So did redoing the bedding job solve the issues ? I only ask because I bought a CIL 180 off the exchange last year and it came with pillars and a bedding job done by a previous owner and it is having very similar accuracy issues. I've tried different scopes and 10 different types of ammo and nothing helps. My next step was to get it professionally re-crowned but I think i'll try checking the action for tension first. I've never bedded a rifle before so it might be a good time to learn. Anyway, sorry to hijack your thread but I truly am curious to see how yours turns out.
I've read the original post, and yours, but nothing in between. Not sure if the issue was solved. I believe the major mistake the OP made was using the action screws (significantly tightened to boot) to torque down the action. The correct way is to use electrician's tape. The objective is do a stress free bedding, and the OP's method would have introduced major stress in the action. I also find it very surprising that the rifle does not have a recoil lug, if it is a high quality gun like an Anschutz. If it has no recoil lug what prevents it from moving in axial direction besides torque in the action screws. Normal practice is to bed the back side of the recoil lug, but not the front. Here is a good procedure to follow:
Stress Free Pillar Bedding
On your issue you might want to consider roughing out a minimal amount of the existing bedding and exposing the pillars if they are not exposed now and then rebedding it. I think the Devcon Plastic Steel Putty is the best initial bedding material. It is very viscous and strong when it sets up. However, if you are rebedding and only adding a thinner layer, I might be tempted to use something much thinner in viscosity, like JB Weld for example. Don't get the quick setting type, or you will never make it.
Thanks for the advice Ron! I still have to check if the existing bedding job is stressing the action like the OP's, but I suspect it is. If I grind a small amount of the existing bedding compound and add new compound would there be a problem with the layers properly bonding to each other?
Well, it doesn't even need much force. As long as you get it seated to the location you want it, and it doesn't move, it is fine. Really cranking it down, with screws or tape or anything else, is what can introduce stress. All that's required is ensuring it is in the right location and it doesn't move until cured. Obviously tape wouldn't torque on it like screws would, and it wouldn't be as critical when it is tape, but less is more.![]()
Well, it doesn't even need much force. As long as you get it seated to the location you want it, and it doesn't move, it is fine. Really cranking it down, with screws or tape or anything else, is what can introduce stress. All that's required is ensuring it is in the right location and it doesn't move until cured. Obviously tape wouldn't torque on it like screws would, and it wouldn't be as critical when it is tape, but less is more.![]()
I know. I did my CZ 453 Varmint and my Anschutz 1712 with the stuff. Goop a bunch of it everywhere, and push the action down into the stock until it is in the right location. All the excess oozes out and then you put a bit of tape on there to hold it in place. Then clean the excess off and let it cure. Once it is located, put a bit of tape on just to make sure things don't move. And that doesn't require a lot of tape, or a lot of cinching down, either. You should've already pushed it into place by hand by then. If you're really cinching it down with tape, that's possible stress on the action right there.Devcon Plastic Steel Putty is very viscous. Putty is a good description. It does not run or even flow well like other standard epoxy or fiberglass resin mixes. You do need a reasonable amount of force, well distributed down the action to make it flow and fit all of the action. If you have one issue with using it, it will likely be voids where you didn't get it to flow in. I think the secret is to distribute the tape well.
When I bedded my 455 I used surgical tube to hold the action in place, plus threaded the action screws in hand tight for alignment purposes.
I left two narrow supporting bands of wood, one at the front of the action, one at the rear, and ground out any other contact areas to give roughly 1/8 inch clearance for the Devcon.
The original plan was to Dremel out the wood support bands once the epoxy had set up, then refill with more Devcon in the second step, but it shot well enough that I didn't bother. If it ain't broke..etc.
I have a couple minor voids that I planned to touch up too, but it's not worth doing. It IS possible to make it worse, I'd rather not take that chance for no good reason.
Vortex.....change the scope and try it again..
Come on...
Yes, as above. Hold your hand around the barrel and stock as you slacken the tang screw. Feel any barrel movement? Then try same thing with action screw.
You made a mistake by bedding the rifle with tight screws. This bent the action as it set on an uneven surface.
Roughen up the bedding material with rough sandpaper and paint in a this coat of material, and tighten the screw(s) enough to orient the action, but not to bend it down.
next time you bed, leave a little of the original stock material under the screw and for and aft, to keep the action oriented and at the correct height.
I know. I did my CZ 453 Varmint and my Anschutz 1712 with the stuff. Goop a bunch of it everywhere, and push the action down into the stock until it is in the right location. All the excess oozes out and then you put a bit of tape on there to hold it in place. Then clean the excess off and let it cure. Once it is located, put a bit of tape on just to make sure things don't move. And that doesn't require a lot of tape, or a lot of cinching down, either. You should've already pushed it into place by hand by then. If you're really cinching it down with tape, that's possible stress on the action right there.