G20 Ejector
- Thread starter Slavex
- Start date
Now THAT'S funny...that's exactly what mine looked like before I tried to tweak it back a little straighter.
Now it looks a little straighter, and a LOT shorter.
Interestingly I have my G20 disassembled now, and with nothing in the frame except the locking block, it still jams open at full recoil.
Now it looks a little straighter, and a LOT shorter.
Interestingly I have my G20 disassembled now, and with nothing in the frame except the locking block, it still jams open at full recoil.
Yeah, it was a little gimped I guess...but the main thing is it wasn't the cause of my issues - which come to think of it should have been obvious.
After all, when the slide is locked back, there is nothing touching the ejector at all!
Haven't figured out the issue yet but I did notice an issue which I will try to explain using bearkilr's photos in just a minute here.
Incidentally thanks for those pics - getting a look at a FUNCTIONING glock 20 is proving to be pretty useful just now!
After all, when the slide is locked back, there is nothing touching the ejector at all!
Haven't figured out the issue yet but I did notice an issue which I will try to explain using bearkilr's photos in just a minute here.
Incidentally thanks for those pics - getting a look at a FUNCTIONING glock 20 is proving to be pretty useful just now!
I have circled a tab on the frame of this gun. On this gun it's in good shape...on mine a little chewed up. Nothing serious, but a) it sticks up above the locking block a little (although the locking block is tight and therefore has not worked its way down in the frame relative to the tab) and b) the surface has gotten beaten on enough that there is a little edge of plastic sticking off which MIGHT wedge the barrel against the locking block somehow, I guess.
I guess I'll trim it down a little and smooth it out and see if that fixes the problem.
Well, trimmed it down a tiny bit just to get rid of the little "burr" that had formed...no dice. Still jamming open.
)Good suggestion - but it does the same even when cycled by hand, with the recoil spring/guide rod assembly out of the gun!
Well, I am right handed...
I am grateful to have well over 20,000 rounds through mine with no issues beyond replacing the recoil spring. FWIW My REALLY hot 10mm loads would cause my gun to lock open once or twice a mag... I don't use those loads anymore.
When you say everything is out of the frame but the locking block - you mean "everything"... no trigger housing, slide stop lever, springs, pins, Slide lock assembly, etc?
If so, you should be able to lay the grip frame upside down on a flat surface, and see if there are any anomalies in the four rails... one higher than the other etc... I've seen where the rails on one G22 pistol were almost pulled out of the frame... user error...
If so, you should be able to lay the grip frame upside down on a flat surface, and see if there are any anomalies in the four rails... one higher than the other etc... I've seen where the rails on one G22 pistol were almost pulled out of the frame... user error...
Yes, everything...as per your suggestion I just now went and laid the gun upside down on a glass plate that is flat to within a ten thou...there is definitely nothing obvious wrong with the rails. One is very, very slightly lower than the others but I would bet big money that it's well within tolerances.
Oh, problem solved...apparently the barrel is ringed. Well, these things happen.
I had lent the gun out to someone and they had a squib (my fault, my reloads) and didn't notice. The barrel is now dead.
yeah, that sounds about right. It's very subtle and hardly visible from the outside, but the inside is easier to tell. The rifling disappears about an inch and a half from the chamber, for about a half inch.
