im gonna find directions to make one just because im curious of the crap thats gonna come out, haha. is this something i can do in the house or will it smell like im smelting something in the basement and attract the attention of my wife?
gotta vent a little, just wont come clean
- Thread starter uchi
- Start date
I find it does just because it doesn't cost anything once you've got the charger, and I've got several old ones laying around the house, and if you find a family that's had any cell phones for a while, an outdated one will be lurking around somewhere. After that you just need a fluid for the bore and a metal rod and you're in business. My whole setup consists of: 1 cell phone charger, electrical tape to hold the stripped ends on, one strait metal rod with electrical tape spacers wrapped at intervals down the length, and several sizes of rubber erasers to block the chamber and hold fluid. It was made out of stuff laying around the house. I usually either run it outside or in a rubber made container because you will always spill, and it will froth/bubble over in the process of working, so it's good to have something catching it.... plus the rubbermade can keep it standing upright.
Polarity is definitely important, otherwise you're using the current to plate that sh*t onto the bore stronger!!!
I considered the battery system, but with a wall charger you can run as much as you want without worrying about running out of batteries etc. If I wanted a setup for charging away from power sources I might go that route, but usually I only do my work in shops, so a bit of a dead end for me at the moment.
Mmmm - won't smell like much, if anything. I use ammonia in the fluid in the barrel, so it'll smell a bit like that, since it froths a little, but not much else. I've seen soapy water used too, but the barrel wasn't super dirty, so it didn't really show what, if any impact the different fluid had.
One note, I find 3-4 volts are about optimal. You could use more, but you'll risk both shocking yourself and messing up your barrel. Too much voltage can theoretically strip too much metal too fast, whereas a low voltage may only loosen the gunk and fouling, and while still requiring a single or double pass with the brush, not destroy your rifling if accidentally left on too long.
ghostntheshell
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- GTA ONTARIO
Hey there. Just read through your thread.
I ran into a problem quite similar to yours awhile back with an old M44 barrel that I declared "pooched". A breif history: I fired corrosive ammo through it for years (before I even knew what corrosive ammo was). I would only clean with hoppes and then oil. This seemed to work well enough - until I stopped shooting for a few years.
The barrel looked as you described - and included rust.
Long story short, some hoppes 9 and foaming bore cleaner over-night, and the barrel was unobstructed but blacker than satans heart. No matter how many patches I ran through it - it still came out black.
I have since fired a good number of rounds down the pipe.
It is still accurate - but not as accurate as it was. The barrel looks a lot better now that rounds have been through it.
I ran into a problem quite similar to yours awhile back with an old M44 barrel that I declared "pooched". A breif history: I fired corrosive ammo through it for years (before I even knew what corrosive ammo was). I would only clean with hoppes and then oil. This seemed to work well enough - until I stopped shooting for a few years.
The barrel looked as you described - and included rust.
Long story short, some hoppes 9 and foaming bore cleaner over-night, and the barrel was unobstructed but blacker than satans heart. No matter how many patches I ran through it - it still came out black.
I have since fired a good number of rounds down the pipe.
It is still accurate - but not as accurate as it was. The barrel looks a lot better now that rounds have been through it.
so i used some outters crud cutter, bore cleaner, and some brake cleaner and my patches are coming through clean now. theres still darkness in the bore but i see a little bit of shinyness as well. scrubber the nuts off it today and the patches come out clean. so i may just shoot it and see if itll free the rest of the gunk out and if not ill try the ammonia or a foaming over night bore cleaner. thanks for all the help and advice guys. very much appreciated
i coudlnt find the break free stuff for a decent price online, 12 bucks for a 3 ounce can, so i didn some reading and ordered 2 12 ounce bottles of gunslick for the price of one break free 3 ounce, figured if im paying for shipping might aswell get two bottles. did some reading here and through google and it seems like good stuff. figure ill see if it works here and my remington r700 has some copper fouling i cant get out so this will get used on a couple guns 
a little update for you guys. took her to the range today. picke dup a box of cheap ammo jus tto blow throw the tube. the two guys i came with walked away when i loaded her, i guess they were expecting something, haha. so i lined it up down range, closed my eyes, turned away and pulled the trigger to make it go bang. and it did. then i put a couple more through and she stopped firing, the sear fell out of place and started causing me issues, so i fired off several more by hand loading them into the gun. put through 6 or 7 rounds today maybe. got home and cleaned it a few hours later. looks like the rifling has started to turn shiny., just a little bit down the center has started to shine up. maybe theres hope for the old girl after all. im pretty sure i got her fixed up so next time out ill put a box or so through it and hit it with that bore foam once it arrives and see what kind of results i get.
All the gunnputzers have given suggestions for pretty near all the cleaners on the market.
Buy them all and use them all -
OR - use the ones that work in your application.
A very badly corroded bore benefits from shooting with various size lead bullets and varying degrees of valve grinding paste in succession.
A badly corroded bore benefits from Flitz, Chrompoli or Simichrome.
Less corroded benefits with J.B bore paste (grey not red).
This will take out the positive pits but not the negative ones. For those to stop getting deeper use lots of Kroil.
All the gunnputzers have given suggestions for pretty near all the cleaners on the market.
Buy them all and use them all -
OR - use the ones that work in your application.
A very badly corroded bore benefits from shooting with various size lead bullets and varying degrees of valve grinding paste in succession.
A badly corroded bore benefits from Flitz, Chrompoli or Simichrome.
Less corroded benefits with J.B bore paste (grey not red).
This will take out the positive pits but not the negative ones. For those to stop getting deeper use lots of Kroil.
thanks for the help and the names, i found shooting the gun has cleaned it up a little as several guys said it would, i ordered some bore foam last week, waiting on two cans of it to show up, ill try that and see what it looks like and take things from there. if it gets rid of most of the stuff i may get some paste and see if that will finish it off. but for that i need to see how it looks once i put a box through her and do the foam bore cleaner. thanks again everyone for the help.
try removing all the fore end wood
then without burning yourself pour boiling water through
the barrel from the breech while holding it over the bath tub.
clean up the mess before your wife gets home.
haha i thought about that, but im walking with crutches right now due to a broken leg and im not sure how to get it to the bathroom without kicking it across the floor. lol. i tried to pull the wood off today, its been sporterised unfortunately and after un screwing all the screws i could see it wouldnt come free. further investigating shows what looks like a little brass pin put through the wood infront of the strap at the rear of the gun where the butt stock and stock meet and the thing wouldnt come off.
to get the fore end off you have to take off the trigger gaurd,
and unscrew the forend retaining screw.
there should be no brass pin to remove.
you might have to tap it a bit to get it off
be carefull not to crack it, i cant see your rifle but sometimes
they have a brass pin to repair existing cracks.the boiling water really works.
and unscrew the forend retaining screw.
there should be no brass pin to remove.
you might have to tap it a bit to get it off
be carefull not to crack it, i cant see your rifle but sometimes
they have a brass pin to repair existing cracks.the boiling water really works.
i tried tapping, tried lightly prying, tried tapping some more, the front un did no problem and i was able to pull it away, trigger guard was off aswell. but it was attached somewhere in the rear. if i remember right mine is a n1 m3, theres definitely a little pin in there, ill snap a pic later on when i go back to the safe for some other stuff.
ok, i'll be home most of the day. i'll take one of mine apart for comparison
or i can lend you one so you can use 2 as crutches
Arloashean
CGN Regular
- Location
- People's Republic of Toronto
Try YouTube for vids on how to get the No1MkIII wood off - super useful and it does need to be done in a particular order.
I've recently had a dead bore too and the foam sure made it shiny - but still pitted.
Good luck with it.
I've recently had a dead bore too and the foam sure made it shiny - but still pitted.
Good luck with it.
