Wow thanks for taking the time to respond with such helpful posts! I can see I'm only just scratching the surface of this new to me world. Couldn't be more excited. So many different makers styles and configurations and so much history as well.
Ashcroft I am scheduled to work the kamloops gun show but I hope to get a day off to attend. You mentioned that to be able to buy British guns intelligently a person needs to know how to evaluate these guns. Are there any pointers on this? General things to look for? I would assume a tight lockup, decent wood condition, top lever positioning, apparent bore condition, and overal finish would be a start?
Appreciate all the comments so far.
These are definitely main start points on any gun. I generally bring a pair of snap caps to any show or store so I can test trigger pulls and ejectors; if the gun has them.
The main points to look for on SxS's specifically are:
1. Top lever positioning. Preferably right of centre but left is not the end of the world, it can be tightened up fairly easily with someone with know-how.
2. Ribs. Check the ribs to see if they are loose. This is a large job to have them fixed and required soldering and refinishing of the barrels. To check this, a visial inspection for gaps, followed by hanging the barrels by the underlug on your finger and tapping the outside of the barrels with a metal object. Good barrels will ring, bad ones will clunk. Midway USA has a good video on this on youtube, just search "how to check barrel ribs Midway usa"
3. Action tightness. With the forend off and the action closed, do the barrels wiggle side to side or up and down? This can be fixed if you really want to but its a process for sure. NOTE; keep an eye out for people slipping in shims or business card peices in the action to tighten it. Some people do this to tighten it up for the unsespecting buyer. This is why I ALWAYS disassemble the gunn before I test most things.
4. Matching serial numbers
5. Sidelock vs boxlock. Believe it or not, you can indeed buy budget sidelocks, if that is more of your taste.
6. Automatic safety vs manual vs none at all.
7. Rib style.
8. Cracks in the stock.
9. Chips from the stock/forend.
10. Forend style and forend looseness. Also check the way it is attached, or by what mechanism.
11. Dents in the barrels.
12. Bore condition and chokes.
13. Ejectors vs extractors, ejectors will bring a premium over the same gun with extractors, but can also be a point of trouble if worked on by Bubba in the past.
14. Barrel length. This is mostly personal preference, I like 30" barrels. I am not a big guy (5' 9") and I love how they swing.
15. BARREL MATERIAL. BIIIIGGGG concern here. Do you want the beauty and hassle of a damascus gun? They usually go for much much MUCH cheaper that steel guns at shows, just because of all the paranoia around them. With dealers...Not so much, since most know what they have. My recommendation: Get a steel gun first before you decide to dive into damascus; you need to know what to look for when inspecting a damascus gun. Just avoid them...for now
16. Chamber length. This is another biggie. You probably just want to be able to grab a box of target loads to the shelf and head to the range, so 2 1/2" 12 gauge is hard to find (I am assuming you want a 12). Get a gun with 2 3/4" chambers. But be careful. In North America, many short chambered guns were lengthened, barrel wall thickness could be a problem in a really dainty gun. Check the proofs. If it says 1 1/8 oz or less, it was probably a 2 1/2" gun. More than this and it is almost 100% a 2 3/4" gun or longer. Also, look for stretched out forcing cones. Normal ones will be only about 1/2"-1" long. If they are longer (2-3") they were lengthened to accommodate longer shells. This all leads nicely into the next point:
17. Gun weight. Smaller chambered guns will be lighter than larger chambered ones. Not a big deal, just keep that in mind. Also corresponds with heavier proof loads.
18. Gun fit to you is a MAJOR point. If it doesn't fit, it can be $$$ to alter the fit to your dimensions.
19. Point 18 has an important anecdote which deals with SPECIFICALLY English guns. It is not uncommon for these guns to have altered stocks. This is normal practice in England. It doesn't really detract in value toooooo much unless the recoil pad is just too damn ugly to live with
20. Condition of checkering. This is a good indicator of how much the gun has been used in its life, or at least how much it has been carried.
Once you deal with all of this stuff, the rest is just picky stuff to look out for depending on what you want.
- drop points
- checkering patterns
- Side clips
- Engraving styles
- Buttplate style
- grip styles
These (and many more) things are just personal preference and you will see some guns within your price range have certain features that others don't. That is the wonder of the English gun. No matter the manufature, you could almost assuredly find a gun they made that has similar features to the highest end guns. The difference comes in the attention to detail.
Like what's been said before, do your research under different brands. Ask questions (PM me if you have any