assume you have went through a few different pistols, round count on the one with the most through it?
 
Mine was purchased for ipsc, but haven't used it for that just practice for ipsc sort of speak. Every 150 I know I'm over cleaning it but it's a labour of love. They get dirty Er then glocks and are harder to clean then a glock. But the spaces within them are large. I find the mag drop and trigger area get junky more so then I like. The hammer sear group area Is somewhat tight. I ponder when I wipe that area if the junk is coming off or I'm wiping it into the action. It's likely just my OCD whispering to me.
 
Basically I have been field stripping and giving it a once over with cleaner and oil every time I used it which was about 200 rounds or so once a week. Then I took a 2 day class that was a little more combat oriented and it was pretty much shooting all day for 2 days straight and I didn't clean it at lunchtime or before I took it to day 2.

By the end of day 2 I was having a ton of problems. I had one issue after 400, by just below 600 rounds I had 4 more. I had one issue where we were using dummy rounds to clear malfunctions, and my extractor tore the case off the bullet, leaving the bullet stuck in the chamber and the case was jammed in there so tight I couldn't get the slide back without giving it like it owed me money. That's not the guns fault, but I wonder if it had anything to do with it.

I've been told that CZ doesn't recommend using a reduced mainspring till after break in, which I have had a reduced mainspring since day 1, and that could be the issue.

I've been shooting factory ammo, a box of all kinds of things but have settled on Sellier & Bellot. I bought a case of 124gr and 115grs and don't notice anything different between them.

I also used a Sunshine cloth which is a type or polishing cloth on the feed ramp and made that thing look beautiful. Lets see how that goes I guess.

Thanks for the feedback all.
 
Courses are where a gun will break, if it's going to break (I'm not sure why, I think they know they're at a course and get hissy) - on a 2 day course any gun that isn't plastic should be cleaned (field stripped, hosed with G96, rubbed down and the bore run through) after Day1.
 
OK, the "mainspring" is the one that powers up the hammer. Swapping it out early won't in any way affect the slide cycling. At most it would result in a few light strikes that don't set off the rounds. At least until the hammer burnishes into the frame and moves with more snap to it. But even that is a stretch.

Are you sure you don't mean the recoil spring? If so the ONLY reason to switch to a lighter recoil spring is if you're using reloads that are down to some lower power factor or if the stock spring is resulting in the empties barely dribbling out over the back of your hand when ejected. Basically the recoil spring MUST be matched to the ammo. You don't just switch it out for no good reason. And as I found out the regular factory spring is a pretty darn good match for regular factory ammo once the gun has a couple of hundred rounds through it.
 
BCRider said:
Are you sure you don't mean the recoil spring?
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No, this is just something I was told at a store and I'm too new to know if it's right. Part of what I am trying to do is educate myself on all the components, slang, nomenclature etc that I need to know. He may have said recoil spring and I am repeating it wrong.
 
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