G19 Light Primer Strikes

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This is my first Glock. I am experiencing occasional light primer strikes on my Gen 4 G19 MOS. I have heard you can over lubricate Glocks, so I haven't drenched it in oil but it isn't exactly dry either. I clean and oil after every range trip (approx 150rnds each trip) and a dot of oil only where the Glock specifications say to oil. So I don't think it's over lubricated... but like I said, I'm new to Glocks. It's definitely not due to limp-wristing. The gun now has about 500 rounds through it. The gun was brand new from a vendor in 2017, sat unfired until recently. It has a SilencerCo threaded barrel and a Shield RMS red dot sight mounted on it.

It happens occasionally with CCI Blazer Brass 124gr FMJ (1/40 rounds fail to fire) and it happens even less with American Eagle 124gr FMJ (1/60 rounds). It happened the most with Speer Gold Dot 115gr JHP (1/5 rounds fail to fire) and Federal Premium Personal Defense 124gr JHP (1/10 rounds failed to fire). I have a really low sample size on these last two brands though, I've only shot one box of each. I've mostly shot CCI Blazer Brass & American Eagle. Since it happens with all ammo, to a varying degree, I don't believe it's ammo related.

I have 6 mags for it, 3x pinned 15rnd as well as 3x 10rnd all factory Glock mags. I haven't noticed it happening in one particular mag, but I haven't marked them... could it be mag related? Red dot/spring related? Aftermarket barrel related?

Here is a comparison of the strikes on the primer of a round that fired vs a round that failed to fire. The rounds that fail to fire are always struck off center and very shallow. All the rounds fire if chambered and struck a second time. Ideas? Things to check?

Thanks!

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Light primer strikes aren’t caused by poor grip or anything of the sort. It’s strictly internal.
I’m presuming you’re confirming that the slide is fully in battery when you have a light stroke?

The first recommendation id make is to strip the slide and remove the striker assembly. Give everything a good wipe down and make sure there’s no lubrication from factory on the striker or inside.

What I find unusual in your photo is the case that achieved ignition, your striker hit is practically dead center where as the one that failed is quite a bit off center, which makes me wonder if the slide isn’t fully in battery. Which could be caused by a faulty recoil spring, poor shooting grip, maybe even the added weight to the slide.
 
Have you disassembled the gun? I already had a problem like that when I put back my first G17 with the slide lock (the disassembly lever, not the slide stop) backward. The gun won't go fully in battery. Like FoxAlpha said, the striker must be dry, but on an original, new gun, I doubt lubing can cause light strike, except maybe in sub zero temperature.

Does it happened only on the first round? maybe you are "easing" the slide in battery? you must absolutely let it slam shut. Also check your hand position and make sure your thumbs aren't riding the slide, it can cause a failure to load.
 
The Glock is popular in Mexico and the primers of the non-export Aguila factory ammo are often very hard. We had problems like this (and in fact, in a case of Hollywood getting it right, the problem was mentioned in the movie "Man on Fire"). There are super power red and blue springs out there that are real thwackers, above the striking power of a regular "extra power" Glock spring. In all the cases with our Glocks in Mexico, these springs solved the problem.

I think we got them from Rockyourglock.com and I think the one that is the most powerful is the blue 31 Newton spring. They cost about 10.00 bucks.
 
It has never happened on the first round to my recollection. It isn't poor grip, at least I doubt it. I've been shooting pistols since 2006 and never encountered an issue like this before. But this is my first plastic gun. If it was poor grip you would think it would happen more consistently with all ammo types and not be more pronounced with certain brands like it has been?

I haven't disassembled anything other than following the cleaning procedure and installed the red dot.

If the slide isn't in full battery it isn't out by an amount noticeable to me after a quick glance while clearing the round that failed to fire. I will have to take a much closer look next range trip.
 
It has never happened on the first round to my recollection. It isn't poor grip, at least I doubt it. I've been shooting pistols since 2006 and never encountered an issue like this before. But this is my first plastic gun. If it was poor grip you would think it would happen more consistently with all ammo types and not be more pronounced with certain brands like it has been?

I haven't disassembled anything other than following the cleaning procedure and installed the red dot.

If the slide isn't in full battery it isn't out by an amount noticeable to me after a quick glance while clearing the round that failed to fire. I will have to take a much closer look next range trip.

Limp wristing or mags wont cause the issue of light primer strikes. Take out the striker and inspect and clean out the striker channel.
 
As previously mentioned, remove the striker assembly and clean the channel/assembly. Also, while the striker is removed take pictures and post them so we can take a look.

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Pull off the red dot, and see if that helps. Just a quick test to see if the extra mass of the RDS is causing problems.

...and stop cleaning it so often. Kids these days. lol!
 
Did a google search and it seems that the off centred light primer strikes is caused by your gun not being in battery. Most said to check the recoil spring assembly, extractor and your slide stop.
 
But I love cleaning it lol



One end of the recoil spring is wonky... it doesn’t look too bad in the picture because of the shadows but it’s definitely kinda ####ed up. Related?

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High primer strike is an out of battery issue. I used to see it on occasion with weak wrist shooters and Glock 27's (not saying you are ��). Clear the pistol, hold at a 45 degree angle and retract the slide about 5mm and release. The slide should go fully into battery every time. If it doesn't you likely have a recoil spring issue and should replace it. Also the advice to remove the optic is solid. Return the gun to stock and start to eliminate variables. Looking at that RSA though, I think replacing it would be my first option.
 
High primer strike is an out of battery issue. I used to see it on occasion with weak wrist shooters and Glock 27's (not saying you are ��). Clear the pistol, hold at a 45 degree angle and retract the slide about 5mm and release. The slide should go fully into battery every time. If it doesn't you likely have a recoil spring issue and should replace it. Also the advice to remove the optic is solid. Return the gun to stock and start to eliminate variables. Looking at that RSA though, I think replacing it would be my first option.

I have no issues with .357 Sig out of a P229, 10mm in a Dan Wesson 1911 or any trouble shooting magnum revolvers all afternoon.

The Shield RMS on this gun is 17.5g.
The Trijicon RMR is 34g and the Vortex Venom is 31g. I see Trijicon RMRs on Glock MOS pistols all the time, if those guys have no issues I can't see my Shield optic being an issue?

It's gotta be the recoil spring assembly or the SilencerCo barrel. I've seen a few posts today from US shooters regarding guns failing to go back into battery every time with SilencerCo barrels.

I agree, I will start with replacing the recoil spring assembly since it looks sketchy anyway. Hopefully that's it. If not, I bet it's the SilencerCo barrel. The G19 Canadian Edition was announced a couple months after I imported this through IRG, too. If I would have waited I'd have a factory glock barrel. Damn.
 
Let's hope the rsa fixes the issue. Looking at the photos I wonder if the barrel caused the damage to your current rsa. I haven't seen that type of damage before and I've been maintaining a lot of gen4 Glocks from a lot of users for years. It should be evident soon after u replace it. Let us know how it works out.
 
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