Getting into PRS - Tikka CTR 6.5CM vs Varmint in MDT XRS?

Dj2k

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Hey everyone, I’m planning to get into PRS and I recently grabbed an MDT XRS chassis on the Black Friday sale. My original plan was to pair it with a 6.5CM Tikka CTR, but for the life of me I can’t find a 24" barrel CTR anywhere - only 20".

Cabela’s had that special‑edition 6.5CM with a 24", but it’s not even listed anymore.

So I’m looking at Option B: using a Tikka Varmint 24" and dropping it into the XRS. From what I understand, it should fit the chassis and run AICS 10‑round mags without issues.

Anyone here run a varmint action/barrel in the XRS for PRS? Worth doing - or should I keep chasing a proper 24" CTR?

Also - I’m thinking about optics: is a Vortex Strike Eagle 5‑25×56 FFP a good scope to start with for PRS? Any other scope recommendations?

For extra context, I’m in Alberta, so availability here is a bit limited.

Appreciate any advice or experience you can share. Thanks!
 
Another option is:

- Find a used Tikka T3x rifle on here for cheap.
- Buy an IBI Stainless Blank in the Contour you’d like for $550. (I’d recommend minimum MTU for PRS)
- Get a smith to spin it up for you.

You may be able to make this all happen for a bit under $2k and have a way better system for the sport. It’ll balance easier on props and be a very accurate platform.
 
Looks like I’ll just grab the 20" CTR and start practicing instead of chasing a unicorn 24". Once I get some trigger time and get comfortable in PRS, next step will probably be an IBI Viking barrel in 6mm GT and build off the same action/trigger.

Do you think the 20" barrel will really be a big deal for a beginner, or is it fine to just start with this?

Thanks again for the support and advice, really helpful!
 
Looks like I’ll just grab the 20" CTR and start practicing instead of chasing a unicorn 24". Once I get some trigger time and get comfortable in PRS, next step will probably be an IBI Viking barrel in 6mm GT and build off the same action/trigger.

Do you think the 20" barrel will really be a big deal for a beginner, or is it fine to just start with this?

Thanks again for the support and advice, really helpful!
Where are you located?

I am in about the same point in the PRS lifecycle as you. I went a different route with my rifle starting point, but if you wanna bounce ideas off each other, I am happy for all the knowledge and advice we can pool together.
 
Where are you located?

I am in about the same point in the PRS lifecycle as you. I went a different route with my rifle starting point, but if you wanna bounce ideas off each other, I am happy for all the knowledge and advice we can pool together.
Edmonton, AB. I'll shoot you a text. Thanks.
 
Looks like I’ll just grab the 20" CTR and start practicing instead of chasing a unicorn 24". Once I get some trigger time and get comfortable in PRS, next step will probably be an IBI Viking barrel in 6mm GT and build off the same action/trigger.

Do you think the 20" barrel will really be a big deal for a beginner, or is it fine to just start with this?

Thanks again for the support and advice, really helpful!

This is the same setup I use almost, CTR with a 26” ibi MTU chambered in 6gt.

It’s served me well and won me some prizes and swag. I wouldn’t change a thing. A very cool and capable cartridge that’s easy to load for.
 
I started with a Tikka CTR 24” in a KRG Bravo with Vortex Strike Eagle. I ran it for 2 seasons of SAPRL matches and brought it back out for a NRL Hunter match. It comes threaded 5/8-24 for a muzzle brake so that was nice. It was about 16lb setup with the bipod attached and forend weights installed. Just know that Tikka barrels hammer but are a bit slow. After it broke in I was seeing 2680 fps with a 140gr bullet and H4350. It is plenty efficient enough, but a bit slow. Just know a 20” barrel will be even slower.
I’ve got about 2800rds on it and it still shoots well.
Do the Tikka varmints come with the muzzle threaded from factory? You will want to run a brake for sure for PRS.
The Tikka action is solid and as others have suggested you could have a gunsmith pull the barrel and get an IBI in an MTU contour installed at 26”. It will balance a bit better. I found that I had to always have a bipod attached to have the CTR balance on a prop which can pose issues on some props when moving in and out.
 
Do you think the 20" barrel will really be a big deal for a beginner, or is it fine to just start with this?
depends which feature of a 24" you are looking for?
higher velocity? forward balance? reduced muzzle blast? minor points
20" has the advantage around obstructions. run the 20 then switch to 24 and you'll be hitting things )
 
I started with a Tikka CTR 24” in a KRG Bravo with Vortex Strike Eagle. I ran it for 2 seasons of SAPRL matches and brought it back out for a NRL Hunter match. It comes threaded 5/8-24 for a muzzle brake so that was nice. It was about 16lb setup with the bipod attached and forend weights installed. Just know that Tikka barrels hammer but are a bit slow. After it broke in I was seeing 2680 fps with a 140gr bullet and H4350. It is plenty efficient enough, but a bit slow. Just know a 20” barrel will be even slower.
I’ve got about 2800rds on it and it still shoots well.
Do the Tikka varmints come with the muzzle threaded from factory? You will want to run a brake for sure for PRS.
The Tikka action is solid and as others have suggested you could have a gunsmith pull the barrel and get an IBI in an MTU contour installed at 26”. It will balance a bit better. I found that I had to always have a bipod attached to have the CTR balance on a prop which can pose issues on some props when moving in and out.
I believe this will be the ultimate route, I will start with a 20" get some practice and upgrade into a 24" ibi.
Vortex strike eagle will be my first choice for scope.
Unfortunately Varmints do not come threaded for a break unlike the ctr.

Is the ctr break good enough for a start? And for an xrs chassis with the added forend, what starter bipod you recommend and how much weight would I need to add?

Thank you again for the support.
 
I believe this will be the ultimate route, I will start with a 20" get some practice and upgrade into a 24" ibi.
Vortex strike eagle will be my first choice for scope.
Unfortunately Varmints do not come threaded for a break unlike the ctr.

Is the ctr break good enough for a start? And for an xrs chassis with the added forend, what starter bipod you recommend and how much weight would I need to add?

Thank you again for the support.

I am also new to PRS, but I have a couple centrefire matches behind me and a bunch of rimfire.

The XRS is a solid choice, that is what I am using for centrefire. I have an ACC G2 for rimfire and the XRS stacks up well against that. I shoot a Howa 24", but a 20" would be fine. I balance an inch in front of the forend with one set of weights, a big muzzle brake, and the enclosed forend. With the 20" you will want to add a bunch of weight to the front, so I would suggest the enclosed forend and a couple sets of external weights. Maybe the internal weight as well - but you should be able to make it balance really well. Would not worry at all about the decreased speed of a shorter barrel - a balanced rifle and practice building solid positions does more for me than anything else.

The MDT Ground Pod is fine and what I have used for every match. Works great... that being said, I just got a Cyke pod on sale from MDT (ends today) and that is the most common one you see at matches.

See you out there!
 
Looks like I’ll just grab the 20" CTR and start practicing instead of chasing a unicorn 24". Once I get some trigger time and get comfortable in PRS, next step will probably be an IBI Viking barrel in 6mm GT and build off the same action/trigger.

Do you think the 20" barrel will really be a big deal for a beginner, or is it fine to just start with this?

Thanks again for the support and advice, really helpful!

If you're starting out on your long range precision rifle journey you couldn't buy a more capable rifle than a 20" CTR in 6.5 creedmoor. As you use it you will come to appreciate and love it, each time continuing to impress you until the idea of rebarreling it prematurely and switching to another cartridge will become a fleeting idea. Shot by shot and step by step your confidence in your rig will grow to the point you will be outshooting your ammunition. At which point its time to start loading your own ammo or picking away at mechanical upgrades to give you the edge.

A stock tikka barreled action transplanted in a chassis are capable of printing groups from 0.2 moa to 0.4 moa consistently with good factory ammunition. I've made repeatable hits at over 1.3 Km with mine. I am at the point where I am outshooting alot of factory ammunition and I need to move to loading my own for quality controls sake. My best advice is don't worry about replacing the tikka barrel with an IBI. Shoot that barrel out first, and once you do decide to rebarrel I'd suggest picking something of a higher pedigree than an IBI. To me an IBI is not an upgrade to a tikka barrel, at best its a lateral move. I would never replace a tikka pipe when I am constantly impressed by the accuracy of my rifle, and if I did I'd be looking at a bartlein or proof . IBI wouldn't even make my top 5.

It would benefit you to save that money on rebarreling prematurely and spend that money on better glass. A strike eagle will suffice, but there are better options out there. Every nickel you spend on a scope is a dime in accuracy. For a bipod, MDT ckye pods are great, I have an atlas PRS, accutacs are also excellent too.
 
I just pulled the trigger on a 20inch ctr. Should be a good starting point, practice and reload.
I got the xrs with the forend attachment. I will look up some weights and go from there. What scope are you running for prs?
 
If you're starting out on your long range precision rifle journey you couldn't buy a more capable rifle than a 20" CTR in 6.5 creedmoor. As you use it you will come to appreciate and love it, each time continuing to impress you until the idea of rebarreling it prematurely and switching to another cartridge will become a fleeting idea. Shot by shot and step by step your confidence in your rig will grow to the point you will be outshooting your ammunition. At which point its time to start loading your own ammo or picking away at mechanical upgrades to give you the edge.

A stock tikka barreled action transplanted in a chassis are capable of printing groups from 0.2 moa to 0.4 moa consistently with good factory ammunition. I've made repeatable hits at over 1.3 Km with mine. I am at the point where I am outshooting alot of factory ammunition and I need to move to loading my own for quality controls sake. My best advice is don't worry about replacing the tikka barrel with an IBI. Shoot that barrel out first, and once you do decide to rebarrel I'd suggest picking something of a higher pedigree than an IBI. To me an IBI is not an upgrade to a tikka barrel, at best its a lateral move. I would never replace a tikka pipe when I am constantly impressed by the accuracy of my rifle, and if I did I'd be looking at a bartlein or proof . IBI wouldn't even make my top 5.

It would benefit you to save that money on rebarreling prematurely and spend that money on better glass. A strike eagle will suffice, but there are better options out there. Every nickel you spend on a scope is a dime in accuracy. For a bipod, MDT ckye pods are great, I have an atlas PRS, accutacs are also excellent too.
Loved all of that, greatly appreciated.

I already reload my own ammo and will be experimenting with loads as I progress.

Next item is glass. Any alternative for the strike eagle you recommend?

Thank you again.
 
I just pulled the trigger on a 20inch ctr. Should be a good starting point, practice and reload.
I got the xrs with the forend attachment. I will look up some weights and go from there. What scope are you running for prs

I run an Arken EP5 on my Rimfire and a Bushnell Match Pro on my Centrefire, both are great for the money and get the job done for the 500m matches I have shot... (prefer the Match Pro) but sounds like you are looking at higher tiered scopes than what I use, but I never miss because of my scope, haha! That being said, when I look through a Razor, Nightforce, Swaro, ZCO, etc... the clarity is night and day to my more modest scopes and I would buy a nicer scope if I had the cash.
 
If rebarrelling in the future I would recommend a 26” over 24”. It’s “free” weight and will help balance the rifle better.

In centrefire competitions I’ve never found having a 24” or 26” makes it any easier navigating props. That’s in PRS Pro matches and NRL Hunter. We’re all even throwing massive brakes on the rigs to mitigate recoil so those barrels are even longer.

What is your budget for glass? Since your talking strike eagle territory I’d recommend:

- DNT Optics “The One” 7-35x56. An upgrade to the Arken with a waaaaayy better reticle.

- Bushnell Match Pro ED. Solid scope for the money.

Now if you’re looking at a higher level of glass I can help with that as well. Handled and owned just about all of em from Gen 3 razor, Nightforce, Kahles, ZCO, Tangent, Leupold and March.

You’re going down a fun road. Enjoy the ride!

Also, if you’re from the Edmonton area I’d recommend looking into the Southern Alberta Precision Rifle League or SAPRL for short on Facebook. We host PRS Pro Series (100+ competitors), Regional Series (50 - 80 competitors) and Rimfire matches just outside of Medicine Hat on private land.
 
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I had a Varmint 6.5CM and recently dropped it in a XRS Chassis bought on Black Friday.

it will be hard to find a CTR in 24in in Canada. There are few in special edition ( camo stock ) however the price will be higher than a Varmint 24in. One of the guys in my local range imported a CTR 24in from US. After hearing the shipping cost and service, I am glad that I bought my Varmint and all I need is bringing it to a gunsmith for muzzle threading . 20" should serve you well enough

Bass Pro has Bushnell MPED for $100 off now.
 
If rebarrelling in the future I would recommend a 26” over 24”. It’s “free” weight and will help balance the rifle better.

In centrefire competitions I’ve never found having a 24” or 26” makes it any easier navigating props. That’s in PRS Pro matches and NRL Hunter. We’re all even throwing massive brakes on the rigs to mitigate recoil so those barrels are even longer.

What is your budget for glass? Since your talking strike eagle territory I’d recommend:

- DNT Optics “The One” 7-35x56. An upgrade to the Arken with a waaaaayy better reticle.

- Bushnell Match Pro ED. Solid scope for the money.

Now if you’re looking at a higher level of glass I can help with that as well. Handled and owned just about all of em from Gen 3 razor, Nightforce, Kahles, ZCO, Tangent, Leupold and March.

You’re going down a fun road. Enjoy the ride!

Also, if you’re from the Edmonton area I’d recommend looking into the Southern Alberta Precision Rifle League or SAPRL for short on Facebook. We host PRS Pro Series (100+ competitors), Regional Series (50 - 80 competitors) and Rimfire matches just outside of Medicine Hat on private land.
Thanks again Tyler.

The Strike Eagle is running close to $1,300 CAD, so that’s probably my target. The DNT and Bushnell are around $900, which isn’t bad, but if I can find something nicer in good used condition, I’d be open to that too.

Yeah, I follow SAPRL we have some competitions at our CHAPRL and I’m planning to start there next season. Hopefully I’ll make it down south too and check out some of the bigger matches.

Really excited to get into this and start dialing in my setup!
 
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